My Heat treath oven project

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knifemaniac

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Jan 19, 2007
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Hello, people. :)
My name is Yasen, and I am knifemaker wannabe since two years. :jerkit:
I decide to make heat treat furnace for my blades, so this is my project. Metal frame, outer walls from lightweight bricks and inner walls from compressed alumo-silicate fiber planes. I will mount kanhtal with U-shaped spikes to the walls. Kanthal will be formed as Zig-Zag, not curly.
Digital controller with 6 programs and 15 steps, Solid state relay will be electric parts. It will be arrownd 3,5 - 4kw ot 220V. Dimentions inside are 60x30x30cm. bricks tickness - 6cm, pressed wool plates - 5cm. I connect them with thermal cement for fireplaces. the door will be with the same construction. I made telescopic sqare tubes on door and body to be able to adjust matching of both and remove door if I have to.
I am planing to make a small hole on the door like half brick size, but I havent decided yet. Whats your opinion? :)
 
Thanks, it is my first project of such kind, I hope it work well.
I have a friend who does potery and he gave me good advices for insulation materials for ovens. He made himself oven like wardrobe to bake enormous pots - 3 phase 20Kw! I've seen one project in Britishblade forums and one film by Rashid11. Is there someone else here made himself HT oven?
 
hey very nice thank you for letting us see this.
I am interrested in the wirring I have one that
I need to wire up.I have a PID,Realy,elements and thromstat
that need to be wired.
 
I am an electrician. I have no problem with wiring. :D Dont forget to ground every metal that you can touch - box, radiator for SSR, door.
If you have 2-wire instalation - connect the metal parts with the Zero, "N" wire.
If you have 3-wire instalation - connect metal parts with Ground wire.
Put a fuse on Phase entrance with current index according to your oven power to prevent fire in case of a shortcut and overloading.

My choise of Digital controller is wit 230V~ output to the SSR. There is SSR on 220V~ on 40 amps, that I will use.
There are controllers on 12-36V, DC also, and such kind of SSR-s.

Be sure that ends of the kantal wire that comes out of the oven are safe of touching, shortcuting and away from metal parts.

WIRING%20OVEN.JPG
 
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I like the door hinges!!! I like the whole oven! :thumbup: How are things in Sofia? I was there for a short trip while I was in Kosovo with KFOR. Beautiful country! :D I loved the old buildings and the history. It's very interesting to see buildings older than my country (USA).
 
It is gloudy and rainy, Will. :) I'm glad that you like the oven. You were a soldier in Kosovo?
From more than a year i make a site and forum for Bulgaria specialized for knives. We are doing good for now - 213 members at this time.
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I allready made my door. I decide to make small window in big door, witch I will fill with a lightweight brick - as small door. Thats how I can pull out a blade without opening the big door. Next weekend - kantal.
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Here are the heaters. Next weekend I will close the box and mount the door.

HT%20oven%20007.jpg


HT%20oven%20009.jpg

These are ceramic spacers for kanthal threaded rod, that I welded the ends to, and glassfiber textolite for extra insulation.
HT%20oven%20003.jpg
 
Guys, connection can be done in another way. Only diference is that not the phase, but Zero is ruled by SSR. In that way in case of shortcut the fuse will fall, without shortcut harming the SSR. Company that sells me all electric parts send me documentation for diferent ways of connnection.

WIRING%20OVENZero%20rull.JPG
 
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knifemaniac said:
Here are the heaters. Next weekend I will close the box and mount the door.

HT%20oven%20007.jpg


HT%20oven%20009.jpg

These are ceramic spacers for kanthal threaded rod, that I welded the ends to, and glassfiber textolite for extra insulation.
HT%20oven%20003.jpg
Click to expand...

the only issue i see with how you ran your heating elements is replacing them when thy burn out. looks like it would be a pain in the back side.
 
I have a book of Kanthal company for ways making and planting heaters on PDF. You have mail, JT. In zig-zag way - heaters have longer life. Better cooling.:) What pain in the back side you are talkin about?
 
Oh, you mean replacing wires in the back side. The roof is not mounted yet and I'm planning to leave the roof plate not glued with cement. It will be removeable.
 
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So I fired it up without any controllers and thermocouples. I put a rusty bolt inside and for a half an hour everything inside turned orange. I didnt want to continue with heating without temp controll, but I am satisfied for now. I am still waiting for my couple, PID and SSR.
 
Longer the wire - less the electric power. It is long because wire is thick 2.2mm diameter. Longer and thicker wire - longer life. And it is one single heater. ;)
 
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