My new saw for cutting blade stock.

I found a used Milwaukee for about $80 including extra blades and then had a table flat given to me. I built a frame for the table and it's been great.
I don't know how I got along without one before this. I use the foot pedal as well.

Great purchase!
 
I'll have to keep this in mind when my HF dies, your setup looks like a smaller footprint in the shop also. Nice!
 
DanF said:
I'll have to keep this in mind when my HF dies, your setup looks like a smaller footprint in the shop also. Nice!
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It has much smaller foot print, that was one of the deciding factors in getting it.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
I have the same set up and love it! I do use the foot pedal though, works great.

For saw blades I use these and I like them better than the lennox
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I second the MK Morse blades. They're great.

I was a hair away from pulling the trigger on the Milwaukee/Swag table combo.
In the end I went with a Femi 783 XL variable speed hem saw that has a an optional table you clamp in the vice.

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It has its pros and cons. Pros are less issues with cutting depth, its dual functions (table easy to remove and put back), a bit longer blade, no issues with sawn off pieces jamming the blade, and table wont go ayywhere. Cons are less ability to finely adjust the 90° blade/table angle, but it's not really an issue with the thin stock cut for blades I think. And I can't use foot switch with it.
 
Scaniaman said:
It has its pros and cons. Pros are less issues with cutting depth, its dual functions (table easy to remove and put back), a bit longer blade, no issues with sawn off pieces jamming the blade, and table wont go ayywhere. Cons are less ability to finely adjust the 90° blade/table angle, but it's not really an issue with the thin stock cut for blades I think. And I can't use foot switch with it.
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I have one of these, it does its job pretty well. Would have liked it to have a tad more power though.

For convenience and safety I installed a foot switch. It's a straight forward installation, just clamp the run button and replace the contactor with a foot switch (https://www.conrad.com/o/foot-switches-1409036).
 
I have to get one of these when I kill my next harbor freight saw. I’ve killed 5 of them so far but they’ve replaced them all because I’ve bought the warranty. The bearings suck and I’m tired of replacing them.
Thanks for sharing your setups guys.
 
Josh Rider said:
I have to get one of these when I kill my next harbor freight saw. I’ve killed 5 of them so far but they’ve replaced them all because I’ve bought the warranty. The bearings suck and I’m tired of replacing them.
Thanks for sharing your setups guys.
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That’s why I didn’t go with Harbor freight.lol
 
Not to keep beating a dead horse here, but I finally got a chance to try out my new saw. It's at least 3 or 4 times a fast as the Jet saw that I was using. I set it up with an on/off switch and a Harbor freight grinder stand which works out really nice because the small table underneath it catches 99% of the saw dust. The stand also comes with a tray underneath it where I keep the spare blades. I would definitely recommend this set up to anyone who needs a saw for knife blanks.

The next thing I want to try on it is the Morse 8-11 blade It supposed to be able to replace all blade up to 18 tip. Has anyone here tried these Morse 8-11 blades?
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The ear plug are a must.
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I got 6 hidden tang blanks in 3/16" AEB-L sawed out in about 45 minutes or so.
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I have been using my Harbor Freight 4 X 6 horizontal/vertical saw for about 19 years. Still works fine.
I doubt any of the porta-bands will work that long.
 
Same here. I have used the same saw for nearly 20 years. Works fine. Yes, if you get aggressive it will pop the blade off, but with normal feed rates it cuts well.

I think one advantage people like Bill and I have is we saw things every day … with very fragile blades. We get used to reading the sound and feel of the blade and metal.
I remember someone asking what type blades I use in my jewelers saw and I told him it wasn't the blade that determined how long it cut, it was the hand that used it.
 
I agree completely, my 6" x 5" Jet horizontal/vertical saw works just as well now as it did 15 years ago when I bought it, and it's still just as slow. The difference between the two being is the Jet has a 6 amp motor and runs at a maximum speed of 200 fpm and the Milwaukee portages band has an 11 amp motor and runs at 380 fpm or more. What used to take me most of an afternoon I can now do in 45 minutes. That's why I made the switch.
 
I have a Laguna 14" bandsaw that I use for cutting wood. Am I able to put a bimetal blade on that and cut out blanks like Scott did? Or do I need one of these smaller band saws to do that?
 
Randydb said:
I have a Laguna 14" bandsaw that I use for cutting wood. Am I able to put a bimetal blade on that and cut out blanks like Scott did? Or do I need one of these smaller band saws to do that?
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Your wood cutting saw is too fast to put a metal blade in and cut metal. Woos saws run at about 3000 fpm and metal cutting saws run at about 200-400 fpm. I have heard of guys putting metal blades in wood saws and cutting metal with them, but I really don't know how safe that is.
 
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