My knife grinding jig

Thanks, Keith.
Too simple? It really does work well, but it takes a bit to get used to it. Follow the grind lines. I use two.
Frank
 
The jig in action:

[video=youtube;SiVcrS-2WiQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiVcrS-2WiQ[/video]


Pablo
 
okay guys as I told mr. Frank I will try and get his pictures posted. This actually to me seems the easiest way to do this however everyone has their own way maybe these pictures will help someone. I have not yet built mine but as soon as I have time and get the material I plan to do so. Different materials can be used however I plan to use the same material as mr. Frank. I am going to try and post these pictures and Hope that it works out if there are any questions Please refer to mr. Frank as he will be much more capable of answering them even if he is kinda harsh hahaha just kidding with you my friend

The biggest problem doing it that way, opposed to how PEU's works, is that there is no support distally. When I started using a jig, I did it just like that and found that if you grind one side all the way, then switch to the other, it will grind differently. Even if your platen, jig, and toolrest are perfectly square with each other, because of how much flex of the knife changes going from one side to the other.

Knowing that you can compensate for it but I'd rather take the time to flip the blade and have it backed up on both sides, but like you said, to each his own.
 
I'm open to suggestions for a better clamping method, it should be faster and easy to clamp unclamp if possible one handed.


Pablo
 
A better set up in my opinion and in actual use is a tilting table with extended arms , and two blocks of thick micarta to hold the blade. No need to change the blade from one side to the other so you can go from one grit to another for each blade side.
Frank

Yes , tilting table is best solution !! I look in one milion diferent jig on net .... don't like them............Complicated , heavy , no good grip , uncomfortable to hold , hard to control .......So , this is my solution , best one I can think for now . Some 6 X 4 centimeters aluminium rectangular tube, cut like in the picture, for holding the jig where the green line is . Stable and easy to hold and control.........full knife /blade / is supported , no bend ........
Something like on my picture .............of course no grip plier :) this is only probe

9u27a9.jpg


Steel is 1.5mm thick

359a89g.jpg
 
Pablo, check out the Kant twist clamps, they're great!
Jantz sells them or there are tutorials online how to make them if ordering is too expensive.

 
John, I can't understand the distal taper creating a problem in that you go from side to side as is done if you are holding the blade in your hand. You just swing the blade holder around and can do that at any time. The grinding all grits on one side and changing the blade over to do the other side will almost ensure the blade will need a curve removed before grinding on. That's what this simplistic method offers.
Frank
 
I understand Frank. I'm not saying the taper is the problem, but how it flexes differently when one side is thinned. They both have pros and cons. I don't step through grits any more in the jig. I rough in the bevels and then go freehand. Just use the jig to get my angles set accurately. We all come up with our own procedures.
 
I understand Frank. I'm not saying the taper is the problem, but how it flexes differently when one side is thinned. They both have pros and cons. I don't step through grits any more in the jig. I rough in the bevels and then go freehand. Just use the jig to get my angles set accurately. We all come up with our own procedures.

This ^^^ My concern would be with thinner longer stock (kitchen knives mostly)
 
When I was using a fully supportive jig I still had problems with flexing/bending of the blade when it got thinner. The distal taper ensures it doesn't touch the back support of the jig. I don't know how you guys take care of this?

Instead I started using a jig like Mr Niros, with the blade "free" at one side. I then use it like when I freehand, I support the blade with my other hand.
 
It can be supported by running a screw through from the back, as an adjustable rest button.
 
Pablo, check out the Kant twist clamps, they're great!
Jantz sells them or there are tutorials online how to make them if ordering is too expensive.


I have the local flavor of the same clamp, not bad but not as good at clamping, I was hoping to find something like a toggle clamp, googled but found none that can be easily adapted.


Pablo
 
It looks like a nice jig, but i can't see it being useful for grinding blades.
The dedication to set a specific angle is not motivate. Just scribing the centerline and the bevel height is enough for connecting them together freehand. It is where you apply force on the blade that the steel will get removed....dragging the bulky carriage won't actually help so much, at least in my experience.
Adding a cumbersome jig will impair sensitivity, promote overheating and won't eliminate the smiling grinds and the wobbles at all...so why bother?
I have not yet seen a grinding jig that can eliminate smiling and wobbling grinds (the real issues to face)...the rest is full machining, surface grinding or free hand grinding.
 
I use a jig that is super low tech but has worked great for years. It consists of two pieces of angle iron, approximately 3in in length, one square piece of mild steel that's 1/4in thick and 4in x 4in, two bolts, four washers, two nuts, and two pieces of duct tape.

Basically it works by clamping the blade between the two pieces of angle iron. The tang is the part of the blade that is clamped. There are two bolts that run through the angle iron pieces and under the tang/handle of the blade being clamped. Then I set the two pieces of angle iron on top the 4in x 4in piece of flat mild steel. I surface ground the 4in x 4in piece of mild steel that acts as the base. I think it's more precise to have a one piece, flat base in addition to the pieces of angle iron, because it's easier to insure that it's level. I welded one of the pieces of angle iron to the top of the flat base. I tried using epoxy at one point and, even with gflex, it would come loose once you torqued it down. You can make it work with epoxy but it's ideal to weld it imo. It acts as the anchor point to the base for the blade and other piece of angle iron.

I use bolts around an inch or so long and just let the non-welded side hang loose until I clamp it on a blade. If you want, you can drop a small piece of steel, a little thinner than the width of the stock you are grinding, into the bottom of the gap between the two pieces of angle iron. That way they don't squeeze together under the blade. If you're using epoxy then you REALLY need to do this because that is what causes the anchor point to break from the base when it's torqued down.

Finally, I put two pieces of duct tape on the bottom of the base so it will slide well and not scratch up the tool rest.

As far as use goes, it's pretty straight forward. I like to put a small level against the blade that's clamped and make sure the blade is exactly level vertically. I've found that it works best for me to use the two angle iron pieces to insure the blade is level vertically and the base to insure that everything is level horizontally. I had played around with just using two pieces of angle iron, but then you have to make sure they're level both ways.

I set the bevel angle on the platen using a couple angle finders. I like to use two of them just to be sure. Sometimes, if I'm using the jig to do a larger blade, I'll clamp a longer sheet of steel to my tool rest. It needs to be level and solid though. The whole system depends on everything being level and solid. That means thick pieces of steel with no flex.

In regards to providing distal support for the knife, behind the bevel being ground, I use my hand. I don't use a ton of pressure and I rest the heel of that hand on the tool rest and slide it across it with everything else. It functions to provide the distal support and let me know if the blade is getting too hot when grinding after heat treatment. It's honestly one of the only variables in the system that isn't "measurable" so to speak. Kuraki has me second guessing myself though now talking about the flex, from not having distal support on the blade. Decades of reloading ammo, assessing variables, measuring tolerances, and have made me a little overly meticulous and paranoid lol.

I was thinking I could rig up a piece of steel to go along the back of the blade, opposite the side being ground, and support it while it's being pressed against the platen. Id like to avoid having to take the blade out of the vise, so I think maybe just use two pieces of steel around 1.5in wide by 1/8in thick or so. One could be 8in long and the other could be 4in. I could weld the 4in piece to the 8in piece so one side would be 1/4in thick. That way the 1/8in side could be clamped to the angle iron and the 1/4in side would extend off the jig and be thick enough to contact, and support the back of the blade. When done grinding one side of the blade the support piece could be taken off and clamped behind the other side. This description is kind of awkward so I'll try and take a picture here in a minute then f what m thinking.

Sorry for the wall of text gents, pictures would have probably sufficed. Morning caffeine sometimes results in long-winded rants with me lol.
 
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Well, I'm now thinking some of the reasons this thing of mine works for me but can produce problems as John says. One is the fact I only grind on blades that are no more than 4" long from tip to ricasso and another factor that is helping to give me results not seen by others is all these small blades are ground after heat treat. Thanks for your persistence, John and I hope I haven't given too many members more trouble to deal with. I apologize to those that may have found my method frustrating and not usable.
Frank.
 
There's no need to apologize Frank. Your method works, and I bet works very well for shorter blades. Every jig that I've seen has something about it that you need to account for in use. None of them are perfect. I'm personally always appreciative of your input in threads and I'm betting everyone else is as well.
 
I have the local flavor of the same clamp, not bad but not as good at clamping, I was hoping to find something like a toggle clamp, googled but found none that can be easily adapted.


Pablo

Pablo, as I mentioned I am a fan of jigs, and I like yours so far--my favorite jigs use magnets to hold the blade in place, at set up, you simply set the blade against the magnets and then bottom it out on your work rest--this keeps it consistent, I also use a file guide clamped to the blade and squared against the side of the jig to get the plunge line in the same place on both sides of the blade, I would highly recommend trying magnets to hold blade stock against your jig.

Good luck--Don
 
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