My rehandle and shield projects (with tutorials)

waverave said:
Well...I considered this my final project. I would give myself a B- :) I still have much to learn and it didn't turn out perfect by any means...but I really like it.
The Northfield #291219HJ
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Well done! Looks great from here, Darren!:thumbsup: Can you point out/mention the areas you aren't quite satisfied with?
The shields you've been using look very classy. Do you have a template to router out the inlay for the shield?
 
Ramrodmb said:
Well done! Looks great from here, Darren!:thumbsup: Can you point out/mention the areas you aren't quite satisfied with?
The shields you've been using look very classy. Do you have a template to router out the inlay for the shield?
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Thanks Mark :)
I should mention I am a bit of a perfectionist...and my intention is to be able to put a GEC back together with the same quality as the original production (which is damn near custom level). If I were only working on Case knives or Rough Ryders, my expectation would be much lower.
So for this #29 mod, a few things didn't turn out as perfect as I would have liked.
1. There is a small gap in-between the bottom bolster and material on the pile side. After my third attempt I simply gave up and let it ride. It is not horrible but, again, not perfect.
2. I drilled out the holes for the middle spring pins on both sides a little too much...there is a gap between the pin and the material.
3. The punch blade has the same w&t as it was before the mod, but the main blade is just a little off. I am pretty sure I goofed the pivot pin a little bit on that side. It works fine but isn't perfect.
4. I realized after polishing that I still had a few imperfections in the material. Tortoise shell acrylic is really easy to work with, very forgiving and it polishes to a mirror shine. However, that means every little tiny imperfection is visible. This is an easy fix just takes some time.

The shields I get from a metal fabricator and they come with a template to use for routing (see some of my earlier posts in this thread). So far, they have been spot on perfect. I have three different shields to work with but hoping to get a few more soon. @Terdl76 and I have been splitting orders of the shields because there is a minimum order quantity. I do like this Orleans shield and would like to also get a version like GEC uses where one end is smaller than the other (so it can be reversed if needed).
 
Ok giving myself a solid B on this one :) #151118STL in Buffalo Horn.
I didn't choose the correct pin steel to match the bolster and somehow the blade kinked a little bit off center (can't see either in the photo). Otherwise, I think it turned out beautiful. I like working with buffalo horn.
GEC_15_buffalo.jpg
 
Signalprick said:
Turned out great! What pin steel did you use?
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I used Nickel Silver. Looks like maybe I should have used mild steel or something else. It is all but impossible to find .082" mild steel. I would have needed to drill the hole out to 3/32"...then a #38 bit...then I could have used standard 3/32" steel pin stock or nails or whatever. It isn't perfect but I'd rather use the stock holes if I can.
 
waverave said:
I used Nickel Silver. Looks like maybe I should have used mild steel or something else. It is all but impossible to find .082" mild steel. I would have needed to drill the hole out to 3/32"...then a #38 bit...then I could have used standard 3/32" steel pin stock or nails or whatever. It isn't perfect but I'd rather use the stock holes if I can.
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I've only modded two GEC's so far and both were .093" pivot pin size. The 15 was smaller? If so you could buy some .093" stainless pin stock and turn it down to fit. I use my Dremel Work Station turned sideways, chuck up the pin and slowly turn it down with a file then a higher grit sand paper to a finish smooth.
 
Signalprick said:
I've only modded two GEC's so far and both were .093" pivot pin size. The 15 was smaller? If so you could buy some .093" stainless pin stock and turn it down to fit. I use my Dremel Work Station turned sideways, chuck up the pin and slowly turn it down with a file then a higher grit sand paper to a finish smooth.
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Most of the smaller GECs have a .086" pivot hole and use a ~.083" pin. They use 3/32" (.093") for some of the bigger knives :thumbsup:
 
waverave said:
Most of the smaller GECs have a .086" pivot hole and use a ~.083" pin. They use 3/32" (.093") for some of the bigger knives :thumbsup:
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Interesting. I learned something new today. I just assumed all GEC's were standard across the board. FWIW the #25 I did was .093 but again, I've only fooled around with two GEC's so far so I acknowledge I am very green. Thanks for the info.
 
Signalprick said:
Interesting. I learned something new today. I just assumed all GEC's were standard across the board. FWIW the #25 I did was .093 but again, I've only fooled around with two GEC's so far so I acknowledge I am very green. Thanks for the info.
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I wish :) And no problem. I confirmed all of that information with Randy Bell of GEC :thumbsup:
 
waverave said:
Ok giving myself a solid B on this one :) #151118STL in Buffalo Horn.
I didn't choose the correct pin steel to match the bolster and somehow the blade kinked a little bit off center (can't see either in the photo). Otherwise, I think it turned out beautiful. I like working with buffalo horn.
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A “common nail” filed to the right diameter works and matches perfectly for GEC STL knives.
 
waverave said:
Ok giving myself a solid B on this one :) #151118STL in Buffalo Horn.
I didn't choose the correct pin steel to match the bolster and somehow the blade kinked a little bit off center (can't see either in the photo). Otherwise, I think it turned out beautiful. I like working with buffalo horn.
View attachment 1234306
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So, if the pins can all be made flush and perfect like this, why do most production knives have a combination of flush and recessed pins? Always wondered.

GWqqYZh.jpg
 
CasePeanut said:
waverave waverave what have you been up to lately? We haven't seen any pics recently. I'm still drooling over that #15 in Buffalo Horn!
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I have a lot of projects in the works or lined up but just haven't had any shop time lately.
I have another 15 clip I want to rehandle and Id like to redo the pivot pin in the buffalo horn version so it blends. I had envisioned coining the liners on that one but wasn't quite ready for that yet.
I am also working on shadow patterns. I took a 78 blade and spring and made my own liners. I am using that as a learning project as I dive into more advanced knife making.
I have a NF 86 that Id like to make new liners for and convert to a barlow (I have a spot welder now).
I have a 72 that I am itching to rehandle as well.
I have so much that I want to do but will have to be patient and wait until after the holidays to get back to it.
 
bflying said:
So, if the pins can all be made flush and perfect like this, why do most production knives have a combination of flush and recessed pins? Always wondered.

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It is just a preference really. Typically, GEC will dome and press the scale pins. On some materials, it can't be avoided (stag, for example). I am learning how to do that myself to better recreate GEC's production methods when I work on one of their knives.
 
bflying said:
So, if the pins can all be made flush and perfect like this, why do most production knives have a combination of flush and recessed pins? Always wondered.

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In the knife you have pictured the domed ones, the closest to the blade in the middle and the closest to the bolster are preformed rivets they use to hold the scale in place, they will never look different than that. The other two go all the way through and hold the knife together they sand them flat on smooth handles and use a pin spinner to round them on jigged or non-smooth materials.
 
bflying said:
So, if the pins can all be made flush and perfect like this, why do most production knives have a combination of flush and recessed pins? Always wondered.

GWqqYZh.jpg
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GEC could make all of the pins flush like Darren did on the buffalo horn 15, I think it is just a time saving/cost saving step that they do. They pre-cut the pins and countersink them so there is less peeling/finishing later.
Edit: it’s supposed to say peening not peeling.
 
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Queen, Cammilus, Schrade, Victorinox & custom makers seem to all be able to make a traditional style knife w/o ugly sunken pins that can't be polished so they just get uglier with tarnish. If sunken pins are a cost saver, it's not a savings chosen by other makers. But then GEC uses one of the most inexpensive to use steels, 1095.

With domed pins, some makers use them only for the sping pin. Others do it for all pins, but it's usually a charcteristic of the pattern or style.
 
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