My new Manix, review and observations

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Dec 9, 2005
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For my birthday my wife was nice enough to buy me a PE Spyderco Manix, and even asked New Graham to pick out the one with the least blade play (they told her all had just a hint of play, and sent the tightest one)! What a wife!

For a description from the Spyderco website: http://spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=165

Initial Impressions, Fit & Finish, Ergonomics

This is a massive knife, with a 3.75" S30V blade, Steel lined G-10 Handles, and a very strong backlock. It weighs just over 6 oz. and has an OAL just under 9". My initial impressions of the fit and finish were that it has very good fit and finish. Not quite the level of the Benchmade Rukus (http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=610) I used in the passaround, but damned close. The Benchmade is around $50 more expensive, and a little larger than the Manix, but in the same class of knife. The blade is centered when closed, has only the faintist hint of vertical play when open, the G-10 bevels are ground evenly, and it is very smooth for a lockback. The Spyderhole is great for opening the blade, even with a gloved hand. The jimping is different than the passaround Manix I used was, as it is closely spaced lines on the thumb ramp, like the mini manix I used in the passaround. It passes the spine whack test with no issues. This test involved some quick, light hits of the spine on a table and a couple heavier hits, but nothing excessive. The G-10 is very grippy, and the knife feels great in the hand and large in the pocket. The ergonomics are great for multiple grips, and I really like the choil for choking up for precise cuts. It balances with your front two fingers on the grip, and feels great for me in my standard "thrusting" type grip, where my thumb is on the thumb ramp and hand on the handle in the standard position. It comes right hand tip down, which I plan on changing to right hand tip up. I wish the extra clip holes had screws in them, and I wish the clip was more rounded, or better yet a low carry, HD wire clip. After using the factory clip on the passaround Manix it cuts into your hands on heavy cuts if you don't use gloves. It gives the impression of a high quality, extremely stout folder.

Sharpness and Edge Qualities

Now, to the famous "Spyderco Sharp" part. It is extremely sharp, able to shave hair above the arm, and shows a toothy edge, similar to the one my Native had from the factory, under magnification. The top of the edge bevel is .020"-.021" thick, ground around 12.5 degrees per side based on my trig (between just under 12 degrees and just over 13 degrees along the length). It is full flat ground, leaf shaped, with a full distal taper. The tip is very thin and pointy, just how I like them.

For pushcutting newsprint (The San Francisco Chronicle), it averaged 3.14" away from the point of hold, with all cuts between 3" and 3.25".

For pushcutting the SBC Yellow Pages, it averaged 1.34", with all results between 1.25" and 1.375", extremely consistent, as every cut but one was right around 1 3/8".

As a high end reference, I tested a razor blade of unknown origin in my tool box, and it manages to pushcut newsprint at an average 4.78" from the point of hold, with all cuts between 4.5" and 5.19". It push cut the yellow pages at an average of 2.91" from the point of hold, with all results between 2.75" and 3". I plan on getting new utility blades to retest as a high end number, as this blade is several years old, though it didn't have any corrosion at the edge.

Those are very impressive pushcutting numbers for a factory knife, especially considering the blade also has great slicing aggression.


Things I Would Change

As for things I would change, first would be to a low profile, heavy duty wire clip. It may not look as nice as the clip on it now, but functionally would be much more comfortable, espescially on tough cuts. After handling a D'allara in the store the wire clip's ergos just blow me away, enough to say screw the looks, that just feels good in the hand. I wish the extra clip holes were filled, also as stated earlier. I like the jimping on the thumb ramp, and would like to see some jimping on the choil. It would be nice if it was thinner in the pocket, but I am willing to sacrafice that for the handle and blade shape, as they are great when open. I also would have liked to see the edge a little thinner and around 10 degrees per side, but I'm sure that will happen when I have tested out the factory edge and want to spend some quality time with the knife and my DMT benchstones. I will then go with Spyderco stones for the 15 degree microbevel, and that should leave good geometry for a heavy duty cutting tool.

Personal Note About S30V and Chipping

As a side note, if I do initially see problems with chipping, I will give it several tries with a 15 degree microbevel on the factory edge, and if it doesn't go away I will send it in to Spyderco before I do any reprofiling. My Native initially had chipping (on light cardboard and plastic), but it went away after several sharpenings. I know Sal Glesser has said all of Spyderco's steels should be able to handle 15 degrees with no problem, so if it does chip and several 15 degree sharpenings don't make it go away I think Spyderco should take a good look at it, and hopefully remedy the situation. Most likely chipping won't even be an issue, but having my first knife in S30V chip some does tend to keep it at the front of your mind.

Summary

I am happy with the knife, as it is what I wanted for my heavy duty folder. The knife is very comfortable in the hand, and gives you an extreme sense of strength when you use it. Spyderco has very good blade geometry and very good sharpness, as is usual for them. This is a heavy duty cutting tool, not an overbuilt hunk of metal with a blade so thick it's no longer a good cutter, as is often seen in this class of knife. The main drawbacks that I see are that the weight and size in the pocket will turn some people off, and that the clip can cut into your hand on very heavy cuts. Otherwise it fits the bill as a very good, very heavy duty cutting tool, that is also capable of some detail work due to it's choil and fine tip. Now I just have to hope I didn't get a "chippy" one. I will have fun finding out, and maybe customer service, or better yet a Phil Wilson rehardening can help me if I do have any issues.
 
I think the wire clips look better because they don't get the finish worn off of them or at least as easily as they're smaller than a conventional clip.
 
The top of the edge bevel is .020"-.021" thick, ground around 12.5 degrees per side based on my trig (between just under 12 degrees and just over 13 degrees along the length).

That is nice to see on a blade that size. The user can apply a more robust edge bevel if desired for rough metal cutting and the like which is far easier than doing the opposite.

Those are very impressive pushcutting numbers, especially considering the blade also has great slicing aggression.

Yeah, the have a nice combination of sharpness in both forms, Dozier does as well. Nice details.

After handling a D'allara in the store the wire clips ergos just blow me away, enough to say screw the looks, that just feels good in the hand.

Yeah, I really like the wire clips as well, almost to the point where the clip isn't an issue. I have used some hell for bad ones, some so sharp/square that a hard thrust into a phonebook actually caused the clip to cut open my hand. I think as a basic requirement, the only part of the knife which is sharp enough to cut should be the edge. I really don't think that is too much to ask.

I also would have liked to see the edge a little thinner and around 10 degrees per side ...

So would I, but I can see where they went a little heavier on a knife of this size and it is still very acute in general. Consider the sillyness that exists in other knives such as the 30+ degree one noted recently in the toolshed.

... but having my first knife ...

It is really hard to remove a dramatic first bad impression. This is why in general when it happens most companies will go out of their way to make it up to you. The knife industry is unique in that the roles are often reversed, at least on the forums anyway, but I think this is mainly a severe fan based influence.

-Cliff
 
That is nice to see on a blade that size. The user can apply a more robust edge bevel if desired for rough metal cutting and the like which is far easier than doing the opposite.

Agreed 100%.



Yeah, the have a nice combination of sharpness in both forms, Dozier does as well. Nice details.

Thanks. I haven't had the pleasure of trying out a Dozier yet, but I would like to.



Yeah, I really like the wire clips as well, almost to the point where the clip isn't an issue. I have used some hell for bad ones, some so sharp/square that a hard thrust into a phonebook actually caused the clip to cut open my hand. I think as a basic requirement, the only part of the knife which is sharp enough to cut should be the edge. I really don't think that is too much to ask

Yeah, some knives just have terribly sharp clips. Some I have just taken off they were so bad. I think worst case I may have STR do a low ride, well rounded clip for this one. If not I may configure it for left hand carry, as I carry my wallet in my right front pocket, and since the Manix is so large it makes extraction difficult. If I go lefty, I only have to reach for my keys in that pocket, plus my right hand won't suffer from the clip on hard cuts, though I'm not sure how my fingers will react on the other side of the knife to the clip.



So would I, but I can see where they went a little heavier on a knife of this size and it is still very acute in general. Consider the sillyness that exists in other knives such as the 30+ degree one noted recently in the toolshed.

Yeah, I've been using such thin knives lately that I think I get carried away in my head sometimes. This is actually a pretty amazingly thin and acute edge on a knife of this strength and magnitude to come from the factory like this. Many still consider an edge like this factory one way too thin for a light duty tool, let alone a tank like the Manix. Kudos to Spyderco for giving us good geometry from the factory to work with.

I almost choked when I saw that post about the 30 degree per side knife, like I said in that thread my lawnmower blade looks thinner than that. Is it still actually a knife at 60 degrees included?



It is really hard to remove a dramatic first bad impression. This is why in general when it happens most companies will go out of their way to make it up to you. The knife industry is unique in that the roles are often reversed, at least on the forums anyway, but I think this is mainly a severe fan based influence.

Well, I was disappointed at first and posted a complaint thread in the Toolshed forum when the Native chipped. I was a severe newbie, but had read about the chipping and was pissed that I got a chipping blade too. However, after several sharpenings (including a couple where I thought the chipping was gone but it chipped one final time after that), the knife has performed great. When I returned my Endura Wave that had excessive blade play (they replaced it), I sent the Native in for a factory sharpening. It didn't chip after that, and now I have it ground real thin, and have to test it out. Again, the odds are that I won't have any problems with my Manix, but first impressions are hard to shake.
 
Thanks. I haven't had the pleasure of trying out a Dozier yet, but I would like to.

His edges are actually rather thick/obtuse compared to what you have been working with lately. A large step down from the general tacticals but still far more robust than Wilson/Boye. He has offered in the past to resharpen blades so you might want to drop him an email.


Many still consider an edge like this factory one way too thin for a light duty tool, let alone a tank like the Manix.

Yeah, an unfortunately side effect of a lot of issues about steel choices and heat treatment. One rather obvious question would be why is it that the edges on large chopping bowies and wood axes like Bruks are more acute than a lot of folding knives. This should be an obvious severe point of contention.

I almost choked when I saw that post about the 30 degree per side knife, like I said in that thread my lawnmower blade looks thinner than that. Is it still actually a knife at 60 degrees included?

In the same way that Butterbean in tights is a ballet dancer.

-Cliff
 
His edges are actually rather thick/obtuse compared to what you have been working with lately. A large step down from the general tacticals but still far more robust than Wilson/Boye. He has offered in the past to resharpen blades so you might want to drop him an email.

I will drop him a line, it is very interesting seeing the difference in edges that the great ones like Dale and Spyderco put on the knives, I'd love to work with a Dozier sharpened knife. Actually I'd rather work with a Dozier built knife, but my wife won't allow it, at least for a while.




Yeah, an unfortunately side effect of a lot of issues about steel choices and heat treatment. One rather obvious question would be why is it that the edges on large chopping bowies and wood axes like Bruks are more acute than a lot of folding knives. This should be an obvious severe point of contention.

It would seem like an obvious point of contention, but I seriously doubt the vast majority of the knife buying public has any clue about the fact that many choppers are more acute than their folders. When a limited edition, small ZDP 189 folder comes with an edge as thick as the Manix but at over 25 degrees per side from the factory (no need to name names), it makes me happy that all of the Spydercos I have used have a very cutting focused edge geometry in both thickness and angle, and their steels are run fairly hard for production knives, espescially on ZDP and even on the inexpensive Byrds.



In the same way that Butterbean in tights is a ballet dancer.
-Cliff

LMAO!
 
Well, I just cut through a very heavy duty cardboard tube (over 1/4" thick, 3' long, and over 3" in diameter). My G-10 Cara Cara couldn't get too far into this tube due to wedging, but the Manix went right through it, though it did take a lot of force. The first cut was a straight pushcut, which took a lot of force, and the clip was definately biting my hand. The second cut I did a slice cut (push in, pull out, cutting downward the whole time) and it went through with less force, but still took quite a bit of force to get the cut done. The blade was quite warm to the touch after the cutting. It still shaves easily. The good news is there is no sign of chipping at all, though I will check it under magnification when I get the chance. My Native chipped out visibly to the eye on thin cardboard, so it looks like I shouldn't have trouble with chipping (fingers crossed).
 
Looking forward to your giving this one a good going-over, gunmike. My experiences with S30V haven't been happy ones .... even trying to run a 15 deg./side primary and 20 deg. microbevel the two Spydercos I've had in this steel would microchip during sharpening, edge retention suffered accordingly; last one got worse after several thorough sharpenings as well. Nothing visible to the naked eye - I never made it past basic testing on cardboard - so interested what you see under magnification.

I'd like to think that a $100 Manix is a better knife than a $17 Cara Cara but at this point I need convincing.
 
Looking forward to your giving this one a good going-over, gunmike. My experiences with S30V haven't been happy ones .... even trying to run a 15 deg./side primary and 20 deg. microbevel the two Spydercos I've had in this steel would microchip during sharpening, edge retention suffered accordingly; last one got worse after several thorough sharpenings as well. Nothing visible to the naked eye - I never made it past basic testing on cardboard - so interested what you see under magnification.

I'd like to think that a $100 Manix is a better knife than a $17 Cara Cara but at this point I need convincing.

Well, under a 10X loupe it has no chips. My lighted magniscope went dead, and I don't have any AAA's around, so I'll have to wait to examine it closer. I can understand your frustration, I got lucky that my Native straightened out it's act after sharpening and that this Manix didn't chip on me on these cuts. I will try it on some wood if I can get my hands on some, but that was some damn tough cuts it made without chipping. I mean I was putting some serious force into it, even a bit of lateral force just to continue the cut, and it is clean under 10X so I am happy so far. I guess when S30V is done right it's pretty good, but can be just terrible when you get a bad one.

I agree with you on the Byrd steel though, that is some really good, easy sharpening stuff that holds a very respectable edge. At low angles it gets really sharp, too. Hard to believe the performance for the money.
 
Well, under a 10X loupe it has no chips. My lighted magniscope went dead, and I don't have any AAA's around, so I'll have to wait to examine it closer. I can understand your frustration, I got lucky that my Native straightened out it's act after sharpening and that this Manix didn't chip on me on these cuts. I will try it on some wood if I can get my hands on some, but that was some damn tough cuts it made without chipping. I mean I was putting some serious force into it, even a bit of lateral force just to continue the cut, and it is clean under 10X so I am happy so far. I guess when S30V is done right it's pretty good, but can be just terrible when you get a bad one.

I agree with you on the Byrd steel though, that is some really good, easy sharpening stuff that holds a very respectable edge. At low angles it gets really sharp, too. Hard to believe the performance for the money.
What you're reporting sounds encouraging. I like to examine edges at 40x or greater which makes estimated measurements of the damage easier. Generally when S30V has problems a fine edge degrades pretty fast on light cardboard.

The Cara Cara's steel and heat treat has really impressed me too, and I have to assume the 8Cr13MoV is much easier and less expensive to heat treat than S30V. Makes you wonder if Spyderco could potentially hurt sales of their US line with these.
 
What you're reporting sounds encouraging. I like to examine edges at 40x or greater which makes estimated measurements of the damage easier. Generally when S30V has problems a fine edge degrades pretty fast on light cardboard.

The Cara Cara's steel and heat treat has really impressed me too, and I have to assume the 8Cr13MoV is much easier and less expensive to heat treat than S30V. Makes you wonder if Spyderco could potentially hurt sales of their US line with these.

Yeah, I have a 60-100X lighted radioshack special that I always use, it's much better than the loupe, but like I said I'm out of AAA's. It has helped my sharpening tremendously. My Native chipped out on basically paper like cardboard, chips visible to the naked eye. Like I said, luckily that problem went away. The Manix went through the toughest cardboard I've ever cut with no apparent chips, so I am definately optimistic, but I will keep a very close eye on it. Since it still shaves smoothly the edge seems to be holding up very well, I will test it on all sorts of plastics, cardboards, tie wraps, ect. after the family Christmas presents are opened. That should be a good test, as some of the straps and ties on packaging is pretty tough stuff.

Edit to add: The Cara Cara and it's steel really make me think twice about my Endura's. The Byrd steel and knives are that good. I think most will prefer the slightly better fit and finish of the Spyderco's and the VG-10, but 8Cr13MoV impresses me more the more I use it. It won't hold a dull (working ) edge as long as VG-10 or S30V, but it sure can take a mean polished edge at a low angle that stays that way for a good while. Hard to believe the performance for the price.
 
Gunmike-
Nice review.
What are you planning on using the Manix for?

I think as a basic requirement, the only part of the knife which is sharp enough to cut should be the edge.

Yeah, that would be a rather basic baseline for ergonomics.

I have never used a wire clip from Spyderco, makes me want to try one.
 
Gunmike-
Nice review.
What are you planning on using the Manix for?

Heavy Duty EDC. Truthfully, I don't see too much HD EDC, but I figure it could be good for me when I'm camping or hiking. Plus, since I've been getting into really thin knives lately, there are a lot of things that might require a somewhat heavy twisting cut that would just put a serration in those blades from a huge chip. I fugure I can cut speaker small speaker wire, really heavy cardboard packages like the one I tested it on, pointing hard woods, and various other things like old carpet, ect. It won't be a safe queen, I will get my use out of it.
 
My Native chipped out on basically paper like cardboard, chips visible to the naked eye.

This is actually very interesting because there is no way the strain rate is high enough to make impact toughness an issue, and thus it has to be a strength problem. It would seem most likely to be one of too coarse a grain structure, in ingot steels the carbides could also aggregate, but this is very unlikely in P/M. As support, if this was the problem (strength, grain) you would expect the edges to be too soft, which is indeed the case when people have had them rehardened. Note how this directly contradicts common perception on tempering high carbide steels for edge toughness.

I have never used a wire clip from Spyderco, makes me want to try one.

Easily done, drop me an email.

-Cliff
 
This is actually very interesting because there is no way the strain rate is high enough to make impact toughness an issue, and thus it has to be a strength problem. It would seem most likely to be one of too coarse a grain structure, in ingot steels the carbides could also aggregate, but this is very unlikely in P/M. As support, if this was the problem (strength, grain) you would expect the edges to be too soft, which is indeed the case when people have had them rehardened. Note how this directly contradicts common perception on tempering high carbide steels for edge toughness.
-Cliff

It wasn't quite paper thin, but it was pretty thin cardboard, and a couple thin packing straps. I've never had another knife chip on anything that light duty. It has gotten better after several sharpenings, not chipping out on thick cardboard or anything else I can think of (I never really tested it on anything much tougher that I can remember), and now I've thinned it out significantly. When I go to polish the edge, if it just crumbles I will look into getting it rehardened to see if that helps. It takes a toothy, pretty sharp edge from 600 DMT, but we'll see what happens on the Spyderco ceramics (if I ever get off my butt and clean them).

As for the Manix, I cut through some old credit cards last night a got a small microchip near the tip. I twisted starting that cut, kind of asking for trouble, and under my radioshack scope there is a small chip, not visible to the naked eye. After going through all of the Christmas present packages and strapping associated with them I will repost on how the edge holds out, and then we'll see how it takes to a good microbevel sharpening. I'll try to test the sharpness through the different grits, from DMT 600 to Ultra Fine Spyderco, and see if stropping helps or hurts. I really need .5 micron diamond paste, as I hear the CrO that I'm using on my strop doesn't work well on the high Vanadium steels.
 
I have cut up a bit more cardboard (1/8" ridged) and opened a couple thick plastic packages with no more edge damage. The knife can still pushcut copier paper a little roughly and scrape shave, very dull for my tastes, but I will probably wait until after doing a bunch of cutting on the Christmas present packaging to see how long it holds this working type edge. Normally when my knives get to this point they go in the drawer until I get time to sharpen them, but I guess I should at least initially use S30V for what it was designed for, holding a serviceable edge for long time. It is hard to get used to using a knife at this level of sharpness, I guess I am addicted to having nice, really sharp edges. Of course, at the beginning of this year I would have considered this sharp, but with my newfound sharpening hobby my perspectives have changed drastically.
 
Cutting credit cards, even aggressively, should not be a concern for a knife of that style, or in fact for pretty much anything out side of something very radical.

Yeah, hopefully we shall start seeing some more use of the steels which are designed to take and hold a very high sharpness. Sal has noted interest in 13C26 and hopefully it is offered significant 60+ hrc. 19C27 and other similar steels, W1 (1.5% carbon), O7, and maybe one day a limited run in F2 which is pretty much perfection in that class of steel.

-Cliff
 
Cutting credit cards, even aggressively, should not be a concern for a knife of that style, or in fact for pretty much anything out side of something very radical.

It is a pretty small chip, only seen under high magnification, but like you said it probably shouldn't have chipped, period. It is much better than my Native's original performance, though. As long as it doesn't turn itself into a saw blade with a lot of chipping after Christmas cutting I will thin it out to 10 degrees with a 15 degree microbevel. I will then go back to my normal rule of if it can't shave smoothly I can't carry it. I think you have forever spoiled my perception of what sharp is by lending me your Modified Fallkniven U2, it makes my Manix edge in this state of sharpness (only scrape shaving) seem like a spoon.

Yeah, hopefully we shall start seeing some more use of the steels which are designed to take and hold a very high sharpness. Sal has noted interest in 13C26 and hopefully it is offered significant 60+ hrc. 19C27 and other similar steels, W1 (1.5% carbon), O7, and maybe one day a limited run in F2 which is pretty much perfection in that class of steel.
-Cliff

It would be great to see what Sal could do with some high hardness 13C26 with great geometry. Considering how good the mod U2 you let me borrow performs at <.005" and 4 degrees per side with a high carbide steel, I imagine similar geometry with 13C26 would be a real eye opener for extreme sharpness and holding that extremely sharp edge.

I am going to start studying the other steels you mentioned, unfortunately I have been lacking in my metallurgy studies due to being new to the hobby and having limited time. My introduction to most steels has been by using the steel, or by the knife manufacturer's desciptions, which understandibly will promote the strengths of those steels without mentioning the drawbacks or tradeoffs. I have started reading some Verhoeven, and some of the summaries on your webpage, but the engineer in me definately needs to make more time to read up on more steels, especially the properties of some of those steeels not commonly used in production knives. I also have much to learn about heat treating, as we have seen with the differences with the performance of S30V, proper heat treating can make a tremendous difference in the performance and properties of a given steel.
 
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