My First

idkx, i found it faster to do the profiles with a 36 grit 3m 984f than with a band saw. experiment with different stuff. profiling a medium sized blade, my arms are killin me afterwards lol.
 
john april said:
idkx, i found it faster to do the profiles with a 36 grit 3m 984f than with a band saw. experiment with different stuff. profiling a medium sized blade, my arms are killin me afterwards lol.
Click to expand...

I will check those out! My hands feel beat up today :D.
 
When it comes to drilling those pin hole in the handle, do NOT use a 1/8 inch drill (looks like you are shooting for 1/8? They need to be slightly oversized.(don’t ask me how I found this out...). Go to a drill size chart, and use a drill one step larger than your pin
(Example - if your pin is 1/8, drill the holes with a #30 drill bit)
 
Cushing H. said:
When it comes to drilling those pin hole in the handle, do NOT use a 1/8 inch drill (looks like you are shooting for 1/8? They need to be slightly oversized.(don’t ask me how I found this out...). Go to a drill size chart, and use a drill one step larger than your pin
(Example - if your pin is 1/8, drill the holes with a #30 drill bit)
Click to expand...
Why you need oversized hole ?
 
Natlek said:
Why you need oversized hole ?
Click to expand...
Because the pins vary slightly in size, and can end up binding in the hole. One step up gives enough leeway to avoid an interference fit, still is tight enough, and leaves a little room for glue
 
It has been my experience that an accurately sized hole is somewhat undersized after heat treat and needs reaming or chasing due the the metal expanding.
 
SS369 said:
It has been my experience that an accurately sized hole is somewhat undersized after heat treat and needs reaming or chasing due the the metal expanding.
Click to expand...
That is likely part of it. I have also seen these tight interferences in holes drilled in hard wood ... and have also measured a range of rod stock from different sources ... and they do vary in actual diameter. All it takes is a slightly undersized drill, and a slightly oversized rod and, whammo...
 
SS369 said:
It has been my experience that an accurately sized hole is somewhat undersized after heat treat and needs reaming or chasing due the the metal expanding.
Click to expand...
Sometimes I m lost with your USA 3/4 and 155/67 measurement ......:D and use a drill one step larger than your pin ,if your pin is 1/8, drill the holes with a #30 drill bit...confused me for moment .
3mm is 3mm and next one is 4mm in my world ...................:) All between is special one . ......like 3.1mm , 3.2mm etc. :)
 
I have not tried a one size larger letter drill as of yet. So, I don’t know if that will give the clearance I want after heat treating. And the blade is so hard that it ruins a bit because the bit only touches on the very sides of the tip.
I do want my pins or Corby’s to have a snug fit, they are pretty consistently sized. At least the ones I have are. I can always sand the pin materials if needed, but sanding the corby’s are a pain. I usually end up taking too much off or having to go back and forth to the grinder, etc.
Now for resizing 1/8 inch holes I use a solid carbide burr in a Dremel. Works good for that size. Haven’t found larger sizes with the shaft size needed for the dremel yet.
 
Cushing H. said:
That is likely part of it. I have also seen these tight interferences in holes drilled in hard wood ... and have also measured a range of rod stock from different sources ... and they do vary in actual diameter. All it takes is a slightly undersized drill, and a slightly oversized rod and, whammo...
Click to expand...

I've had this happen. It was easier to chuck up the brass rod and lightly sand it on the 2 inch belt geinder to slightly reduce the rod stock.
 
SS369 said:
I have not tried a one size larger letter drill as of yet. So, I don’t know if that will give the clearance I want after heat treating. And the blade is so hard that it ruins a bit because the bit only touches on the very sides of the tip.
I do want my pins or Corby’s to have a snug fit, they are pretty consistently sized. At least the ones I have are. I can always sand the pin materials if needed, but sanding the corby’s are a pain. I usually end up taking too much off or having to go back and forth to the grinder, etc.
Now for resizing 1/8 inch holes I use a solid carbide burr in a Dremel. Works good for that size. Haven’t found larger sizes with the shaft size needed for the dremel yet.
Click to expand...
I have several times drilled before heat treat, and the holes that came back were no problem ... and that is MUCH easier than trying to enlarge a hole after heat treat.

sanding down the pins or corbys works also (but is a pain) .. for now I am sticking with drilling the slightly oversized hole before ht. The special size drill bits (#30, etc) are readily available on amazon. If you think about it, they likely exist with those special designations for a reason...
 
Side note, I need more ventilation in my work area, achievable as there is an outside door right next to my vice. Have some silverish stuff in my nose today. Either it's from stuff floating around in the air (would remove my mask after I stopped grinding) or my mask sucks. I'm gonna look into a nice respirator. Having that door open and a fan blowing air out is gonna be my main move next time.
 
A good size fan in the open doorway will help a lot.

What kind of respirator are you using?
 
Just a cheap dust mask I had. Before we moved I had to remove and replace the insulation in the crawl space of our old house, I had 1 left over from that.

Gonna get one of the 3M actual respirators if those are good?
 
I have a few spots to clean up still but at its current state:

20200608-144357.jpg
 
Cushing H. said:
When it comes to drilling those pin hole in the handle, do NOT use a 1/8 inch drill (looks like you are shooting for 1/8? They need to be slightly oversized.(don’t ask me how I found this out...). Go to a drill size chart, and use a drill one step larger than your pin
(Example - if your pin is 1/8, drill the holes with a #30 drill bit)
Click to expand...

Just checked, the rod I got for the pins is... 3/16 x5"(brass).. sooo if I'm looking at this chart that would be a.... 12?
 
Idkx said:
Just a cheap dust mask I had. Before we moved I had to remove and replace the insulation in the crawl space of our old house, I had 1 left over from that.

Gonna get one of the 3M actual respirators if those are good?
Click to expand...

Like a paper mask? That won't do much, if anything for you.

I use a 3M respirator from my local hardware store. It has cartridges and paper filters for dust. I'd just go to home depot or whatever and see what they have. Seems to work. I guess we'll find out in a few decades...
 
Idkx said:
Just checked, the rod I got for the pins is... 3/16 x5"(brass).. sooo if I'm looking at this chart that would be a.... 12?
Click to expand...
Yes - a # 12.

Funnily enough - a case in point. I am putting a handle on this filet knife (b-day gift for my sister). The blank was pre-made (I cheated - dont have much time - but I DID clean up the TBE from 0.02 to 0.007, and put a satin finish on it...). Anyway, it came with the holes - not sure exactly what they are, but a 3/16 drill bit and 3/16 brass rod pass cleanly though them. Never having used a 3/16 pin so far, I do not have any #12 drills. I went ahead and drilled the holes in the scales (stabilized spalted maple) using a 3/16 bit:

(will post a picture in a few minutes - looks like my premium membership has lapsed......)

Anyway - the 3/16 pin does NOT fit cleanly into the just drilled holes in the scales. NOW I have a choice of either sanding down the pin, or getting some #12 bits and enlarging the holes in the scales.....
 
Here is the picture of 3/16 holes drilled in the scales (website would not let me edit it in to the previous post....

upload_2020-6-8_14-40-35.png
 
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