My fallkniven F1 experience + questions

What I use to make fires even in damp situations are rolls of newspaper about 5 inches long and about an inch across tied with twine and well soaked in melted candles or paraffin wax. I melt the wax in a sauce pan and using a pair of tongs dip in the rolls of newspaper until they are thoroughly soaked. Dry them after and put them in a ziplock bag and you're good to go. makes very nice firestarters.
 
freq18hz said:
What did I do to my knife?

I used it to baton through wood...

It was dark, I don't see how you could baton through wood and NOT scratch up the blade? Also, the thermorun dented more easily that I would think.

Also the fallkniven DOES have an exposed tang...does anyone on this thread actually own the knife?
Also: regarding fatwood, I had some that we found on the trail. It burned nicely, but nothing would keep burning.

I think Dag-Nabit was saying that the F1 has a microbevel, so why would I sharpen it the same way a person sharpens a full convex bark river?

-Freq
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Hi Freq,

Very cool story. :thumbup: It's great to hear you had a chance to try out your new knife, and that it came through for you.

The F1 tang protrudes through the butt of the thermorun handle, it is not exposed along the length of the handle where it would contact your hand. (The micarta handled F1 has exposed tang)

Also great to hear your lady is now interested in carrying a knife for a camp tool. :thumbup:

Fallkniven has other great knives that would work well for her, but as suggested, also look to Bark River or another manufacture for a knife for her. This way you both can switch off trying different knives to determine which ones you like best.

The Gunny, Bravo 1 or Canadian Camp II are a few BR knives that come to mind, but they have many that would make great camp knives.

Thanks for sharing your story with us.

Kevin

PS - Bark River Canadian Camp II is on the 2010 production run but won't be available for a while yet. This knife is designed as a camp knife, rather than from a military/survival platform.
 
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Well sure. I am a downed pilot, I'd baton because I'm not going to have a hatchet...I'm lucky if I have a gun.

Otherwise, I'm bringing bring a hatchet into the woods if I know I am going to make a fire. That's the part I don't get. You know you are going to make a fire. Again, I am doing a quick day hike and get chased deep deep into the woods by a bear, I'll baton.
 
This is a good point, like I said I am looking for a hatchet...


Does anyone have a good hatchet recommendation?


-Freq
 
Wetterlings....

Fit and finish isn't up to par against a Granfors. But then neither is the price.

100_1318.jpg


Mine is the 10" (1.25 lbs head), I like this size as it will fit in my bag easier. The larger sizes do offer better chopping performance without much weight gain. So if you have a larger pack,or don't mind strapping it to the outside of your pack, the 13",15" or even the 19" will do very,very well with camp chores.
 
Fiskars makes a nice one. Can't beat Gransfors. Eastwing makes a great one. All priced well. Handles of polymer, wood, and steel with either leather washers or rubber...respectively.
 
what do you guys think about a hatchet like the above, versus a larger knife, like the Fallkniven A2 ?

-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
what do you guys think about a hatchet like the above, versus a larger knife, like the Fallkniven A2 ?

-Freq
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A hatchet will out chop batoning with a knife. I have a Wetterlings like the one above, a Bark River Camp Axe, and a non-descript hardware store cheapy, any of them will do the job very well.

Going back to your original posts/requests you said you were looking for a lightweight capable knife to toss in your backpack in case if emergency. As HoosierQ put it; in case you get chased deep into the woods by bear while on a day hike.

You now have your F1 which you have proven is capable of doing what you wanted it for. Inconspicuously tucked away in your pack in case of emergency, not weighing you down and not taking up much space, while out for a hike.

If you are talking camping, and are OK with adding another 1.5 - 2.0 lbs to your carry weight (assuming back pack camping, not vehicle at a campsite) then a hatchet is definately another great tool to have along. Coupled up with your F1 or Izula and you are well equiped for camp chores.

It comes down to what activity you are planning, how much weight you are willing to carry, and how far you have to pack your gear.

I'm not going to weigh in on recommending one hatchet over another, as I stated above I have three and although there are differences in quality, I can't really say one chops wood any better than the other.

If you choose to add a hatchet, then find one that works for size, weight, and price, and go with it.

Kevin
 
freq18hz said:
Also the fallkniven DOES have an exposed tang...does anyone on this thread actually own the knife?

-Freq
Click to expand...
Yep, I've got 2, one in VG10 and one in 3G. I'm saving my pennies for the Pilot mod F1 in Micarta also...
 
Dag-nabit said:
A hatchet will out chop batoning with a knife. I have a Wetterlings like the one above, a Bark River Camp Axe, and a non-descript hardware store cheapy, any of them will do the job very well.

Going back to your original posts/requests you said you were looking for a lightweight capable knife to toss in your backpack in case if emergency. As HoosierQ put it; in case you get chased deep into the woods by bear while on a day hike.

You now have your F1 which you have proven is capable of doing what you wanted it for. Inconspicuously tucked away in your pack in case of emergency, not weighing you down and not taking up much space, while out for a hike.

If you are talking camping, and are OK with adding another 1.5 - 2.0 lbs to your carry weight (assuming back pack camping, not vehicle at a campsite) then a hatchet is definately another great tool to have along. Coupled up with your F1 or Izula and you are well equiped for camp chores.

It comes down to what activity you are planning, how much weight you are willing to carry, and how far you have to pack your gear.

I'm not going to weigh in on recommending one hatchet over another, as I stated above I have three and although there are differences in quality, I can't really say one chops wood any better than the other.

If you choose to add a hatchet, then find one that works for size, weight, and price, and go with it.

Kevin
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Thanks for the tips! =)

Regarding sharpening, you mentioned the mousepad method previously, and also the microbevel on the F1. Is it possible to get the edge back to a factory edge with the mousepad, or will that just fully convex it, and eliminate the microbevel?


-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
Thanks for the tips! =)

Regarding sharpening, you mentioned the mousepad method previously, and also the microbevel on the F1. Is it possible to get the edge back to a factory edge with the mousepad, or will that just fully convex it, and eliminate the microbevel?


-Freq
Click to expand...

If you use the mousepad/sandpaper method you will create a convex edge.

I know this may sound a bit confusing, but you can create a convex micro bevel. A "full" convex follows the same curvature from the spine all the way to the edge. Like the shape of a bullet.

A "convex micro bevel" is formed when you change the angle right near the edge and create a micro bevel, with rounded edges.

It is hard to describe, so here is a link with some good diagrams and explanations of full convex and micro convex. http://www.kosterknives.com/convexedge.htm

In reality if you freehand sharpen with a stone, you will still likely end up with a micro bevel that is convexed to some degree. This is because you can't hold your knife and stone at perfect angles as you move the blade along the stone. This "wiggle" action will create a rounded corner on the bevel.

If you want to maintain a true "flat" micro bevel you need to use some type of jig that will hold the knife edge and sharpening stone at a steady angle.

Hope the link helps explain it.

Kevin
 
singularity35 said:
What I use to make fires even in damp situations are rolls of newspaper about 5 inches long and about an inch across tied with twine and well soaked in melted candles or paraffin wax. I melt the wax in a sauce pan and using a pair of tongs dip in the rolls of newspaper until they are thoroughly soaked. Dry them after and put them in a ziplock bag and you're good to go. makes very nice firestarters.
Click to expand...

Yeah, to everyone that has mentioned tinder options etc:

Keep in mind, I had cotton balls and petroleum jelly with me. The problem wasn't getting the fire lit, it was keeping it lit. Had I been able to use dry wood, gather my own wood, or not build the fire inside a soaked firepit, it would have been much easier.

In the end the only way to get it to go, was to dry out the fire pit, and use my knife to get to dry wood.


-Freq
 
also, should my F1 look so 'used' after a single wood batoning session? Everyone else's pictures of their F1's on this site all look really nice and pristine...whereas mine is really scratched up, and the thermorun is chipped in a couple places near the hilt of the blade...

It looked so neat new...:(



-Freq
 
Dag-nabit said:
If you use the mousepad/sandpaper method you will create a convex edge.

I know this may sound a bit confusing, but you can create a convex micro bevel. A "full" convex follows the same curvature from the spine all the way to the edge. Like the shape of a bullet.

A "convex micro bevel" is formed when you change the angle right near the edge and create a micro bevel, with rounded edges.

It is hard to describe, so here is a link with some good diagrams and explanations of full convex and micro convex. http://www.kosterknives.com/convexedge.htm

In reality if you freehand sharpen with a stone, you will still likely end up with a micro bevel that is convexed to some degree. This is because you can't hold your knife and stone at perfect angles as you move the blade along the stone. This "wiggle" action will create a rounded corner on the bevel.

If you want to maintain a true "flat" micro bevel you need to use some type of jig that will hold the knife edge and sharpening stone at a steady angle.

Hope the link helps explain it.

Kevin
Click to expand...



Kevin: sorry to berate you, but basically, how can I restore the factory edge on my F1? It cut wood so incredibly well, I want it to cut like it did new...



-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
also, should my F1 look so 'used' after a single wood batoning session? Everyone else's pictures of their F1's on this site all look really nice and pristine...whereas mine is really scratched up, and the thermorun is chipped in a couple places near the hilt of the blade...

It looked so neat new...:(



-Freq
Click to expand...

Yes, those are character lines. :D

The reason my knives always look new is because I photograph them before they are used. Here is a couple pics of them after some use.

Fallkniven A2 after batoning
FallknivenA2-4.jpg


Fallkniven A2, RAT RC4, and Bark River Bravo 2 after batoning.
B2-A2-RC4.jpg


Kevin
 
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freq18hz said:
Kevin: sorry to berate you, but basically, how can I restore the factory edge on my F1? It cut wood so incredibly well, I want it to cut like it did new...



-Freq
Click to expand...

Don't think of it as berating. And please don't think of this as a snide remark, just a fact. "the only way to have a factory edge is from the factory" That's why it is called a factory edge.

When we (any of us) sharpens a blade we are going to change something about the edge characteristics, regardless of the method used. the change may be subtle, like a minor difference in angle, or it may be significant like convexing a bevel.

To come as close as possible to restoring the factory edge I would suggest you try either a DC4 stone and use the method described on Fallknivens site. Or try something like a Lansky (I can't believe I just said that :eek:) that uses a clamp and rods to guide the stone angle. I used one for awhile, it worked OK on smaller knives, but was piddly to fuss around with.

The Sharpmaker also might work, but I'm really unfamiliar with it.

Or you could use a professional sharpening service. They may be able to clamp the knife on their sharpening systen and come very close to replicating the factory edge and angle. This could be cost prohibitive over time, and eventually you will have to choose a method and practice so you can field sharpen. But it may get you back to happy with your edge while you research and decide what method to try.

Not sure how helpful this is.

Kevin

EDIT: any chance you can post a photo of your knife blade?? I just checked two factory fresh F1's (a VG10 and 3G) and both are full convex from the factory, NO micro bevel. I imagine yours is the same, and if so, I would really recommend the mousepad sandpaper method. With a bit of practice you will be able to bring it back to factory sharp, or better.
 
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