My new forge is up and running

Steven Kelly

Steven Kelly

Joined
Nov 18, 2007
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I just got my new forge all finished up and running. It is a thousand percent improvement over my old N.C. Knifemaker forge. I am running 2 1/2 lbs of propane pressure and getting 2380 degrees. It went from room temp to 2000 degrees in 4 min.
It measures in at 16" diameter on the body and 18" deep. It has a double 1" kaowool lining. And a bottom of 2 layers of 1 1/4" firebrick with a piece of 1/2" kaowool sandwiched in the middle.
My buddy Dave over at H20 Waterjet & Fabrication cut the parts and helped me with the fab work on the body.
We built this forge a bit different than most of the ones I have seen. We split the bottom of the pipe and welded a 2 1/2" bottom foot all the way around. That gave some extra depth for the bottom and allowed everything to sit flat. We also welded a band around the front and rear plate. The rear plate is welded in solid. But, the front plate is held on with removable pins so that it can be taken off for re-lining.

I want to thank everyone who have so freely shared their forge building info. It really helped me with this project.
 

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My forge is getting ready to be re-lined, do you think the extra layer of kaowool is worth it? I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Did you also coat with a refractory like satanite? I am all for more making things more efficient and saving propane.

Thanks

Oh, and by the way great looking forge!
 
Very nice. Is that blower set up on a dial control to slow/speed up the blower? If so very clever idea compared to just putting a gate valve on it to adjust the air flow.
 
Mike,
I don't know if the 2nd layer of Kaowool will add anything or not. But, I know it won't hurt. I will be lining the inside with refactory. I just want to get the little bugs worked out first....

Fletch,
That is a fan speed controller to adjust air flow.

Papa Smurf,
There is a back door. It is a mirror to the front door. I have a couple of bricks blocking it off until I need it open
 
Steven

I'm curious about the effects of the refractory once it is in place, i.e temp ramp speed, and difference in temp with same setting currently in place.

Thanks
 
Mike Quesenberry said:
Steven

I'm curious about the effects of the refractory once it is in place, i.e temp ramp speed, and difference in temp with same setting currently in place.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Mike,
I'll let you know..
Last night with no refactory, it took 4 min to reach 2000 degrees....
 
The extra kaowool is a must. Three inches is even better.

Watch running the forge without a coating on the wool; it gets airborne quite easily and is not good for the lungs.

Adding a layer of ITC-100 to the surface of the clay really helps to get the temperature up in a hurry.

Fred
 
Mike Quesenberry said:
Crazy fast! I hate wasting propane.
Click to expand...

Hey mike,

I fired up the new forge last night after the satenite had a chance to dry for a couple of days. It is running about 22 degrees hotter and seems to heat up a bit faster than it did before I put it in.

I am now waiting for my new blower to arrive. I built the forge with a fasco blower that I had here. It says it puts out 240cfm. but, it just seems to not be getting enough air. So, I ordered a blower from Kayne & Sons. It should be here on Tues or Wed. I will see how much of an improvement it makes..
 
Had the forge going on Thursday and noticed the ceiling falling. Going with the double kaowool. Thanks for the info.
 
Steven Kelly said:
If you coat the kaowool with refactory, it will stabilize the insulation and help stop that problem!!
Click to expand...

I sprayed it with the itc100 this is rigidizer I believe, not an expert at forges. Do you know if I should apply the itc 100 first and then the satanite? Also, should both layers of kaowool get the itc 100? Thanks for the help.
 
I'm not sure about the ITC. I have never used it. I only coated the outside of the last layer of kaowool and the firebrick on the floor
 
Looks like you've got it all going your way. Nice job. Did you have to do anything special to eliminate hot/cold spots or did the temperature of the chamber equalize from the start?

Gary
 
I haven't actually heated any steel in it yet. But, it seems to be heating pretty evenly just from looking into it through welding goggles..
 
If your flame is swirling around the chamber, I would think that it is pretty equal. I've only used verticle forges so was asking out of curiousity. Maybe one of these times I will build a horizontal one and like your design.

I have gotten used to having a long jointed arm on the front of the forge for holding the handle of a billet level. Does the horizontal design eliminate the need for one?

Gary
 
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