My Fallkniven F1 just arrived

:rolleyes:

They sell sharpening stones. Should you use them? I don't know, you tell me. Spyderco sells sharpening system, should you use it for spydies? Wouldn't it be silly if they sold mousepads and sandpaper?

I have their stone in my EDC bag just in case. I mostly sharpen my folders with it and use mousepad/sandpaper on convex knives.

Dude, use your head.
 
No you got me wrong, I tape the sandpaper on my head and tie the knife between the two big teeth of walrus while three otters and four beavers carry me upside down on full moon night. Works the best for me.
 
glockfire said:
Dont flame me, I really dont know, but what is the draw of the Fallkniven series? IMO uncomfortable handle with little to no guard, combined with plain looks and an average blade.
Click to expand...

Okay, I won't flame.....just ignore....:D
 
I was such a fool to let you go (but I needed the money)....I was wrong to put others before you (ESEE 3,4, Izula...)....I just got hung up with the wrong crowd.....(especially the custom by that Dave Farmer fella).
You were right all along......the Micarta is not as green over there.....

I'm prepared to rid myself of all others....(well....maybe just the ESEE4 I'm willing to part with)...and if you come back I'll build you that dream house you've always wanted ( Cocobolo handles and a fine leather sheath)....

I miss you terribly...please come back.....I've changed.....:foot:
 
Love my F1. Tried the sandpaper / mousepad method. Was not pleased with the results. Sharpened with my Edgepro and my F1 is as sharp as a razor blade, as is all my knives sharpened on the Edgepro.

Bill
 
Hitthespot said:
Love my F1. Tried the sandpaper / mousepad method. Was not pleased with the results. Sharpened with my Edgepro and my F1 is as sharp as a razor blade, as is all my knives sharpened on the Edgepro.

Bill
Click to expand...

The only thing I wonder is:

People seem to attribute a large part of the above average cutting wood cutting performance of the F1 (especially for its relatively small size) to its convex scandinavian grind.

If you sharpen on your edgepro, don't you lose the convex? I would thing this would make it push through wood less easy?


-Freq
 
freq18hz said:
The only thing I wonder is:

People seem to attribute a large part of the above average cutting wood cutting performance of the F1 (especially for its relatively small size) to its convex scandinavian grind.

If you sharpen on your edgepro, don't you lose the convex? I would thing this would make it push through wood less easy?
-Freq
Click to expand...

You would only lose the convex at the edge by creating a small flat micro bevel.

The blade grind would remain convex. A flat bevel edge will not affect the batoning capability of your knife.

Opinions on whether or not a flat bevel edge vs convex edge cuts/slices better will go on forever. I personally don't have an opinion on it.

Kevin
 
so how visible is this micro bevel supposed to be? I can see where the steel is laminated, but I see no bevel...


-Freq
 
Like I said, put the knife under a light and turn it around; you should see littlebit of shine on the edge. There it is.
 
freq18hz said:
so how visible is this micro bevel supposed to be? I can see where the steel is laminated, but I see no bevel...


-Freq
Click to expand...

As A.L. has said, turn the blade under a light, the edge will glint. It actually should very easily visible to the naked eye, even without a bright light source.

The size of the bevel will depend a lot on the thickness of the blade, but approx. 0.5mm - 2mm or 1/32" - 1/8". (a 2mm or 1/8" bevel is huge)

Beveled Edge If you are not seeing this, the edge is likely full convex.
bbe2e9e0.jpg


Convexed Edge
02c86376.jpg


Kevin
 
freq18hz said:
The only thing I wonder is:

People seem to attribute a large part of the above average cutting wood cutting performance of the F1 (especially for its relatively small size) to its convex scandinavian grind.

If you sharpen on your edgepro, don't you lose the convex? I would thing this would make it push through wood less easy?


-Freq
Click to expand...

I contemplated the same questions. However I use my knives for hunting, fishing, and general cutting much more than I ever would for cutting wood. So any loss in performance on wood would be ok with me for the razor sharp edge the Edgepro places on all my blades. If I need to chop wood I'm not going to use my F1 anyway. It's too small for such a task except in a full blown emergency with nothing else available.

Bill
 
glockfire said:
Dont flame me, I really dont know, but what is the draw of the Fallkniven series? IMO uncomfortable handle with little to no guard, combined with plain looks and an average blade.
Click to expand...

Well, I tend to like the handle for the chores I have, the blade geometry works really well, and the steel keeps it working for a long time.

As a long-time Dozier fan, I've surprised myself by accumulating and using a variety of Fallkniven models. The PHK and H1 get the most use, and now I'm finding the U2 in my pocket frequently. How'd they get there? Dunno. Swedish magic, I guess.
 
freq18hz said:
So here is a question for you guys:

If mousepad + sandpaper + stropping is the best method to sharpen convex blades,

Why does Fallkniven sell sharpening stones, and mention them for use with their blades on their site?

If I use a Fallkniven stone, with a Fallkniven F1 knife, I will ruin the edge on the knife?


-Freq
Click to expand...

I wondered that, too, so I asked them. They indicated that using the stones would work for touching up the edge. They also pointed out that one can still keep the convex edge, with practice.
 
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