My view on "beater" knives

Some knives are good for slicing tomatoes into translucent wafers. Others can be readily applied to popping open a frozen car door, scraping a gasket, or punching a hole through sheet metal should the need arise. You could call that “misuse of a tool”, or you could call it “using what you have at hand to do what needs to be done”. A beater is a knife that I would not hesitate to put to the latter uses.
 
Some knives are good for slicing tomatoes into translucent wafers. Others can be readily applied to popping open a frozen car door, scraping a gasket, or punching a hole through sheet metal should the need arise. You could call that “misuse of a tool”, or you could call it “using what you have at hand to do what needs to be done”. A beater is a knife that I would not hesitate to put to the latter uses.

Well, I think its kind of forming up to be kind of one of the two camps of users (not collectors):

Camp A: It's a knife, it's a tool, they're all beaters...I'll use it for what ever I need, be it a $20 cheapo or a $400+ top end blade.
Camp B: I have my 'nice knives' I use for 'clean'/routine non-damaging soft materials cutting. I have my 'beaters' that I use for, well, beating on during 'dirty/abusive' jobs. I fall in with this crowd.

For me, the above example...popping open a frozen car door? I don't know where he lives, but that's not something I'd routinely do with a knife...for both the knife and door's sake (paint, gasket, etc). I've had 'cold stuck' doors, but I've managed to get them open without prying. But unless I just robbed a bank (kidding of course) or there's a medical emergency, I'd probably take the time to find a better tool if needed. Same with sheet metal. I wouldn't punch a Sebbie or similar grade knife through it with out reason...I'd go get a punch, or more appropriate tool time permitting, even over a 'beater' knife.

Just me...there's really no 'right' or 'wrong' really, as long as you're willing to live with the results of your decision (bent/broken/chipped/etc). Truth be told, if I ever win the lottery, I'll probably by a few of all the top end folders and use them for all my cutting chores. But I think I still have an instilled 'philosophy of use' mindset (along with remembering where I came from, what I was taught, and respect for the craftsmanship) that I still wouldn't abuse them...even if I could afford it many times over.

Lastly, the OP was citing an ADAMAS folder, a lot of 'tough' for the $$, but also not in the price range of CRK, Strider, etc. I could easily see that model as a designated, higher-end, hard-use field folder...

In any event, commence Operation Tryptophan '17! Have a good weekend all.

Cheers,
BOSS
 
Another note regarding better knives as all around workhorse not about price.

I don't go snowboarding in my Brooks Brothers suit , I wear snowboarding gear that cost the same not more, why?

A. It's not fit for the purpose
B. It will get destroyed

At that same token, I'll change a flat tire with either because I have to.

I could go around in life wearing clothing that were okay, not good or great in any situation, this is a jeans and sweatshirt, it's not perfect, and sure I could spend $30 or $600 for jeans and a sweatshirt, but they will be okay at any job.

My knives are the same, it's not so much about cost, it's about their fit for the task. Using the wrong knife for a task may destroy it just like snowboarding in a suit.

If you have a $800 1/4 thick blade sure use it as a prybar on 55 gallon oil drums, but don't tell me you would fillet a fish with it.
 
If you have a $800 1/4 thick blade sure use it as a prybar on 55 gallon oil drums, but don't tell me you would fillet a fish with it.

Actually, I would.
In fact, I have. :)
It didn't look extra pretty, but it still tasted good. :thumbsup:

I often like the extra challenge involved in using a brutally overbuilt knife for delicate tasks.
Living in North America, life is generally pretty damn easy...have to make it more challenging somehow. :D
 
Actually, I would.
In fact, I have. :)
It didn't look extra pretty, but it still tasted good. :thumbsup:

I often like the extra challenge involved in using a brutally overbuilt knife for delicate tasks.
Living in North America, life is generally pretty damn easy...have to make it more challenging somehow. :D
Good post.

Made me buy the Stabman book. Available in Canada BTW. :thumbsup:
 
Hoping you cleaned it between the oil drums and the fish.

I have never actually stabbed an oil drum, oddly enough. :D
Chopping, batonning and prying wood? Sure.
Chopping frozen bacon packages into thirds to get to the tasty bacon faster? Yep. :)
Busting apart old furniture so it fits into garbage bags, and I can avoid paying the disposal fee the apartment building charges otherwise? Naturally. :thumbsup:

But I have yet to meet an oil drum that pissed me off enough to stab it...
 
Hi. I have users, not sure about “beaters” :). All my knives are users but I have never deliberately “abused” one. My knives, most of the times, cut stuff; a rather various pool of materials during the day. Sometimes, anyway, when I really lack the “right tool for the right job” and the job has to be done nevertheless on spot, they also do something different than pure cutting. It can be e.g. removing a staple, prying something open, piercing/stabbing through something, etc. I still consider these as plausible foreseen uses of my blades.

In one way I agree with OP, I normally expect more from a “premium” knife, both in terms of performance and in terms of durability, reliability and overall quality. Note my personal quality dimensions of reference are mainly the “fit for use” and the “value for money”. Since I regularly maintain my knives and tools, that’s not an issue for me. For full disclosure :), I also need to mention I don’t own knives more expensive that 250-ish EUR; this is a kind of personal set price limit for cutting tools. Beyond that, I would start consider them something else than pure cutting tools and, likely, my behaviours towards them would change, for the ones I have in front of e.g. art pieces, etc.

Also connected with their price tag, there’s another thing that, for me, it’s very important :). I imagine that for collectors and for all those in the hobby who primarily buy and sell, this wouldn’t probably apply but, for me, to use the knife I have chosen to buy in its relevant context it’s very important. For me, a knife that is marketed as “survival knife”, need to perform in the outdoor activities, as well as a knife marketed as a “gentleman” knife, need to perform in EDC light/medium cutting tasks and food prep. So, in this respect, my knives might, more than occasionally, “take a beat”, if, with this expression, we mean using them to the full scope and extent, according to what they are designed/marketed for.

I can take the example of hiking/camping, something I am fond of and practice regularly :). In my opinion, when hiking/camping there are many aspects of a knife that come into play only in that specific context. Then I might realize that those handle scales with a texture which looks so nice, wonderfully aggressive and coarse under a spot light on a table top review, with cold bare hands it is just too aggressive and immediately create an hot-spot when e.g. working with wood for fire prep. Same can be valid for such a smooth, superbly polished handle; once in use, with wet or bloody hands, the whole knife can turn into a soap bar under the shower. That beautiful sheath, with great fit & finish and fantastic knife retention, as I walk through winding woods trails, always gets stuck into the vegetation. That super steel that I could have sharpen rather easily at home with all my good set of diamond hones, stones and compounds here, in the woods, with that small field stone not only doesn’t want to sharpen up properly but also spoiled the flavour of the food.

Sure, using my knives like this along the years, I have snapped a couple of tips here, chipped a few blades there, badly scratched several others, etc. :D I consider these a learning and a kind of test results for durability, reliability and overall quality. Surely I draw my own conclusion - which have no validity but for myself - but they will influence my next purchase and trust/esteem in the respective brands for sure. If my 10 EUR knife easily outperform my 100 EUR knife in the same category, this is something I consider (and might even have a public say about :p:D); in the same way I have learned when it’s OK, for me, to carry just an Opinel #8 for an hike or pack the Fallknivens, or when a certain blade finish is fine to employ, in my own uses, without damaging or destroying it.
 
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In a similar vein, why not dig a hole or trench with a teaspoon or spork?

Not a dig at you Stabman, as this stuff's all over the net. ;). It's just hard to work out why.
 
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In a similar vein, why not dig a hole or trench with a teaspoon or spork?

Not a dig at you Stabman, as this stuff's all over the net. ;). It's just hard to work out why.

Well, there was actually a reason behind this one. ;)

You see, I bought the Medford due to the haters.
There were two camps of haters:
1) "Medfords can't cut; you might as well try cutting things with a brick."
2) "Hard use my butthole. The flimsy frame-lock would fail the first time anyone tried doing anything strenuous with it!"

So, I bought it and used it for everything. Everything from cutting vegetables and spreading peanut butter, up to batonning and chopping down a tree.
It is all documented in this thread:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-12-days-of-medford.1464833/

Cutting tape and trimming my cuticles were done as well...but might be too extreme to mention. :D

Since then, it has seen use which some might consider hard, but it has been hard cutting tasks.
Most folding knives do not have the mass and length to chop all that well, and I have the huge fixed blades I made myself for batonning and chopping purposes. :thumbsup:

But it held up perfectly fine to all the abuse.
No lock-rock.
No sideways wiggle.
No edge damage.
Heck, the lock didn't even move that far over!
 
To me a beater is anything in infi or 5160 steel. A non beater is made from cpm steels which, after a beating, take hours to sharpen
 
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