My Updated Forging Area

Rick Marchand

Rick Marchand

Donkey on the Edge
Moderator
Joined
Jan 6, 2005
Messages
9,680
I finally got around to rebuilding my forge and making a new quench tank. I added a burner to even out the heat and run more efficiently. It runs perfectly at 5psi.... At 10psi, it gets to over 2400F.

Forge, anvil, Q-tank, water bucket, tongs and hammers...
IMG_0020-5.jpg


My homemade propane tank forge. I just added another burner. You can see the old mounting tube...
IMG_0022-3.jpg


The regulator and pyrometer are located safely underneath the table. I also added a split manifold to run (2) tanks...
NewForgingArea.jpg


Quench tank is 6"id x 36" tall on a 10"x10" base. It holds 5gal of Houghton Quench K perfectly and has a mounted thermometer...
IMG_0023-2.jpg


Thanks for looking.
Rick
 
Last edited:
nice setup rick!
If you dont mind me asking how must did the forge run you? I have been looking to set one up for a while, also is it pretty easy to control the heat output?
 
Thanks Drew,
I put just under $200 into it (including the upgrade to 2 burners). It is not as exact as an oven. Under the torches is always hotter. When I run the forge at 1.5 - 2psi it hangs at 1500F and my tempilstix confirm.:thumbup:
 
Some of those hammers look almost new:eek: I would take them outside, throw them in the dirt, and kick them around for a bit. Or something. How embarassing:D
Seriously, that is an enviable setup. Color coordinated even.
 
Justin King said:
Some of those hammers look almost new:eek: I would take them outside, throw them in the dirt, and kick them around for a bit. Or something. How embarassing:D
Seriously, that is an enviable setup. Color coordinated even.
Click to expand...

My Penninghaus hammers are only a few months old.... give em a bit longer to look respectable, will ya:rolleyes:


Rick:thumbup:
 
Very nice setup! I like it alot.

Keep an eye on that white teflon tape on your fittings (looks like tape in the pics, could very well be compound :) ). I've heard that even though white is rated for LP, it can prematurely break down. Yellow is recommended for LP gas. Just a heads up :)
 
No prob. White tape's packaging says it will work for LP, but I would keep an eye on it. The yellow is thicker and more chemically resistant to LP.
 
Looks good Rick. I like your anvil and quench tank too! How's the tank work? Looks like a temperature gauge mounted on it. Are you doing any heating or circulation in it? What's the big cylinder on the stand behind the forge? Some sort of "thermal/smoke stack" buffering between your forge and the wall? Or....?
 
Farmer Phil said:
Looks good Rick. I like your anvil and quench tank too! How's the tank work? Looks like a temperature gauge mounted on it. Are you doing any heating or circulation in it?
Click to expand...

I love the deep vertical tank, Phil. It has a thermometer but no heater or circulator. I just shove some hot mild steel down its throat to warm it up. I also have to keep a "magnet on a stick" handy incase I drop a blade.:thumbup:

Farmer Phil said:
What's the big cylinder on the stand behind the forge? Some sort of "thermal/smoke stack" buffering between your forge and the wall? Or....?
Click to expand...

Correct.... its a split stove pipe that acts as a heat shield to protect my wall. It just slides off for doing longer blades... another reason for having my forge on wheels too. I can roll it away from the wall to do big stuff.


Rick
 
OOPS.... didn't even notice that, Yote. I forgot to put the thermocouple on for the pic. It is a wire that hangs over the edge of the tank and about 10" down inside the oil. It plugs into the side of the readout.


Rick
 
I'm still using a meat thermometer. I suck.

I'll have to one up you by installing a threaded thermocouple. or two, at different heights! :D :D
 
I had some questions about the ergonomics and my anvil on another board... so I will address them here, too.

I am right handed. For the pic I angled my forge out a little more. When I'm working, the forge opening faces the anvil. I hold the piece with my left hand and pivot to the right to heat, then straighten out to hammer. Everything is within reach without over-extending. It works well for the tight space I have available. When I build my smithy shack, I will have the forge on my left, where it would make the most ergonomic sense.

forgingarea.jpg


My anvil is a 4"x 4"x 14" piece of 1045 buried in fine gravel in a chicken feeder... lol. On the top face, all four edges are ground differently. (1/8"rad, 1/4"rad, 1/2"rad and one sharp edge)


Rick
 
I use an Allied Precision bucket heater- http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=1&pf_id=0034084
to heat up my oil. Much more reliable than dangling hot steel into the tank. The bucket heater cuts off at about 165 degrees so if you forget to turn it off your oil won't be on fire by the time you remember:eek: My tank is made from a welding cylinder and the steel will soak up a lot of heat, getting it to the right temp. and keeping it there while heating it with scraps of steel just didn't cut it for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top