Need Advice on Spyderco Folding Knives

Thanks you all for your replies,somehow I did not imagine I would receive so many in such a short period of time. I do appreciate that very much. I must say first that I had expected to pay about $100 for a new folder,a little more,or a little less is not that big of an issue.

I pretty much know what vg10 is like. How are S30V and ZDP189 in comparison? I've looked at the military models ,but their blade tips seem very delicate. I would really hate to snap the tip of a new knife if I had to do a little whittling or heavy material cutting. How do they hold up?

The reason I like the endura size wise is because my fingers are kind of stiff and numb on my right hand. Opening a smaller knife one-handed ranges from difficult to impossible for me. For instance I have a Spyderco Harpy I cannot open with one hand. :(

How difficult is the manix ball lock to manipulate? Likewise the Military compression lock?

Again much thanks for the help guys :)
 
I LOVE ZDP-189. Super sharp, great edge retention. From what I've heard, the manix ball lock requires two fingers, and the pm2 compression lock is very easy to manipulate once you get acclimated to it.
 
Sounds like you need my EDC, the G-10 Endura4. ;)

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TWBryan said:
Thanks you all for your replies,somehow I did not imagine I would receive so many in such a short period of time. I do appreciate that very much. I must say first that I had expected to pay about $100 for a new folder,a little more,or a little less is not that big of an issue.

I pretty much know what vg10 is like. How are S30V and ZDP189 in comparison? I've looked at the military models ,but their blade tips seem very delicate. I would really hate to snap the tip of a new knife if I had to do a little whittling or heavy material cutting. How do they hold up?

The reason I like the endura size wise is because my fingers are kind of stiff and numb on my right hand. Opening a smaller knife one-handed ranges from difficult to impossible for me. For instance I have a Spyderco Harpy I cannot open with one hand. :(

How difficult is the manix ball lock to manipulate? Likewise the Military compression lock?

Again much thanks for the help guys :)
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You definitely don't want the manix, it is notoriously difficult to unlock. The compression? Meh, I don't have much experience, but if pinching is too fine a movement I would shy away. The nice thing about a lock back or liner lock is that it's just a push of the thumb. I still say caly 3.5.
 
Again my thanks. Apparently the ball lock puts the Matrix out of the running. The Military's blade shape and odd lock are points against it thus far.

Simpleman has something nice,but very uncommon.

At this point leaning towards an Endura in ZDP189,I know I can close one of those. Too bad they don't come with G10 handles.
 
I kinda like the FRN handles on the spyderco's.
 
I would say pm2 or caly 3.5. The caly has some of the best ergos of any knife I have ever handled. And just to muddy the water a bit, have a look at the serrated pacific salt. One of my favorites!
 
Because of your hand problems I would highly recommend the Caly in any flavor (but since you like 'em larger I'd say the 3.5). As mentioned its very ergonomic, its a simple to manulipate back lock and is very solid.

ZDP-189 is a very high end super steel, its very hard (around 62rc) and takes and holds an incredible edge. Being so hard tho its somewhat prone to chipping so for a hard user the VG-10 version may be a better choice. (The VG-10 version comes with G10 where as the ZDP laminate comes with carbon fiber). Noteworthy about the Caly's ZDP blade, its actually a layer of ZDP sandwiched inside two layers of 420J2 to improve flexability since spyderco often calls the Caly series "a working man's blade" (some of the other spyderco's that come in ZDP have a solid ZDP blade).
[the VG-10 caly has a solid VG-10 blade]
 
I'll add the caly 3.5 to the short list then. If the ZDP189 is chip-prone I guess I will avoid that. Could just get a plain Endura and make my own G10 grips. It would be a bit difficult freehand routing though.

Any word on the S30V steel is it tough enough to consider? Too hard? Too brittle?

Still tempted by a manix 2 in S30V...
 
What you really need is a chicken boner. Take a ZDP-189 saber ground blade, grind half of it away, and drop it in a G-10 handle. Now you're ready for poultry night. View attachment 392912
 
TWBryan said:
I'll add the caly 3.5 to the short list then. If the ZDP189 is chip-prone I guess I will avoid that. Could just get a plain Endura and make my own G10 grips. It would be a bit difficult freehand routing though.

Any word on the S30V steel is it tough enough to consider? Too hard? Too brittle?

Still tempted by a manix 2 in S30V...
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S30v is great all around, but if its so much of a pain to close your knife that you end up not using it, what does it matter how good the steel is? Just my $.02
 
The problem with the Manix 2 in s30v is they don't make it with a full flat grind (except for a sprint or two), which drives me insane. The PM2 is the knife you need. S30V is awesome everyday use blade steel. Holds a great edge, takes a super sharp edge. I have hard used my PM2 with no issues. Also the Sage 1 can be had for about $90. With s30v and an easy to use liner lock. Those are my two most used Spydercos. Both are s30v, super light. And easy/fun to use.
 
your qualifications are in Spyderco's wheelhouse: PM2, manix 2, sage 2, caly 3.5, etc... hell, buy them all!
 
TWBryan said:
I'll add the caly 3.5 to the short list then. If the ZDP189 is chip-prone I guess I will avoid that. Could just get a plain Endura and make my own G10 grips. It would be a bit difficult freehand routing though.

Any word on the S30V steel is it tough enough to consider? Too hard? Too brittle?

Still tempted by a manix 2 in S30V...
Click to expand...

S30V is a more wear resistant steel than VG-10 (but not as high as ZDP) and is a great EDC steel but it can be hard for the inexperienced to sharpen. It's generally considered higher than VG-10 / 154CM but lower than ZDP-189 and other "super steels".

Like 500# above one of the main problems I had with the G10 manix2 was the saber ground blade, the flat ground BD1 blade on the manix 2 LW is so much more my style (its lighter and a better slicer, and looks better). I'd agree with the guys above, the manix 2 G10 isn't the right knife for you. Not saying your wrong, or telling you not to get it, if you want one by all means buy one, but based off what you've asked for performance wise its not the right knife. If to really want a Manix but with an easy to operate lock look for an original Manix with a back lock...

If you don't mind giving up some blade length the Native 5 is designed around ergonomics and minimizing hand discomfort during extended use and it comes in all sorts of blade steels and grinds but its only a 3" blade, from FRN to CF and VG-10 to S110V super steel (tho those are very LE and $$$!).
 
Since the native has officially been mentioned: BUY A NATIVE! They rock! I'm talking lightweight frn version. I'm sure the 5 is just amazing too.
 
500lbman said:
The problem with the Manix 2 in s30v is they don't make it with a full flat grind (except for a sprint or two), which drives me insane. The PM2 is the knife you need. S30V is awesome everyday use blade steel. Holds a great edge, takes a super sharp edge. I have hard used my PM2 with no issues. Also the Sage 1 can be had for about $90. With s30v and an easy to use liner lock. Those are my two most used Spydercos. Both are s30v, super light. And easy/fun to use.
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Agreed. I don't understand the issue with blade shape??? This knife is amazing in hand, unless your hands are xl in which case ALLHSS and I discussed that a few posts back. The blade is shaped to follow the line of your thumb when you place it on the jimping on the back of the knife. It is designed for leverage in the handle, and to be able to choke up on the choil for a more detailed cut. The sweeping blade follows the natural flow of your hand as you cut something and the tip is the best I've ever had at piercing. It will pierce better than any other knife mentioned, which is very useful for starting cuts. Which, I would add, it slices through material like butter. The compression lock is one of the sturdiest locks made, and functions similar to an axis lock, means you can open and close the knife just by holding the lock.

You really can't beat it. Btw let's say VG-10 needs sharpening every day, which I have found to be true at work. By comparison, S30V, for me on my PM2, did not need a sharpening for a week of the same use.
 
My 'objection to the military/paramilitary is that the blade tip appears quite delicate. Has anyone done any wood carving or similar type work with the tip of theirs? Secondly how is the compression lock used? Do you push it down,pull it up,or twist it?
 
TWBryan said:
My 'objection to the military/paramilitary is that the blade tip appears quite delicate. Has anyone done any wood carving or similar type work with the tip of theirs? Secondly how is the compression lock used? Do you push it down,pull it up,or twist it?
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The compression lock is like a liner lock, except it is at the back of the knife. Where a liner lock blocks the bottom of the blade from moving, the compression lock blocks the back of the knife around the pivot area. In a lot of peoples opinion it is far stronger.

I have used the PM2 on carving/wood, stabbing into heavy duty plastic chemical totes to relieve pressure, into textiles, leather, woven plastics and more. I'll take a pic in a minute. Are you familiar with a Gayle Bradley or Rat 1? I'll use them for comparison.

Left to right: Vic Huntsman, Rat 1, Gayle Bradley, Paramilitary 2
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Sorry if the quality is poor; it's easier to just use my phone rather than my camera.
 
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