My KITH WIP

I'm impressed so far, man. You're always pushing the envelope and challenging yourself and so far you're rising to the challenge on this one. The center line looks a bit softer on the lower pic than the upper, but might just be the lighting. Overall, lookin good.
 
Remyrw said:
I'm impressed so far, man. You're always pushing the envelope and challenging yourself and so far you're rising to the challenge on this one. The center line looks a bit softer on the lower pic than the upper, but might just be the lighting. Overall, lookin good.
Click to expand...

I think you were right. I've worked some more on that side now and I think they're about even now... and I took down a couple of high spots.
 
Thanks.

This may seem excessive (and it probably is), but I've begun using my Magnivisor and a small Craftsman file to clean up the lines and remove as many of the gouges as possible. It's amazing how much difference that makes in how crisp the center line seems. I also filed off the gouges in the ricasso.
 
I'm pretty close to the point where I'll switch from files to sanding boards to move forward. I marked the sides A and B so it would be easier to tell where I need to work. Since the last shots I spent time cleaning up the plunge and the ricasso edge, clarifying the center line, and getting rid of as many gouges as I could with the files. I think I'll spend a little time with the finishing files just to reduce the amount of sanding needed, but I expect to be sanding very soon.

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Tryppyr

Before you started I thought that 1/8" stock might be a little thin for making the center ridge down the length of the blade, but you pulled it off. If you did this again (not likely huh?) would you use 1/8" stock again?

- Paul Meske
 
Paul, I'm not sure. Ask me again when I'm finished. ;)

As it stands today, I'd say 1/8th is BARELY enough at the widest point on the blade. I'm a little concerned that the ridge line will be less distinct there when sanding is completed. We'll see.
 
I had a thought. It almost died of loneliness. Here it is.

Problem: How to "sand" the bevels without rounding the ridge? First and most obvious answer was to use sanding boards. I started off with that, but in my implementation the paper is never drawn taut enough on the board to insure it stays perfectly level.

What I wanted was something flat, hard, and abrasive, but wouldn't leave gouges.

I thought about it and remembered I had a 3 piece set of sharpening stones from Harbor Freight. When used with the broad side, they form a flat even abrasive surface of either 100 grit, 260 grit or 600 grit. I starting using one and found that the bevels that I thought were already flat were a bit convex. Not surprising, since I ground them by hand. Slowly but surely the stone is reveling the problems with the bevels... and working them out.

I'll post some pictures later this week... when I have time to take some in daylight.
 
Looking good!

Speaking of flatness... check out the Nicholson Magi-cut files, they really leave a clean flat cut. Keep up the great work!
 
Another thought for using sand paper and flat sanding blocks is to use a cheap, light hold spray adhesive to adhere the paper to the block. Once the piece is used up, peel it off and add a new piece.

--nathan
 
Using the sharpening stones to do the "sanding" seems to be working well, but is slow work. I believe it is preserving the center ridge better than the sandpaper would do. I also like the way it helps me see and resolve small "low" spots.

I'll try the spray adhesive approach when I get to grits above 600. I like that idea.
 
I was looking for sharp grind lines in my WIP and what worked for me was gluing the sand paper to a piece of PG O-1, the difference was night and day. Gouges, before I got my grinder and I filed out my blades I would always get a gouge just as I was getting finished up:grumpy: It didn't matter if I chalked the file and cleaned it on every stroke, I would always get that one gouge on the last stroke:( I don't have that problem with the grinder, but now I am fighting the 2" disease:eek:
 
Spent some time (between conference calls and in the evening) working on the blade. It's pretty clean now with just a few small gouges right at the ridge. I'm still not in a position to take good pictures, though. What I have noticed is that the center line is sharper on one side than on the other. It's well defined on both sides, but one just seems "crisper". I'm going to work to achieve the same "crisp" look on both sides while working out the remaining gouges. I am also thinking I have a little more flattening to do at the tip on one of the quadrants.
 
I'm very pleased with my technique of using an oiled sharpening stone to clean up the bevels and sharpen the center ridge. It's a bit like using an abrasive crayon. It leaves a residue behind that clearly and distinctly SHOWS you where you are applying the abrasive force, allowing you to direct it where it is needed. Very helpful. Anyway, here's the latest results.

To answer Paul's question (again), given the results I'm getting now I am satisfied with my choice of 1/8 inch stock.

- Greg

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Looking good
The shape reminds me of anciend Greek swords.
(nice background btw)
 
Today I did the first trial fitting with the guard I made months ago. While I may or may not use this particular guard, I am planning to use the OA torch to weld (braise?) the guard in place and fill the gap.
 
The guard should be put on after the blade has been heat treating and welding or brazing will ruin your heat treat. Brazing requires temps over 800 F and welding requires much hotter than that.

Many use silver solder which requires a much lower heat. I have played around with soldering a few times and hate it.

Now I use good old JB Weld for my guards. If you fit it right, there shouldn't be a visable gap between the guard and blade. Even if there is a slight gap, the silver coler JB Weld won't be too noticable.

Jason
 
I was already planning to attach the guard after HT, and planning to wrap the blade in a wet towel to keep the blade from losing temper. I'm only doing the trial fitting now so I can decide whether to use this guard or make another when I send the blade out for HT... which will happen as soon as I have it free of scars.

I'm not going to settle for JB Weld on this one. If my attempt at permanently attaching the guard ruins the blade, I'll withdraw from the KITH.

- Greg
 
Okay, after some (5 minutes) of consideration I decided I liked the silver solder aproach, so that's likely where I'll go. Here's the picture of the loosely trial fitted guard.

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