My Ivory Lanny's Clip (EDC)

No disrespect, but I feel the use of ivory is in poor taste, pre-ban or otherwise.
 
Brent, I know this might be asking a lot, and would definitely have to wait until you make another one, but is there any chance of seeing a picture of this knife beside a "standard" size Lanny's clip?

Thanks,
Rob
 
Now the trick will be to keep people from talking you out of it!

That sure turned out nice. You did yourself proud!
 
HotSwat said:
No disrespect, but I feel the use of ivory is in poor taste, pre-ban or otherwise.
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I hope you will now take the time to teach all of the tasteless people here (that enjoy ivory) why. Please be quick...I don't want my popcorn to get cold. :D
 
That is a beauty! Very yummy ivory. Scaling the Lanny's clip to 3 3/8" is a great idea - for many patterns, that is what I consider the absolutely perfect using and carrying size - and D2 also, perfect working steel. What thickness of blade stock did you go with? 3/32"? I predict you'll have a number of orders for the Lanny Jr.
 
zerogee said:
That is a beauty! Very yummy ivory. Scaling the Lanny's clip to 3 3/8" is a great idea - for many patterns, that is what I consider the absolutely perfect using and carrying size - and D2 also, perfect working steel. What thickness of blade stock did you go with? 3/32"? I predict you'll have a number of orders for the Lanny Jr.
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You guessed it! 3/32" I think I'll go with thinner liners next time around. These are .045 and I think .035 would be better.
 
Very nice Brent, the ivory looks great. - :thumbup:

Enjoy the new EDC. - :D

Todd



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blades&grace said:
You guessed it! 3/32" I think I'll go with thinner liners next time around. These are .045 and I think .035 would be better.
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That sounds like a good idea -- thinner liners are one thing that makes many of the fine antique patterns rather more graceful to my eye (and slimmer in the hand) than most custom versions of them. (Just FYI, most antique knives I've measured had scale liners of 0.022" to 0.026", with center liners of about 0.014" to 0.016".)

-- Dwight
 
Thanks Todd.




zerogee said:
That sounds like a good idea -- thinner liners are one thing that makes many of the fine antique patterns rather more graceful to my eye (and slimmer in the hand) than most custom versions of them. (Just FYI, most antique knives I've measured had scale liners of 0.022" to 0.026", with center liners of about 0.014" to 0.016".)

-- Dwight
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Good to know, thanks Dwight. Aren't most of the thinner liners crimped in some way?
 
blades&grace said:
Good to know, thanks Dwight. Aren't most of the thinner liners crimped in some way?
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They typically used a rounded crosspein hammer (or something that produced similar results) and would hammer the scale side of the liner in a line, normally between the two end scale pins (avoiding the scale or shield pin holes - so sometimes you'll see several slightly offset strikes used instead) -- this "stretched" the liner along a center line, which cupped the liner a little. When the scales were pinned on, this cup would cause the liner to seat/seal down tight against the scale all around with no glue required, even if the handle profile was further ground after pinning the scales, and it'd stay that way too.

I think a nice side effect was that the hammering stiffened the liners - both by work hardening and by the partial spring forming of the liners into a shallow cup (also, almost all brass or nickel silver liner material they used was at least partially work hardened to begin with - "half-hard" usually; I think it was Holley that used to advertise that their liners were full spring temper work hardened for additional strength).

This shaping is true of all antique Sheffield and American made pocketknives I've taken apart, whether they have iron, brass, or nickel silver liners. (A note: the old iron liners are far softer and more malleable than the work hardened brass or nickel silver liners.)

-- Dwight
 
My goodness. That's gorgeous! Very well done there, blades&grace.

I'm envious; both of the knife itself and your ability to create it.

My dad's got a pre-1930 ivory pen knife and I've always been drawn to that material. It's really something else.
 
zerogee said:
They typically used a rounded crosspein hammer (or something that produced similar results) and would hammer the scale side of the liner in a line, normally between the two end scale pins (avoiding the scale or shield pin holes - so sometimes you'll see several slightly offset strikes used instead) -- this "stretched" the liner along a center line, which cupped the liner a little. When the scales were pinned on, this cup would cause the liner to seat/seal down tight against the scale all around with no glue required, even if the handle profile was further ground after pinning the scales, and it'd stay that way too.
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Have you, or anyone you know, ever attempted to reproduce this process?
 
blades&grace said:
Have you, or anyone you know, ever attempted to reproduce this process?
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I haven't, don't know of anyone who has - good glue's just too available now :p (and most custom slipjoint makers are just too darn fussy these days :o ). I figure Case used it at least thru the straight Case XX era -- I took apart a Case XX 64052 that I'd estimate was made about 1955 (it had that stunning red/cranberry sort of bone, worn almost smooth, yet it was dyed totally thru and is actually translucent) and it also had the hammered/cupped scale liners (don't worry, I only take apart junkers - broken and/or totalled blades, often with broken scales too). This is actually the most modern production slipjoint I've taken apart -- I'm only really interested in studying the old time true hand produced knives, and the old straight Case XX era, and most of the Case XX USA (no dots), was about the end of it.

Brass and nickel silver liners that have been hammered/cupped this way are remarkably stiff and strong (so long as they start out partially work hardened).

-- Dwight
 
Case still cups some of their liners to stiffen them.

If you use too thin liners the handle material will crack above the center pin, you see this a lot on old knives. It has to be thick enough to support the spring tention.. I use .032 up to 3 5/8 long and .040 for anything bigger than that.

A lot of things they did back in the day wouldn't fly with todays handmade knife buyer.
 
I like this one, but the thread has me really looking forward to what comes out next.
David
 
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