My New Fixed Blade Pattern For [Light Backpacking]

[redsquid2]

I have been backpacking since the early 1970's, when I was about 10 years old. I carried various little folding knives until 1979, when I became the proud owner of a Buck 112. That was my standard backpack knife until around 1996, when I lightened my load with a SOG Air SOG. Then around 2013, I went smaller with a Buck Vantage Small.

Even though I often carry the Vantage, which is a folder, I thought of buying a Kershaw Skyline Fixed.

I sometimes muse on what would be a good fixed blade for light backpacking. Of course, a fixed blade is too much for some folks, who prefer a small folder. But I like to muse and give myself design challenges.

I came up with the pattern below. I am calling it the Hedgehog. This particular specimen is made of AEB-L. I personally prefer CPM 154, but I am going to start out by making a couple in AEB-L.

I am curious if some of you would find this pattern useful, for backpacking, EDC, or whatever. Of course I plan to lighten up the handle by drilling and/or grinding away more material.

Feedback appreciated.

Andy

 

[savage99]

I dig it but for backpacking I prefer a full flat grind or a very high flat grind

 

[redsquid2]

I dig it but for backpacking I prefer a full flat grind or a very high flat grind

Yes. Thank you. I have not finished the grind. I plan to grind it high.

 

[herisson]

Just my two cents here : with a 4" handle, I see no reason why your blade couldn't be at least 3 1/2 or 3 3/4". More cutting edge is better and the (very small) additionnal weight of no importance. And while the downward plunge looks good, I find straight blades / knives much more versatile.

 

[hexenjager]

What thickness is the blade stock?

 

[redsquid2]

Just my two cents here : with a 4" handle, I see no reason why your blade couldn't be at least 3 1/2 or 3 3/4". More cutting edge is better and the (very small) additionnal weight of no importance. And while the downward plunge looks good, I find straight blades / knives much more versatile.

Very interesting. I get obsessed sometimes with shaving off fractions of an ounce. I just tend to think "less is more," since about six years ago, when I started buying some ultralight gear. I read in Colin Fletcher's Complete Walker, a disposable plastic utility knife was sufficent, as long as your meals are freeze dried, and you don't have to split kindling.

By "straight blades / knives," you would be referring to a wharncliffe or a sheepsfoot, right?

 

[Steve6387]

I like it. I think the profile would be good for a general use blade. I am moving away from folders to small fixed blades for backpacking. They are easy to strap to the outside of a pack and you don't need to worry about peanut butter, other food, or muck getting into the joint.

Agree with Herisson in that a bit more blade length would be good. You can offset the addt'l weight with grinding or thinner stock.

 

[redsquid2]

What thickness is the blade stock?

1/8". I plan to give these a full flat grind, but I don't want the edge too thin.

 

[Faiaoga]

From what I remember about Colin Fletcher, his gear list included a fixed blade steel knife. I find it hard to imagine backpacking without some kind of sturdy fixed blade for emergency use - making a signal fire, cutting stretcher poles, building a shelter. The knife should not be needed, but it will be important if the need occurs.

 

[hexenjager]

1/8". I plan to give these a full flat grind, but I don't want the edge too thin.

Full flat grind. Three of my favorite words to hear from a knife maker. 1/8" stock and a full flat grind should make for a very "slicey" blade indeed, just what one wants from a small knife.

 

[pinnah]

My preferred carry for nearly all of my backpacking (year 'round in New Hampshire and Vermont) is the Opinel #10 Inox.

On rare occasions that I plan on having fires or plan on running a folding stove, I carry a Mora Companion.

I consider fixed blades to be "bad weight", particularly the sheath. The Opinel 10 is tough enough to do light battoning with and is very adequate for fire making duties in an emergency situation. For regular battoning, obviously, I prefer the Companion.

Some thoughts on design...

I like the 3.5" to 4" blade length much better than something in the 3" or less range.

I like my blade grind to be convex. I could stand a bit more convexity than the Opinel provides and I convex my Moras as soon as I get them. I've no interest in carrying a full flat grind in the woods and only carry a hollow grind for hunting.

I've tried a shorter Loveless-esque type fixed blade. Here's one made from one of those inexpensive SARGE knife kits.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

I find this style of knife too short for good food prep. I find the handle too small for effective wood working. I find the blade height (edge to spine) to be of no value or help.

But, end of the day... I think lightweight backpacking puts such a low demand on a knife that the number one criteria is that it makes you happy.

 

[strategy9]

I'd say, give a half inch or so to the blade, all flat-belly, more "choice" in edges, and make the handle a full 4" if not 4.25", and you got winner...

 

[bdmicarta]

Many years ago I did a lot of backpacking and always carried a Gerber LST. And I recall that I rarely used it for anything, so you don't need much of a knife for normal backpacking. If you envision cutting wood than the bumps up the requirements quite a bit. You also mention EDC and that blade seems like a good size for EDC.

 

[redsquid2]

From what I remember about Colin Fletcher, his gear list included a fixed blade steel knife. I find it hard to imagine backpacking without some kind of sturdy fixed blade for emergency use - making a signal fire, cutting stretcher poles,building a shelter. The knife should not be needed, but it will be important if the need occurs.

Right. When he walked the Pacific Crest Trail, around [1959?] he had a good size fixed blade. Maybe 5", judging by a picture I saw. He did all of his walking alone, and I don't think the trail was fully mapped at that time.

 

[pinnah]

Very interesting. I get obsessed sometimes with shaving off fractions of an ounce. I just tend to think "less is more," since about six years ago, when I started buying some ultralight gear. I read in Colin Fletcher's Complete Walker, a disposable plastic utility knife was sufficent, as long as your meals are freeze dried, and you don't have to split kindling.

From what I remember about Colin Fletcher, his gear list included a fixed blade steel knife. I find it hard to imagine backpacking without some kind of sturdy fixed blade for emergency use - making a signal fire, cutting stretcher poles,building a shelter. The knife should not be needed, but it will be important if the need occurs.

Right. When he walked the Pacific Crest Trail, around [1959?] he had a good size fixed blade. Maybe 5", judging by a picture I saw. He did all of his walking alone, and I don't think the trail was fully mapped at that time.

Things changed in backpacking dramatically between Fletcher's 1959 PCT hike and his 1963 hike of the Grand Canyon. My recollection is that by time he did the Grand Canyon, he had switched to an SAK.

One might describe the shift from the 50s to the 60s as a move away from military surplus and/or hunting equipment to dedicated backpacking equipment, first from Europe and second from the US natively.

Here is a great quote from the 2nd edition (1967) of Harvey Manning's "Freedom of the Hills" that I think nicely captures the spirit of the change. Manning advocated for a SAK/Boy Scout style knife, saying...

"For special purposes a hunting knife is superior, as are double-bitted axes, cavalry sabers, Gatling guns, and dynamite, but a modest mountaineer contents himself with a modest blade."

Ray Jardine is typically pointed to as the father of the ultralite movement, which has taken minimalism to a whole new level. And of course Messner, Chouinard and others pioneered the lightweight alpinist movement, which is similar. The basic upshot is that speed (enabled by light weight), shelter, sleep system, clothing and stove taken together as a system make fire building unneeded.

For UL, trips, I've settled on the Leatherman PS4 Squirt. If I'm sticking to pre-prepared meals, even the Opinel is unnecessary (but fun) weight.


Outdoor Carry by Pinnah, on Flickr

 

[MaximIsayev]

Good blade design, should work very well for EDC but for backpacking wouldn't you want a slightly longer blade? It would be more convenient for tasks like food prep which is usually the most common task for a knife in a backpacking situation. As for using an Opinel in that situation, I wouldn't really recommend it as cleaning out old food and grease from the pivot is a pain on those knives, plus it takes only a little bit of moisture for the handle to swell and for the blade to get stuck.

 

[greatscoot]

Looks like a really nice EDC and it would definitely make it into my rotation. I would agree that the blade length may be a little to short for a backpacking knife.

 

[mtangent]

I like small FB. With all these suggestions, always go back to your original design brief. You want it light. You already have several examples of knives that have worked well.

Things I have learned:
- handle length is more important than blade length. If the handle is too short, it just won't work properly.
- handle length adds more weight due to scales, than blade length.
- don't go wharncliffe. On a small blade, the belly helps a lot on large tasks.

Work out what is the harshest thing you plan to do. Not battoning will open a lot of options for weight reduction. e.g. stick tang, lighter stock, more stock removed.

There are already 6000 designs of 4 inch blades with 4 inch handles. Take your own path.

Pinnah's suggestion that high blade width doesn't help is good, IMO. You can lose a lot of weight there, or add length for the same weight. Think puuko style: these knives are light, general purpose, & have good length for the weight. Most comfortable handles ever.

1/8 stock with FFG is a good starting point, too.

 

[wensynch]

I have something like that a la wharncliffe.

 

[cbach8tw]

I like your design, I also think a 4 finger grip is important, and I would also increase the blade length to 3 - 3 1/2 inches (my personal preference only). You can lighten it up a bit either by skeletonizing the blade tang or tapering it to the back. I have also liked some of the modern versions of the Otz knife, where even if the blade is smaller, the handle length is longer for better control. I have the Fallkniven Wm1 and it looks close to your design, can you buy or borrow one from someone to see how you like that size? Just an idea. What about scales, handmade or wooden? Lastly, while 1/8 is my favorite thickness for smaller knives, if it is for light back packing, would 3/32 work if for slicing unless planning to baton? Keep us informed.