Need help fast - KMG

Well, since you are Da Man I will always defer to your expertise. The problem is that at least his was an explanation, albeit a costly one, as to why it isn't working. So, I guess I'm back to square one. Since nothing else I'm doing seems to work I'll just have the 220 line run and hope for the best.
 
I'm not a licensed electrician, and I'm not claiming superior expertise bro, just saying that the situation obviously wasn't clear to your friend. They don't, as far as I know, make 110v 3 phase motors, they're all single phase, which prohibits the use of a vfd or electronic speed control. Only 3 phase motors, which come in 220V or higher, or DC motors can use Variable Frequency Drive controllers (VFD). The less common feature of the vfds we use is the inverter function, which converts either 110 or 220V single phase AC, to 220V or higher 3 phase AC. That's why your vfd lists either 110 or 220 1p input, and 220 3p output on the data plate.

Now it's possible you don't have enough amperage to run the vfd and motor on your 110 circuits, but you vfd won't even run a 110 motor under any circumstances.

If you were using a 110 motor, you wouldn't be able to use a vfd, and would have to resort to step pullies or other exotic options.

Bear in mind that many contractor type electricians only work on residential or commercial AC wiring, and may have limited or zero knowledge about drive controllers, phase converters, transformers, or machine electronics at all. The VFD is less electrical, and more electronics.

I'm still very concerned there is something else going on here though. A 15amp 110 circuit *should* run this motor and vfd. I've run my 27d off one with a 1.5hp motor before. Did you ever get back in touch with KB Electronics and ask about the flashing error code?
 
The best I got from them was that it there is a low voltage problem.

You know though, there is one thing I didn't try and that is to just leave it plugged in for a few hours. My buddy's cousin is an electronics wiz and I remember him talking about capacitors one time and I'm thinking maybe the capacitor just need to adjust after running off 220v. I really have no idea what I'm talking about but I'm grasping at straws. I once fixed my dead plasma TV by replacing $5 worth of capacitors :).

In the long run I think I can get the new 220 line run for under $150, maybe under $100, so it might be a good idea anyway.
 
mikeod5785 said:
I am an electrician,
Here's the fun part. If you know you have a receptacle with no other receptacles on the same circuit in the area where your motor is....you can make a 220v outlet very easily. You just have to identify the white wire in the panel which is the return path from that receptacle. Now you need to know if your wiring is 14 guage or 12 guage...if its a 15 amp circuit it should be 14 guage(AWG). If it is a 20 amp circuit it should be 12 guage(AWG). If the wiring is 14 guage you can use a two pole 15 amp breaker..if its 12 guage you can use a two pole 20 amp breaker.....take the black wire going to the receptacle....terminate it to one of the two spots on the two pole breaker...take the white wire going to the same receptacle and terminate it on the other spot on the two pole breaker. Congrats, you just converted a 110v receptacle to a 220v receptacle.

.......Be safe, and do it right.........
Click to expand...

Mike,
First, welcome to Shop talk.
Second, I really can't believe a licensed electrician would go on a public forum and advise what you just did. I am pretty sure it is against code, and it is potentially dangerous if the person doing it does not fully understand wiring and circuitry.
Your final comment is the right one...be safe and do it right....which means wiring according to code and safety rules. The best advice is that if the user does not fully understand wiring, he should have it done by someone who does.

Please don't take this as me being mean to you - everyone here knows how I feel about safety and following the established rules and safety laws. They are there for a reason.

BTW, not really important, but it is gauge, not guage)
 
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Well, it's up and running. There was really nothing wrong with it and don't ask me how I finally got it to go because it's too embarrassing to tell. Let's just leave it at there was no need to run the 220v and I'm stupid.

I got some practice in on some mild steel over the weekend and the whole thing is much harder than it looks. There were a couple of issues that I worked out after my trial runs so hopefully it will be much better when I find some time to try again. And damn, I wish I didn't have so much other stuff to do because I can't concentrate on anything and all I want to do is get back in the shop and put metal dust all over the floor.

First thing that went wrong was I kept bogging down the belt. Hmm, that shouldn't happen. There's a learning curve to everything and so it took me a while to realize that the pulley on the grinder side of the motor belt was not only on backwards but also loose. No wonder the previous owner couldn't make a knife. It would only get the sanding belt moving through friction. I haven't tried to work any steel since the fix but obviously it will be a night and day difference.

Second thing was that there was a lot of "wobble" in the sanding belt which I learned from other posts comes most likely from tension remaining on the belt over time. The first belt I tried looked to be in good shape but had some frayed edges. I swapped it for another and the same thing (mind you I have 25 belts from the previous owner). I then went to a Norton Blaze I bought (because it was on sale) and problem solved, no wobble. Not sure yet how many of the other belts have this issue. All the fine grit belts are probably okay but I think I'll have to buy some good belts to replace the coarse stuff and use the older ones for things other than profiling and beveling.

My dream is to bring the knife (knives) in my head into reality and I know it will be a long time before what I imagine and what I make resemble anything close to one another but I'm excited about the potential that's hiding just behind my garage door. Corny but true and closer after each try. I hope.

Sorry for the long and basically unnecessary post.
 
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Hey man, glad to hear its up and running!

It'll be hard going at first, but once things start to click, it'll be easier than you ever imagined.

As far as the belts go, the wobble is usually an issue of belts being left under tension or just crappy belts. Even the best belts sometimes have a little wobble on one out of a dozen, but I recommend sticking with brand name belts for the finishing work at a minimum. You can still easily rough grind with wobblers.

One thing that can fix a wobble from a belt being left on the grinder under tension, is to put it back on with as much tension as you can easily manage without breaking the belt or yourself, and then run it at high speed for 5 mins. Stand back just in case is snaps on you. This will usually stretch the belt more evenly and take out most of the wobble.
 
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