My new knife with Thai Rosewood

Dick

Dick

Joined
Nov 7, 2004
Messages
366
I n the picture is Thai Rosewood which I do stbilize myself .
The finishing is withoput any final coating but Nano Wax and buffing wheel at 1480 RPM motor




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Well done, but why the ressesed thong tube? You might in the future, with use, see some chipping.
 
Very nice, love the shape and handle, but the thong hole is a potential problem. Good looking sheath too.:thumbup:
 
I don't believe there is a thong tube. It looks like he drilled the tang, and matched the hole through the scales to it. This will, indeed, cause chipping with the thin wood at the handle butt. If the tang hole is the same as the handle holes, he can still add a tube and epoxy it in.

Other than that problem, the knife looks great.
 
I appreciate on comments on thong tube.
Thanks a lot, I am still new for knife making.

Thanks again.
 
bladsmth said:
I don't believe there is a thong tube. It looks like he drilled the tang, and matched the hole through the scales to it. This will, indeed, cause chipping with the thin wood at the handle butt. If the tang hole is the same as the handle holes, he can still add a tube and epoxy it in.

Other than that problem, the knife looks great.
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ok this is great reccommendation.
Really appreciate.
 
That sandblasted wood sure looks grippy!
My first thought was: a beautifull knife like that deserves a leather sheeth.
Beautifull work, mate
 
Very nice work.

I would never have thought to sandblast the scales, but you've really got a great idea there. That makes it look almost like driftwood you find on the beach, and I'd bet it provides a much better grip than the super-smooth wood we normally see.

Did you sandblast after attaching the scales to the blade? What type of media are you using? Is the stabilized or natural?

Excellent work, hoss.
 
VaughnT said:
Very nice work.

I would never have thought to sandblast the scales, but you've really got a great idea there. That makes it look almost like driftwood you find on the beach, and I'd bet it provides a much better grip than the super-smooth wood we normally see.

Did you sandblast after attaching the scales to the blade? What type of media are you using? Is the stabilized or natural?

Excellent work, hoss.
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Let me sharing a little bit of Sand Blasting idea;

There 2 main shape of Blasting Media:

1. Free Form .......these are silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, natural sand.corn cob, walnut shell, plastic media etc.

2. Round Shape....Glass Bead, steel ball etc.

Normally if we want to blast the Heat Treated steel surface,we need to go for the abrasive media in the first group but the result of the steel surface will be darklish. Busse do Double Cut by using Glass Bead to blast the blasted surface to get shiny result in other case if we were to use glass bead to blast the heated steel surface then we will never get good result as the glass bead is not sharp enough

As for the wood we can use any blasting media and they will always get the same result though each type and each size of abrasive are not the same aggressive. You have to test it by yourself and check the result frequently before the part is over blasted.

The blasting process should avoid the direct impact of abrasive to hit the unwanted area otherwise it may end up you need to replace new handle matirial for full tang type of handle.

Before blasting the handle shape need to be weldone first.


The wood that I use is natural wood but I stabilize them just like all other wooden matirial we have, however stbilized or not still have the same result. You just need to do like spreying the paint to object.
 
You can get the same effect as sandblasting by using a wire wheel on your scales.
 
Dick said:
I appreciate on comments on thong tube.
Thanks a lot, I am still new for knife making.

Thanks again.
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And all those pieces of steel in that one picture are knife blanks? :eek:

If so you are really hitting the ground running. That's a lot of blanks for someone new. Nice pieces by the way. :thumbup:
 
Fletch Helical said:
And all those pieces of steel in that one picture are knife blanks? :eek:

If so you are really hitting the ground running. That's a lot of blanks for someone new. Nice pieces by the way. :thumbup:
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Don't be fooled. Dick's idea of being new at knife making and ours might not be the same. Check out some of his other threads....

Thanks for sharing with us Dick. (I venture to guess we would not be able to pronounce your Thai name.)

All the best, Phil
 
Phil Dwyer said:
Don't be fooled. Dick's idea of being new at knife making and ours might not be the same. Check out some of his other threads....

Thanks for sharing with us Dick. (I venture to guess we would not be able to pronounce your Thai name.)

All the best, Phil
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Thanks Phil :)

The fact is I am not a good Knife Maker and really not there.:)
There a lot of local Thai Knife Makers whio are gifted.
They have been doing good knives for long time with very basic hand tools.

For us we just try to develop something for knife making with engineering approach.
We have local webside similar to this webside and share with our local people.
In doing this we had gathered a lot of local professional to join with us for example high capable Metalurgist.......machining shop etc.
All what we had done were with the engineering approach and I spent most of my time in Material Surface Finishing Company.
 
WOW!

Dick,
I checked out the links to your shop photos that Phil posted. Very nice setup. There is enough machinery there to keep any grinding fanatic busy for a long time!

I really like the idea of using a surface grinder. Until now, I was thinking that a horizontal platen on a standard grinder or some other type of horizontal four or six inch grinder would be fine for doing the flats, but after seeing you surface grinder I have a whole new perspective. Very cool!:thumbup:
 
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