My Fallkniven F1 just arrived

freq18hz said:
So now the question is...if I already have my fallkniven, and my swiss army in my pack...do I really need to leave my Izula in there? Probably should just take it out...

So now I've got two benchmade griptilians (one mini), an Izula, all brand new and never used, warming the bench. I hate to take such a fine knife out of my pack, especially considering how light it is...but really, with the F1, what do I need the Izula for, other than for carrying cordage?

-Freq
Click to expand...

Keep your pack weight down, so only carry what you think is necessary. the swiss army can always go in your pocket and be handy to grab if needed for small chores.

I know you said the original reason for the pack knife was an emergency fall back if you ever found yourself stranded, but.........

If you have the opportunity in the area where you hike, (too many people, or restrictions??) try to create / take advantage of opportunities to use your knives a bit. Build a fire, slice apples, make a weeny stick, etc., just whatever comes along.

You can rotate through your knives, using each one for a trip or two, until you get familiar with each. This way you can evaluate each knife as you become familiar with it's capabilities, strengths, and weaknesses.

Soon enough you will gravitate naturally toward your favorites.

Kevin
 
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I have a F1 with the leather sheath but i wish i had the zytel one because it is more compact.
 
I am glad that as reading this thread, My F1 with Zytel and Leather sharpshooter sheaths is en route. That will make a Fallkniven trio for me:
F1 , S1 , and A1. Yeah , I know... get an A2.:p

Btw, my S1 and A1 have zytel pants. No complaints with them at all.
 
So here is a question for you guys:

If mousepad + sandpaper + stropping is the best method to sharpen convex blades,

Why does Fallkniven sell sharpening stones, and mention them for use with their blades on their site?

If I use a Fallkniven stone, with a Fallkniven F1 knife, I will ruin the edge on the knife?


-Freq
 
Dont flame me, I really dont know, but what is the draw of the Fallkniven series? IMO uncomfortable handle with little to no guard, combined with plain looks and an average blade.
 
freq18hz said:
So here is a question for you guys:

If mousepad + sandpaper + stropping is the best method to sharpen convex blades,

Why does Fallkniven sell sharpening stones, and mention them for use with their blades on their site?

If I use a Fallkniven stone, with a Fallkniven F1 knife, I will ruin the edge on the knife?


-Freq
Click to expand...

I find mousepad + sandpaper to be the easiest way to sharpen any knife.

I think they sell sharpening stone to make more $$$ But it is possible to sharpen a convex edge with a stone but it require a lot more practice than with mousepad + sandpapers.
 
glockfire said:
Dont flame me, I really dont know, but what is the draw of the Fallkniven series? IMO uncomfortable handle with little to no guard, combined with plain looks and an average blade.
Click to expand...

The draw ? My S1 is just an amazing knife. The handle - same as F1 - is very comfortable , the guard will suffice imo , plain looks ? what do you want an oosik handle with carved mokume bolsters ? The Fallkniven are made to work , plain and simple , no bells and whistles , although you can buy a blank and dress one up if you desired. The 'average' blade is tried and true VG10. exposed end tang for hammering etc. The sheath is nothing fancy but will work great if you were in the field and since the knife is stainless there's no muss or fuss about moisture.

I think the S1 is the epitome of the survival knife , the F1 as well although I do not own that model.

Lastly I know what you mean about not seeing what so special about them since I think the same thing about many knives that some folks find popular on here , it's all about what one likes and choose to buy. :)

Tostig
 
The Fallkniven stones will NOT harm the edge or blade of their knives at all.

I commonly use a Fallkniven DC4 to touch up and sharpen practicaly all my knives, They work great.

If desired I finish off with a strop loaded with green compound.

glockfire...Get a Fallkniven. The handles are anything but uncomfortable and the blades are far above average. Performance of the knives in the field is also far above par. I was skeptical for quite a while and am now a real fan of their products.
 
I felt the handle was too narrow as well, and the blade a bit too wide, which I noticed while slicing sticks and whittling. A lot of times it would just slide down the stick as the side of the convex edge would rub instead of the edge digging in. If the handle fit my hands better I may have spent more time getting used to it, but I have big paws, what can I say. :D
 
So far what I like about the F1, having not used it, is how light it is, strong it seems, and friggin sharp it came from the factory. Also it smells good. =)


-Freq
 
Hey Freq,

The first thing to Sharpen up is your Google-Fu. There is much to cover off with respect to blade grinds, edge relief, sharpening techniques, etc. and all that information is available on-line. It would be daunting to try and reproduce it here.

Suffice it to say you can sharpen pretty much any knife, any way you want to, and you won't ruin the edge. You just have to find which method works for you and practice a bit.

For sharpening; two things to start:

First you have Blade Grind. This is the overall basic shape of the blade, from spine to edge. It can be convex (like your F1), flat, hollow, etc.

Then you have Edge Grind, or Micro Bevel. This is the shape of the actual cutting edge. This would commonly be either a flat bevel, or a convex bevel. (you can get into compound or multi bevels).

The type of edge grind or micro bevel is, for the most part, personal preference.


As I said; too complex to deal with in one post. Here are a couple links to get you started.

There is a lot of information here: So sit back and browse through at your leisure. Hopefully it will help you understand the theory of sharpening, and help you decide on a method of sharpening.

There are also lots of sharpening videos on line as well.

From Wiki - A basic explanation of blade grinds
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind

Jay Fisher - everything you ever wanted to know about blades.
http://www.jayfisher.com/Blades.htm

Sharpening Video - Convex Blade
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos
Kevin
 
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Great thread!!
Savage, guess what?












Mmmmm A2 goodness, im pretty sure you need one:D

FallknivenA2.jpg

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
glockfire said:
Dont flame me, I really dont know, but what is the draw of the Fallkniven series? IMO uncomfortable handle with little to no guard, combined with plain looks and an average blade.
Click to expand...

I have an A1 and I am currently debating the F1 or S1. I am considerably new here and new to knives. But these are my beginner observations and limited skills experience. I have done ample research and am currently working on my skills. So I apologize from the begin if I come across naive. I possess nowhere near the knowledge or experience of many of the other forum members. My collection consist of an RC5, A1, Mora 2000, 2010, Kabar Heavy Bowie, SP5, and more...its growing. The Fallkniven just seem IMHO to be the best all-around design of the pack. If I had the rat RC6, or any other 6" in that length of knife I would still say the same thing about the A1. Fallkniven just seems to do things right in the right places! I know this is an F1 post but bare with me. Let me explain why I have really liked fallkniven knives:

Fallkniven uses what I have come to find a great steel to start..not an average one at all! They come from the factory extremely sharp and well made. The properties of their VG-10 steel make them hard RC59 rockwell rated hard!! But not brittle at that hardness because of the lamination process and the formation of VG-10...it is tough!!! Not to mention...stainless, cant say that for 10XX series! It holds an edge extremely well! But they are more difficult to sharpen...but not that much more than say 1095! VG-1...not even in the same league nor 5160.

They tend to be weighted right and balanced. Not too light, not too heavy. Blade/handle balance is right on axis. I had a SOG Seal Pup I found to be way too light! But find my RC5 to be too heavy although an awesome CHOPPER! But seems to be limited to that as its many strength.

Sheath is simple on the fallkniven (I have a zytel not a leather...I don't like leather because I tend to have knives around water and moisture) yet functional without being a pig like many other sheaths out there. You can put the knife back in without having to take a long look to make sure you get the blade in the liner...like many SOGs sheaths and other nylon/condura sheath do. The RAT sheaths are nice too but BIG! But as for the Fallkniven sheaths, I dont think they are great but certainly decent and locks the blade in very well. Plus there sheaths are light! Just wish they were more functional in the mounting department...better MOLLE!! They are pretty crap there!

Fallkniven grips are better than kraton because they aren't too sticky or will hold sap, it isnt too hard like Grivory or Zytel nor too slick or too big! It absorbs shock well. Busse grips are the only ones that I fine better. But I think you are right about the F1...needs a bigger finger guard. That is why I am considering the S1 instead. Oh and the H1...OUT...no guard at all. I actually considered a Cold Steel Master Hunter but the VG-1 San Mai III steel just isnt as good.

On to the tang, not only full but the design is nice with its protruding shank to hammer if need be or pommel. The RAT protruding tang is for simply pommeling and breaking glass/plex...good luck hammering...it is pointed and narrow! But they both are still nice just function slightly different. Some function of the protruding tang are more realistic than others...depends on your use. I hit tent stakes with mine if I dont have a hammer doesnt work great but if I cant find a rock in a hurry because of rain or darkness...it is all I got! Or even smash open some walnut shells.

I want to go back to something, The blades, as I stated are of one of the best steels out there (Production grade). I am not going to knock 10XX but it will rust...VG-10 will not and still have the same edge retention if not better with out the corrosion issues. It is tough...many say second to busse family of steels IMHO, SR-77 (which does not hold and edge as well but is stronger) SR-101 (better than SR-77) and the pinnacle INFI of steel. Busse is really in a class of its own but back to Fallkniven. But I consider Busse/Swamp/Scrap to be a custom knife maker not a production one like Fallkniven, RAT, etc.

Blade dimensions are IMHO the difference maker because I feel they make the the fallkniven knives far more versatile. They are extremely well designed and thought out. For example the blade isnt as tall as let say a RAT yet still has the ability to baton well but also carve and perform finer detailed tasks much better. Chopping is solid and I dont think (not to compare RAT again) any less than a RAT, A1 to RC6 for example. As for blade thickness they seem to have found a good balance there as well. Since I have mentioned the RC6 and A1 lets use them as a continued example. The A1 is .24" thick in a 6" yet the RAT RC6 is .188" and weights within .2 oz of each other...hmmmmm. Whelding (SP) the knife overall better. The Fallkniven knife profiles just seem to me to be better thought out when you compound, weight, length, thickness, and shape. And I apologize for comparing RAT but they are up there in the production knife company higher tier...along the same lines at Fallkniven.

One thing I dont like...warranty!!! Fallkniven isnt nearly as good as a RAT...not even close...but I am yet to hear of anyone having and issue! And I looked hard! For if I am going to spend that kind of money it better not fail! But still if you break the RAT...they give you a new one!!! That is awesome..how bout trying that fallkniven?

I was so skeptical of Fallkniven because of price until I got one...and I really like them. They are not perfect but for my limited skills and knowledge what I am coming to find and experience is they are pretty damn good! From what I like about Fallkniven it is obvious I like what I see. But I certainly like my RAT too...oh and the little Mora are AWESOME!! But they have more of a confided space than the Fallkniven...but then again look at the price!!! You get far more than what you pay for with a Mora! The 2000 is one of my favorites...just needs a better finger guard...hence the 2010. Just wish the 2010 blade was 1/2" longer!

Anyway thats my $0.02 and I am no expert just a guy eager for knowledge and a new hobby that is now surpassing my gun one! I love it! And on that note the Jacky D has completely taken over...
 
This is the only picture I have of the F1 that I had.
It came with the leather sheath, but I wouldn't recommend it.
One day, I put the knife into the sheath a little bit crookedly, and the knife,
being as sharp as it is, sliced right through the leather on the sheath.
There is a BF member on here who makes kydex sheaths for F1's so I promptly
purchased one.
The F1 is one of the best knives that I've had the pleasure to own.
My daughter needed a good knife when she became a Master Guide, it went to her.
I miss it, but thankfully have other knives to take up the slack.

WholeCollection.jpg
 
Brad Greulich said:
Great thread!!
Savage, guess what?












Mmmmm A2 goodness, im pretty sure you need one:D

FallknivenA2.jpg

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Click to expand...

Hey, that's pretty cool, that is a photo of my A2. :thumbup::thumbup: :D

It's kind of neat to see it making the rounds on the net.

Kevin
 
Dag-nabit said:
Hey Freq,

The first thing to Sharpen up is your Google-Fu. There is much to cover off with respect to blade grinds, edge relief, sharpening techniques, etc. and all that information is available on-line. It would be daunting to try and reproduce it here.

Suffice it to say you can sharpen pretty much any knife, any way you want to, and you won't ruin the edge. You just have to find which method works for you and practice a bit.

For sharpening; two things to start:

First you have Blade Grind. This is the overall basic shape of the blade, from spine to edge. It can be convex (like your F1), flat, hollow, etc.

Then you have Edge Grind, or Micro Bevel. This is the shape of the actual cutting edge. This would commonly be either a flat bevel, or a convex bevel. (you can get into compound or multi bevels).

The type of edge grind or micro bevel is, for the most part, personal preference.


As I said; too complex to deal with in one post. Here are a couple links to get you started.

There is a lot of information here: So sit back and browse through at your leisure. Hopefully it will help you understand the theory of sharpening, and help you decide on a method of sharpening.

There are also lots of sharpening videos on line as well.

From Wiki - A basic explanation of blade grinds
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind

Jay Fisher - everything you ever wanted to know about blades.
http://www.jayfisher.com/Blades.htm

Sharpening Video - Convex Blade
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos
Kevin
Click to expand...

kevin,

Yeah I've read up a bunch on grinds, seen sharpening videos etc. I was looking at the F1 blade, I just can't see any microbevel whatsoever, it just looks fully convex to me.

Do you think the mousepad method is recommended over using fallkniven's own stones?

-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
kevin,

Yeah I've read up a bunch on grinds, seen sharpening videos etc. I was looking at the F1 blade, I just can't see any microbevel whatsoever, it just looks fully convex to me.

Do you think the mousepad method is recommended over using fallkniven's own stones?

-Freq
Click to expand...

It really is such a personal choice.

I have the DC4 stone, as well as the diamond / ceramic rods. I could always get knives sharp, bit not extremely sharp.

Eventually I tried the sandpaper/mousepad method and found it the easiest to get the results I was looking for. (because I'm impatient I have advanced to a belt sander, but still freshen edges with sandpaper when the belt sander isn't handy)

This doesn't mean the mousepad/sandpaper method is better, it just means I suck at sharpening with a stone, and should probably practice at it more.

If your F1 has indeed been shipped with a full convex edge, then I might lean toward suggesting you try the mousepad method. This is only because there is no need to reprofile the edge if it is already convexed.

If you are already set up with sharpening stones, and get good results, then there really is no need to change your method.

Kevin

PS I don't recommend a belt sander, at least not until after you learn the mousepad method. It is very easy to burn the tip off, or damage the edge with a highspeed belt until you figure out the technique.
 
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