My fallkniven F1 experience + questions

[Dag-nabit]

Whoa..... nice RC4 convex? DIY or shipped out? Either way it's totally sweet!

It was DIY, so thanks for the compliment :thumbup:

It was the first (quality) knife I reprofiled on a belt sander after practicing on a bunch of cheap knives to learn the technique.

Kevin

 

[sodak]

also, should my F1 look so 'used' after a single wood batoning session? Everyone else's pictures of their F1's on this site all look really nice and pristine...whereas mine is really scratched up, and the thermorun is chipped in a couple places near the hilt of the blade...

It looked so neat new...



-Freq

Here's what some of my most loved knives look like:

The CS Master Hunter on top:

SR Battle Rat on right:

My all time favorite knife, SR Bandicoot:

MMHW White River Bowie (custom):

Fallkniven TK3:

Scott Gossman Nessmuk:

Shiny, nice looking knives are boring!

 

[FoxholeAtheist]

For bringing a convex blade back, this is the ultimate guide:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos

You could always buy your wife an F1... that way you have matching cutlery. Or buy something a bit longer as a "camp" knife, and keep the F1 as a belt knife. Or hell, just buy a whole bunch of knives and see which ones work for you. (That last sentence is what I've done. It almost kind of works. )

 

[freq18hz]

Don't think of it as berating. And please don't think of this as a snide remark, just a fact. "the only way to have a factory edge is from the factory" That's why it is called a factory edge.

When we (any of us) sharpens a blade we are going to change something about the edge characteristics, regardless of the method used. the change may be subtle, like a minor difference in angle, or it may be significant like convexing a bevel.

To come as close as possible to restoring the factory edge I would suggest you try either a DC4 stone and use the method described on Fallknivens site. Or try something like a Lansky (I can't believe I just said that ) that uses a clamp and rods to guide the stone angle. I used one for awhile, it worked OK on smaller knives, but was piddly to fuss around with.

The Sharpmaker also might work, but I'm really unfamiliar with it.

Or you could use a professional sharpening service. They may be able to clamp the knife on their sharpening systen and come very close to replicating the factory edge and angle. This could be cost prohibitive over time, and eventually you will have to choose a method and practice so you can field sharpen. But it may get you back to happy with your edge while you research and decide what method to try.

Not sure how helpful this is.

Kevin

EDIT: any chance you can post a photo of your knife blade?? I just checked two factory fresh F1's (a VG10 and 3G) and both are full convex from the factory, NO micro bevel. I imagine yours is the same, and if so, I would really recommend the mousepad sandpaper method. With a bit of practice you will be able to bring it back to factory sharp, or better.

yea let me find a decent camera...

the thing was def sharp from the factory, but the way it pushes through the wood, night and day different from my other knives (even izula)...it just goes through like butter.


-Freq

 

[okbohn]

Thanks for posting the video links. Those videos are absolutely the best education you can get on sharpening your F1.

Also, the Bark River customized F1s are here http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Custom-Fallknivens

 

[ikiddp9]

I agree:, get her any of these: Bark River Gunny,liten bror or necker or Fallkniven Wm1 or another F1

 

[Morskaya Pexota]

I own a Fallkniven S1 Pro and TK6. The blade steel in my S1 Pro is laminated Cobalt steel. I understand it is less prone to chips and rolls when exposed to heavy use. You may want to consider the Pro series for your next trip. Also there are a number of videos online of people upgrading handles on their Fallknivens. I may do the same due to the smaller size of handles on their knives. As far as blade sharpening, i just use buff wheel green compound. I scribble it on a sheet of thin cardboard, then run my knife across it at just the right angle. With practice you will be able to get it scalpel sharp. I use the same method to polish out scratches in my blade. Also l have other, big and heavy blades l use for batoning but l understand the A1 Pro is a good candidate for such use. Also, a little wilderness tip l picked up in the Alabama backwoods ... If you can locate a pine stump or fallen pine tree, deep in the center is a nature made stick of "heart pine". It spent the life of the tree soaking up the pine sap. It will light and stay lit even in a snowstorm. Would be worth having some on hand.