Mike, I think 1095 or O1 for a high carbon, 1065 or 5160 for a medium carbon, and some really low carbon mild steel are good for starters.
Stacy, we're talking "mystery steel" here right? Actually the alloy content (other than carbon) does effect how the steel sparks, which is where it gets tricky and "similar alloys" do spark similar, but not the same. However, they same steel will spark the same. You should be able to Google that information up.
It's a common misconception that the amount of branching is best indication of carbon content, although the branching or lack of it can play a role in identifying certain types of alloys. There are some high carbon alloys they use for dill bits etc., that have dull orange sparks with no branching at all, but the sparks still burn out close to the wheel like other high carbon alloys.
Low/medium carbon steels also throw sparks fairly far from the wheel, but tend to show more branching than the low.
The point is that with a series of in shop tests you can narrow things down and get a good general idea of what you have before you waste any time trying to work with them or having them analyzed. The first thing is to weed out the steels that aren't what you are looking for
I think there is another misconception that working with mystery steel means picking up any old piece of steel and trying to make a knife from it. No! It means knowing what types of steels you ARE looking for, what they are commonly used for, and being able to identify them with some shop testing.
Since the alloy composition determines the properties of the steel, then by studying the properties of the steel, you should be able to determine the alloy composition,
or at least narrow it way down, through a process of simple deduction. However, a true chemical analysis should be considered a more accurate and detailed method when practical or warranted to apply.