Old Hunter
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Keep it up Primble; got my first laugh of the day seeing your cartoon this morning. OH
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
My first traditional slipjoint...
- Thread starter gators52
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I always recommend a Case to anyone interested in a traditional folder. I like Buck knives too. I used to prefer Buck's stainless over Case's stainless but I've changed my mind after owning and using a couple of Case stainless models. Really, in normal everyday use I doubt you will see any difference in the two blade steels. As for stainless vs CV, I also doubt you will find any difference in performance in Case knives. It depends more on whether you like your blades to patina or remain looking closer to the way they were when new.
My recommendation would be a Case Stockman in either 3 5/8" or 3 7/8" size with whatever steel and handle material you like.
My recommendation would be a Case Stockman in either 3 5/8" or 3 7/8" size with whatever steel and handle material you like.
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If you want a thicker frame go for the buck it's based on 3 backsprings if you want a thinner profile go with the Queen or Case, I do like the hollow grind on the Buck 300 series though. 
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The Buck blades are meatier and IIRC both my Queen and Northwoods have flat grinds while the Buck has a high hollow grind. I don't have them right in front of me but I'm pretty sure my memory is accurate. 
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I got Primble-ized!! 
:barf:
:barf:
Primble
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I got Primble-ized!!
I can't think of anyone more deserving - now where is my sandpaper? I might need it to remove the charred spots off my friend Mark!
What about the 154CM - how would it compare to the Buck steel ?
black mamba
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In the roughly $100 range (or less), Schatt & Morgan's ATS-34 and Canal Street's 14-4 CrMo are very comparable to 154CM. Queen's D2 is in the same "ballpark" for edge holding, at a much lower cost.
Not the sexiest of the traditionals, but since you list pulling weeds as a use for it, I would consider the TL-29 electrician pattern knives. The large screwdriver/scraper blade can be used for your non-cutting uses to avoid damage to your blade. You can also find some models with a hawkbill blade in addition to the spear blade and the screwdriver.
Some great suggestions so far. Some additional thoughts.
The core thing is to have a single large main blade for regular or heavy use and a smaller blade for close whittling. The standard 2 blade jack knife or 3 blade stockman are popular. Another traditional pattern is the canoe.
On blades, there is hardness and there is grind. For whittling, I would prefer a soft flat ground blade than a hard hollow grind. I prefer the feel of a flat ground blade in the wood that much. Old Schrade USA knives can give you hard flat grinds. Victorinox will give you flat soft blades. Carry a pocket stone and commit to learning to sharpen and it won't matter as much.
In your landscaping golf course work, how do you deal with tools? If you carry a full sized MT with an external main blade, your traditional pocket knife can be more whittling focused. The 2 work together.
If you want 1 tool to cover everything, you might look at SAKs that have a small pen blade like the Recruit or Camper. The will also add additional tools that may be useful in your work.
Another alternative is to carry a small butterfly style tool to back up a traditional main blade. If you have big hands or want a folder you can push harder, a traditional farming knife like a Sodbuster or Opinel can be carried along with something like a Leatherman Micra.
EDC Pair by Pinnah, on Flickr
The Micra can be opened up full length and makes a very usable whittler.
Hope this helps
The core thing is to have a single large main blade for regular or heavy use and a smaller blade for close whittling. The standard 2 blade jack knife or 3 blade stockman are popular. Another traditional pattern is the canoe.
On blades, there is hardness and there is grind. For whittling, I would prefer a soft flat ground blade than a hard hollow grind. I prefer the feel of a flat ground blade in the wood that much. Old Schrade USA knives can give you hard flat grinds. Victorinox will give you flat soft blades. Carry a pocket stone and commit to learning to sharpen and it won't matter as much.
In your landscaping golf course work, how do you deal with tools? If you carry a full sized MT with an external main blade, your traditional pocket knife can be more whittling focused. The 2 work together.
If you want 1 tool to cover everything, you might look at SAKs that have a small pen blade like the Recruit or Camper. The will also add additional tools that may be useful in your work.
Another alternative is to carry a small butterfly style tool to back up a traditional main blade. If you have big hands or want a folder you can push harder, a traditional farming knife like a Sodbuster or Opinel can be carried along with something like a Leatherman Micra.
EDC Pair by Pinnah, on Flickr
The Micra can be opened up full length and makes a very usable whittler.
Hope this helps
Primble
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Have we confused you enough yet? I would really appreciate it if you would come back to this thread and post a picture of the knife you bought and a short narrative of why you picked the knife you picked. That might give us all some insight as to what energy we bring to these types of threads, which get posted so often. I just wonder how often our advice is even taken? Maybe we need a sticky on the main page that states: If you ask for buying advice, you have to post a picture of what you bought.
I sometimes think I might have paid too much for the WT and for some of my others with the 154CM and you are correct Frank - it should be pretty darn good for the price charged.
I especially think that, when I find a really nice and solid antique knife for well under a hundred dollars, which seems to satisfy me greatly, regardless of brand. I do not own a Queen knife, so I cannot even state anything about their quality. You don't see many of them in my area. I only have two Buck knives and they are great knives. I am sure you have good reason for your brand choices, as I feel I do too. I respect your choices. I did honestly wonder what you guys who prefer Queens and Bucks thought of the 154-CM. I do recall a Queen Canoe, or what I recall was a canoe, that Frank received as a gift, which really appealed to me and I commented on it's beauty.Jeff - You have some great knives and I notice that you are fond of the Queens. I am sure what you said here is most accurate.
It seems that I might have won a battle or two here, but, looks like I lost the war. I got little backup support from the Case brigades. I hope it was all in good fun, this choice of brand defending and such. I would not want to intentionally offend any of the fine folks here. I do not really focus on steels all that much and usually buy a knife that appeals to me at the time. I honestly respect everyone's choices and have a good weekend!
P.S. - It appears my dragon ran out of fire!
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I can't think of anyone more deserving - now where is my sandpaper? I might need it to remove the charred spots off my friend Mark!
What about the 154CM - how would it compare to the Buck steel ?
I've got quite a few knives with 154CM and it's upgraded, powdered metal version CPM-154. It is quite a bit more expensive to use then the stainless typically used by Buck and Case in their standard offerings. It sharpens up nice with diamond stones and holds an edge very well. I can maintain the edge for quite awhile using a leather hone with CrO compound.
Here's a blurb from a Crucible Data sheet on their knife steels:
154 CM®/CPM® 154
154 CM is a high molybdenum modification of 440C
offering improved wear resistance (edge retention) and
better corrosion resistance. It is also available in a CPM
version for improved toughness and polishability.
That's a great looking WT, Primble. I've have a hard time carrying anything but the stag version, since I got it last fall.
That being said I don't think the OP can go wrong with any knife made by Buck or Case in their stainless steel offerings. Queen's D2 is great stuff too, although you'll find it much easier to sharpen with diamond stones. Doesn't quite meet the spec for a true stainless steel, but I've never had to do anything special to keep mine corrosion free.
Yeah, I think we're getting the original poster bogged down in the minutiae of brands and steels so deeply we may not be that helpful.
"This is going to be my EDC knife as well as work knife. I work on a golf course and mainly use it for opening fertilizer bags and pulling weeds. I also want a knife I can learn to whittle with."
Requirements include general use, developing a hobby and working in an environment that's rife with chemicals and general dirt. Considering general use and learning to whittle, I would certainly go with a good carbon steel based on ease of sharpening and edge retention. But a knife that has to be used for a work environment that includes corrosive chemicals and probably doesn't include a lot of time for tool maintenance indicates the need for corrosion resistance. And frequent or prolonged exposure to the abrasiveness of dirt just about negates long edge retention anyway. Looks like you probably want stainless over carbon.
"I'm looking at getting a new case medium stockman...."
"If I go the SS route so I maybe reconsider getting a buck...."
Both are good choices, both are good knives, either would serve you well. All things considered, my suggestion would be to choose whichever knife you like the best. And whichever knife you choose, clean it with soap and water frequently and develop your sharpening skills.
"This is going to be my EDC knife as well as work knife. I work on a golf course and mainly use it for opening fertilizer bags and pulling weeds. I also want a knife I can learn to whittle with."
Requirements include general use, developing a hobby and working in an environment that's rife with chemicals and general dirt. Considering general use and learning to whittle, I would certainly go with a good carbon steel based on ease of sharpening and edge retention. But a knife that has to be used for a work environment that includes corrosive chemicals and probably doesn't include a lot of time for tool maintenance indicates the need for corrosion resistance. And frequent or prolonged exposure to the abrasiveness of dirt just about negates long edge retention anyway. Looks like you probably want stainless over carbon.
"I'm looking at getting a new case medium stockman...."
"If I go the SS route so I maybe reconsider getting a buck...."
Both are good choices, both are good knives, either would serve you well. All things considered, my suggestion would be to choose whichever knife you like the best. And whichever knife you choose, clean it with soap and water frequently and develop your sharpening skills.
Hey guys,
Sorry for the hiatus. I've been going back and forth for days on this. I'm about to pull the trigger tonight and buy my knife online.
I have decided on the yellow Case CV peanut. At under $30 this would be a great option. I'm going to use this as an EDC and while at work I'll also carry one of my larger folders that I can use for things like pulling weeds. I just love the looks of a case of the buck knives, it know that shouldn't matter, but it does. I do love my buck 110 though.
I think this will be a great introduction into traditional knives and a great knife to start whittling with. I'll learn which blades I like and if the CV will work for me in the humid outdoor environment. I'm sure this wont be my last traditional knife! I also figured this would be a great knife to pass down to my son (when I have one). It will be my first traditional folder as well as his.
Sorry for the hiatus. I've been going back and forth for days on this. I'm about to pull the trigger tonight and buy my knife online.
I have decided on the yellow Case CV peanut. At under $30 this would be a great option. I'm going to use this as an EDC and while at work I'll also carry one of my larger folders that I can use for things like pulling weeds. I just love the looks of a case of the buck knives, it know that shouldn't matter, but it does. I do love my buck 110 though.
I think this will be a great introduction into traditional knives and a great knife to start whittling with. I'll learn which blades I like and if the CV will work for me in the humid outdoor environment. I'm sure this wont be my last traditional knife! I also figured this would be a great knife to pass down to my son (when I have one). It will be my first traditional folder as well as his.
black mamba
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Congrats, gators52, on the decision. See, Primble, you didn't run out of gas after all! I love that we have both Case and Buck in their price range and still made in the USA. To me they are such very different knives. Bucks are heavier, probably tougher, and have the better heat treatment on the blades. Case excels in their slim good looks and their better snap and action, as well as variety of patterns. Between the two, Case wins out for me every time, and the CV blades are a joy to sharpen and use, although I prefer the stainless for a food knife. The little peanut should serve you well for a long time, and will probably be your "gateway drug" to many more traditional slipjoints. Enjoy!
Primble
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It seems that I might have won a battle or two here, but, looks like I lost the war.
P.S. - It appears my dragon ran out of fire!
. . . . or maybe not!
Fire Jeff - Fire - or maybe methane gas.
Gary - thanks for the compliment on my WT and the 154 info was interesting. Looks like the Case Brigade might have finally arrived, albeit a bit too late.
Well - I must remain honorable here - looks like I surrendered my sword - or dragon - or words before the battle was actually over - however - I did in fact offer to surrender and I stand by my word!
( See post # 35 )Enjoy your yellow CV Case Peanut gators52 and I agree - it will serve you well. Jeff ( not the Jeff Black Mamba, but, Jeff, the AZranchman) would be extremely excited of your choice! Thank you for letting us know your choice. :thumbup: