My idea for a 3 piece titanium or steel handle barrel knife

fsir said:
The handle opens on one end via a cap. When the cap is removed this allows the steel cylinder pressing down on the blade block to slide out. In turn, the blade block with blade attached can slide out too and be either turn around for use or put back in with the blade inside the handle chamber.
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Yes, but it seems like an inherently dangerous process. Out slides this blade point first? How do you stop it? Especially when you are holding the inner tube that already came out?

Honestly, to me the complications involved in "deployment" (including that one) are the deal breakers.

I'm sure its just as "solid/guaranteed" a locking system as any other. I.e., it can fail. But so can every other lock.
 
fsir said:
The handle opens on one end via a cap. When the cap is removed this allows the steel cylinder pressing down on the blade block to slide out. In turn, the blade block with blade attached can slide out too and be either turn around for use or put back in with the blade inside the handle chamber.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm pretty sure I understand how it works now, but your diagram needs serious work. Isn't this a 4 piece knife? There's (1) the blade in its block, (2) the inner tube, (3) the outer tube handle, and (4) the cap, right?
 
marcinek said:
Yes, but it seems like an inherently dangerous process. Out slides this blade point first? How do you stop it?
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This is not meant to be a quick draw knife. It's a back up survival small chore knife. It's meant to be a small but robust multi-piece knife to compliment and spare your fixed blade knife from some of the lesser chores. It's a raw use, no frills knife. You just dump the blade on the ground or on a piece of clothing and be careful, whatever. Or you can just tip the handle over and blade should fall out with the cylinder still around it.
 
brancron said:
Ok, I'm pretty sure I understand how it works now, but your diagram needs serious work. Isn't this a 4 piece knife? There's (1) the blade in its block, (2) the inner tube, (3) the outer tube handle, and (4) the cap, right?
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Right. The cap, however, can be welded or secured to the inner tube making it a 3 piece again. i don't know if you've seen it but I updated the drawing a couple of minutes ago.
 
I say go for it; then build a five and then a six piece knife for the extra challenge...
 
brancron said:
, but your diagram needs serious work.
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Yea, I see what you mean. It's just three to four pieces but I redrew the pieces from so many different angles and configurations it looks confusing. You're absolutely right.
 
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fsir said:
Right. The cap, however, can be welded or secured to the inner tube making it a 3 piece again. i don't know if you've seen it but I updated the drawing a couple of minutes ago.
Click to expand...

If the cap were welded to the inner tube, then the inner tube would have to rotate along with the cap when assembling the knife. This would create friction issues if the inner tube were to press snugly against the blade block.

Here's what I think is a better picture, showing all four parts (the blade block and cap are in solid blue):

1iWTNK1.jpg
 
I am in the minority but if this was made in the USA and under 50 dollars I'd probably get one just for my emergency bag...
 
Actually, I don't see why this couldn't just be a two piece construction like the knife posted before. You could surely beef that up for a "backup" knife. I like the idea because it has the capability to be a lot of knife in what could be a very small package, but I do think it should be simplified a bit
 
brancron said:
If the cap were welded to the inner tube, then the inner tube would have to rotate along with the cap when assembling the knife. This would create friction issues if the inner tube were to press snugly against the blade block.

Here's what I think is a better picture, showing all four parts (the blade block and cap are in solid blue):

1iWTNK1.jpg
Click to expand...

Now that most people understand it, it's easy to see it from a simple diagram. (I added a diagram showing only the parts involved to the opening post.)

But yea, in hindsight, I should have colored coded it and done a better job of showing the inner cylinder inside the handle. mea culpa. mea culpa.
 
fsir said:
Now that most people understand it, it's easy to see it from a simple diagram. (I added a diagram showing only the parts involved to the opening post.)

But yea, in hindsight, I should have colored coded it and done a better job of showing the inner cylinder inside the handle. mea culpa. mea culpa.
Click to expand...

Another thing you might have to figure out is how you're going to stop the tip of the blade from becoming blunted and dulled when assembling the knife. Dropping the blade into the handle and then turning it until it lines up with the slot would cause a lot of damage to a sharp tip if it were metal rubbing against metal.
 
Lycosa said:
Will you^ offer a Red one?
:D
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I would if I were the one making them. Sure bet. But I'd happily hand this off to an experience knife maker with zero conditions for free if they wanted to take a crack at it. In fact, I'd prefer an experienced knife maker made this as I have zero experience making knives. I'd buy at least four to five.
 
fsir said:
Now that most people understand it, it's easy to see it from a simple diagram. (I added a diagram showing only the parts involved to the opening post.)

But yea, in hindsight, I should have colored coded it and done a better job of showing the inner cylinder inside the handle. mea culpa. mea culpa.
Click to expand...

Blade does not slide through inner cylinder as described in your new diagram.
 
No offense, but why not just buy a good usable Swedish barrel knife? They are on ebay rather commonly.
Rich
 
brancron said:
Another thing you might have to figure out is how you're going to stop the tip of the blade from becoming blunted and dulled when assembling the knife. Dropping the blade into the handle and then turning it until it lines up with the slot would cause a lot of damage to a sharp tip if it were metal rubbing against metal.
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hmm… perhaps a thin and lightweight metal rod that stores in the handle and can be screwed and unscrewed onto the blade base so as to allow easier guidance of the blade through handle and slit? Or perhaps a track running the inside length of the handle where the back of the blade can sit that guides blade right in through the slit with minimal damage to the blade edge?
 
Rich S said:
No offense, but why not just buy a good usable Swedish barrel knife? They are on ebay rather commonly.
Rich
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I would like to see something with a slightly wider blade. They're nice, though. Nothing against them. Would like to see a more modern and robust take on one.
 
fsir said:
It's meant to be a small but robust multi-piece knife to compliment and spare your fixed blade knife from some of the lesser chores.
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I don't get this^ part. I carry a fixed-blade TO USE IT. I'm not looking to spare my fixed-blade from being used.

If I had to choose between taking the time to put a knife together to cut something, or simply pull my fixed-blade from it's sheath, I'd choose my fixed-blade.

If a person anticipates needing a knife for any type of emergency/survival situation, I think it would be best if the knife they chose were as simple as possible and did not require assembly of any kind.

Also, consider the possibility that during an emergency/survival situation you might be in the dark, or that you may have suffered an injury to one hand that renders it useless, or it might be really cold and your hands could be freezing. Such very realistic conditions could make assembly difficult.

A fixed-blade, and many modern folders can easily be opened and used with one hand. Your design involves multiple loose pieces and requires several acts, and two hands, just to put it together before it can be used.
 
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