Originally posted by fulloflead
I'm leaning toward the La Griffe and MOD.
I'll be using it for mostly utility use and potentially defense.
I'm concerned about the thick ones' cutting performance.
I also consider weight, printing under the shirt of a short, fat person and rust resistance.
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Buy the knife you want, have a nice sheath made for it... i.e., don't skew your decision because it comes with a cr@ppy sheath.
The LaGriffe is a really small, light, neat design for a small, last ditch, and wicked little ripping claw for self defense. It is NOT a utility knife.
Make sure you take a good hard look at the Darrel Ralph ArcLite... I've got a custom in 420V and it's a gem. Check out the Camillus ArcLite Cuda for a nice cheapie.
Also, I really like several of Pat Crawford's designs... clean, light, functional. I like their original "Neck Knife" in a simple drop point at around 3", also the Sparrow Hawk and Kasper. Definitely look these over before you decide:
http://www.crawfordknives.com/html/neckknives.html
I like the smallest Bud Nealy Pesh Kabz. Pointy, but stout point, then deeply hollow ground slicing main edge. Clever blade grind overall.
I really like the looks of the Spydie Ronin mentioned earlier, but haven't handled one. I would only change the butt of the handle to have some drop to it.
Decide what features are important to you, and evaluate all you can find against that criteria. Example... here is what is important to me in a neck knife, not necessarily in order... your list will probably differ, so just food for thought:
1. lightweight... skeletonized is nice, but not to point of weakening at blade/handle junction.
2. blade 3" or less, OAL of 7" is adequate for my hand size typically
3. secure grip... index finger "guard" of some kind at least... thin material stock to keep it light/small. Some bit of drop in the butt helps grip security on removal from sheath and on a draw stroke.
3b. handle works in reverse grip... comfortable, and a place for your thumb on butt.
4. stainless steel... corrosion resistance is more important to me than edge holding in a neck knife, but you get both with 420V and S30V. I.e., I'd rather 440C than D2 in a neck knife scheduled for carry in the deep South (humidity, sweat). ATS-34 is borderline. VG-10 would work.
5. breakaway chain (as you noted). Don't skew your purchase because a sheath lacks this... you can add yourself. Or you can use paracord and just make a 2" segment of the paracord loop from breakaway chain so you can't be choked out as easily with the thing. I still prefer all breakaway myself... rather not give anyone any length of paracord to use against me.
6. snug flat, narrow kydex sheath
7. no double edges (no sharpened top edge) if for utility use... you'll just cut yourself more often than anything else.
8. grind that leaves point sturdy enough to avoid fragility, but made from reasonably thin stock (e.g., not the Assault Shaker, too thick/heavy unless you are a really big guy).
9. I don't care for serrations for utility, but they can make a short knife more of a ripper for self defense. Rounded serrations (e.g. Benchmade) make more sense than the really pointy ones, in the sense that rounded ones will come back OUT of a target whilst pointy ones might get hung up more easily.
10. blade grind for utility AND self defense is good (but I still like the LaGriffe for pure, last ditch claw/defense). Hawkbills are for self defense and make lousy utility knives (except in a niche, like cutting carpet down to size). Janich's Ronin design might make the best compromise out there, a very pointy flat edge (just need to tweak the handle butt design for my tastes... Janich might have a good reason he did it that way though).