Need a new flat platen

Joined
Apr 19, 2012
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212
I recently discovered the platen on my NWG wasn't mounted at 90 degrees (the angle iron I used for bracket apparently weren't square) which caused uneven pressure on my platen and actually wore down the ceramic glass plate unevenly. This is probably a contributing factor to my not being able to get crisp plunges (that and my own skills... or lack thereof). Anyways... in the process of removing the platen I dropped it and broke the glass. I've always felt the 5" platen was a little short for my needs so I think I'll get an 8" ceramic glass and a new platen in the process.

My question then is... is it worth it for me to construct a new platen (using 2" bar stock of some kind) or should I just buy one. More importantly, is it likely I'll be able to get consistent plunges with a homemade platen? I have SOME fabrication skill but I'm not a machinist and I don't really have precision equipment.
 
If you are going to cover it with ceramic, it really doesn't matter what steel you use. I'd actually use aluminum in this application since it shouldn't see any wear and should dissipate heat better. Though i've never seen an aluminum platen, so maybe I'm missing something. Regardless, my platen is just 1/2" thick mild steel. There shouldn't really be any problem making one, just cut the bar to the size you want (8" is common). you will need to tap holes in the platen to mount it up. If you are using ceramic glass, you also want a lip on the bottom of the steel platen that will act as a shelf and catch the glass should it come off. I just tapped two 1/4"-20 holes and screwed a piece of 1/8" stock on the bottom that sticks out past the face of the steel platen by 1/8" or so. To give yourself some options on plunge radii, before you mount the glass, round the top or bottom of the left and right edges to the same radius. when cleaning up your plunge, you can use that area with a j weight belt hanging off that side to clean up your plunge, or use the sharper edge in the lower section if you want a sharp plunge. I would also round the top and bottom edges of the glass to ease the belt transitions.
 
If you are going to cover it with ceramic, it really doesn't matter what steel you use. I'd actually use aluminum in this application since it shouldn't see any wear and should dissipate heat better. Though i've never seen an aluminum platen, so maybe I'm missing something. Regardless, my platen is just 1/2" thick mild steel. There shouldn't really be any problem making one, just cut the bar to the size you want (8" is common). you will need to tap holes in the platen to mount it up. If you are using ceramic glass, you also want a lip on the bottom of the steel platen that will act as a shelf and catch the glass should it come off. I just tapped two 1/4"-20 holes and screwed a piece of 1/8" stock on the bottom that sticks out past the face of the steel platen by 1/8" or so. To give yourself some options on plunge radii, before you mount the glass, round the top or bottom of the left and right edges to the same radius. when cleaning up your plunge, you can use that area with a j weight belt hanging off that side to clean up your plunge, or use the sharper edge in the lower section if you want a sharp plunge. I would also round the top and bottom edges of the glass to ease the belt transitions.

Thanks Kevin. I am actually looking at some aluminum for the same reason and it seems I can find the dimensions I want at pretty reasonable prices. I think I can get it at 2" wide but the precision there really shouldn't matter since I'll be using a ceramic platen. I hadn't thought of radiusing the glass but it makes sense.

Nathan's platens and his C-frame mount are precision made and perfectly flat./square. He has them in The Exchange.

I've looked at Nathan's, but I have a hard time pulling the trigger... I hem and haw a long time before I can let go of money... I can afford it, I just don't like to spend my $$$. It looks like he sells out as quickly as he can make them.
 
And there is a very good reason he does ... they are worth every dollar. It comes down to how important a good alignment is to you.

As said, you can use HF bar stock, angle iron, and a piece of ceramic floor tile and make a working platen. It just won't be the same.
 
I've looked at Nathan's, but I have a hard time pulling the trigger... I hem and haw a long time before I can let go of money... I can afford it, I just don't like to spend my $$$. It looks like he sells out as quickly as he can make them.

If you buy one of Nathan’s platens, you’re not going to regret it. The quality is far and away above anything else out there (that I’ve seen). The good thing about a hardened platen even if it’s to keep under a piece of pyroceramic is if you don’t like the pyroceramic or it breaks, you’re not out of production. Just remove it and use the steel platen.
 
In my opinion there are some things you can do to save money but if you want professional results then you need to pony up a few more bucks and get the best quality platen that you can. After all, this is the thing that your blade rests against when you are grinding it. Do you want it almost hard...or almost straight and flat? I have been using a Nathans A-2 platen on one of my grinders and one of his D2 platens on the other. They are hard and flat and work well. They are more than worth the money in my estimation. Larry
 
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I ground on glass for about 2 years. Once I put one of Nathan's platens on my grinder I've never looked back. Not that there isn't a time for glass, and I may do that again one day soon. But his tools are phenomenal. Love them. Money very well spent. :)
 
I use 1/2 inch thick O1 tool steel. And I use it as quenched at around 67 HRC. Once a month I run it through the SGA, it doesn't take more than a couple of minutes. And it's really flat and nice again!

I like this approach since it's cost efficient, performs well and doesn't take a lot of maintenance. And another benefit is the minimal risk of static electricity. ;)
 
Not sure how well you can see this. But im using a ceramic glass platen on a very nice waterjet cut home built grinder. Im guessing the ceramic has worn out in the middle. As now when i grind the blade only touches on the edges. I plan on getting one of Nathan's platens when payday rolls around.

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This is only a year or so of use btw
 
If you are able, make your own. So much cooler to do this stuff on tools YOU make yourself. I'm in the middle of a 2x72 build right now. I'm using an aluminum bar measuring 2"X11.75". may not believe it, but it's actually a chime/key/plate from an electric xylophone! 1/2" thick & narrows to about 1/4" in the center. And I'm going to use a piece of granite for the surface.
 
Let us know how that granite works out. Pyro-ceramic glass should be the same, or maybe a tad harder than granite. The pyro-ceramic glass is made to take the heat of belt friction, but I have doubts about the grante.
 
if i didnt have a metal supply house and a bridgeport in the shop i would just buy nates. as is i buy heavy angle iron and mill the sides 90degrees and face the platten backer then put the glass on (i also keep a spare glass in stock case i do something dum and crack th eone on the grinder)
 
It sounds like if I go with Nathan's platen I don't necessarily need the tempered glass platen, but will the glass help with heat if I decide to use one on top of it?
 
I would recommend a glass platen on any flat platen. Even a hardened D2 platen will wear under a belt. Remember roughly a mile of belt pass over it on each minute of grinding. The benefit of the glass is it is really hard, has low friction, and is easily and cheaply replaced.
 
I use 1/2 inch thick O1 tool steel. And I use it as quenched at around 67 HRC. Once a month I run it through the SGA, it doesn't take more than a couple of minutes. And it's really flat and nice again!

I like this approach since it's cost efficient, performs well and doesn't take a lot of maintenance. And another benefit is the minimal risk of static electricity. ;)
I have try HSS steel which have way more abrasion resistant then O1 steel..............nada , HSS don t last very long on my grinder .Cheap ceramic tile last much longer. I wonder if someone try something like this ????
https://www.fluorotec.com/blog/choosing-the-best-ptfe-filler-for-your-application/
 
I have try HSS steel which have way more abrasion resistant then O1 steel..............nada , HSS don t last very long on my grinder .Cheap ceramic tile last much longer. I wonder if someone try something like this ????
https://www.fluorotec.com/blog/choosing-the-best-ptfe-filler-for-your-application/

For me this is a non issue, but it's probably because of the small amount of knives I produce as a hobbyist. The platen is seldom in a particular bad shape when I surface grind it. I guess it's a more important factor when you’re making knives full time.

I lean pretty hard into my grinds on my 3hp grinders and hog wet at around 5000 sfpm.
 
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When I started I fumble F”@&(ed together some tools for knife grinding. —— These day’s I know my time is used much more cost effectively making my knives, so I buy professionally build Grinders & parts. I’ve had the Ceramic glass break and not having another just started grinding on the Platen on my Hardcore or Tag 101 and then remembered to buy some more glass a few months later!:D
 
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