Need Help With Handle Design - Scandi Necker

Brian Andrews

Brian Andrews

Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
1,659
Hey guys,

You have all helped me tons in the past. Well, I am needing your input.

My original goal was to be able to get a knife design out there in the sub-$100 range. Which made me think no scales, which then made me think neck-knife. I also thought a scandi would be cool, because you don't see that often.

So, all I did was take my Badger Lite design, scandi ground it, and went sans handles. Now, I dig it, but am unsure about the hole design, placement, size thing.

That is what I am asking you guys for.

Any thoughts on it?

Anything that might aid in ease of cord wrapping? More holes, smaller, different location, etc?

Let me have it!

BTW, I am going to be gone all day, so I won't get to see any feedback for awhile. But, I appreciate it in advance.

B

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Wow Brian I like it just as is. Verry cool looking. What are the specs?

Great chatting with you yesterday too LOL

Bryan
 
Very cool project. A scandi necker is a fantastic idea. I haven't been able to give it much thought but I would break the edges of the handle just a little. It seems they would tear up a hand in short order if left at right angles like that. Of course if the edges were broken it would make it hard for the owner to put scales on it later if desired.

I would carry that knife in a heartbeat. Mac
 
Great looking knife as all of yours are.... but I think the dynamics of a scandi ground really rise above other grinds when it comes to whittling..and while whittling can be done with a skeletonized handle... it is not fun or pleasurable.. so while i think for survival adap[atations it would be great I think it might lose some of its usability when it comes to more woodcraft related applications...maybe cheap less finished scales? or maybe a wire wrap to make the handle rounded so that it fills the hand better... big handle + short scandi blade makes a razor sharp knife that allows allot of control and comfort...just my 2 cents fwiw.... Your knives are all spectacular looking btw... take care.
 
I Like the overally design alot, but I think that for it to really excel, the handle is going to need a chord or leather wrap of some sort so that the handle dosent dig into your hand. To facilitate this, I would sugggest 3 of the big hole like you have above, centered on the handle, then in between and outside of them, do some smaller holes. I think that would make it a little easier to chord-wrap. I'll draw abd up-load a picture to show what I mean, it is difficult to describe.

I might make one adjustment to the hande design as well, that would be to widen it a bit in the area towards the front of the handle. I think that the original design works well with scales, but when it is skelitonized, you need a little more material in that area to wrap your fingers around. But, I havent held it, so I could be wrong on that one.

Maybe you could have, as an option, to have thin scales chicago-srewed one. It would be easier to do, so would keep your costs low still. Just a thought.

Great design, I hope that this was of some help.
 
I'm really digging that design. What first came to mind for me was to completely cut out the center of the handle i.e Izula or Swamp Warden. I guess it may not cut costs, but it would make it lighter, easier to wrap, and still retain plenty of strength.

Then again, I love all of your designs so I know that no matter what you do, I know it'll be great and makes me cry since i'm broke! :D
 
If you are laser or water jet cutting the blanks, I think a honeycomb made of hexagons would look really cool. Not practical if you are drilling them out yourself. Just someting I have been tossing around as a neck knife idea of my own.
 
Here is what I'm thinking:

With a skeletonized or scale-less handle, the wider the better for a good grip that will allow you some control. A good example of this being successful is with the Boker Subcom knives-very thin folding knives, but they are wide, so it is easy to control the blade.

If you go with a naked design, I would say you should offer the blade either with crisp corners so that people can put on their own scales, or offer to radius the corners for a softer grip that won't chew up paracord as much.

I think you may be better off attaching the scales, and then not shaping them. Just grind them flush with the tang around the edges, and then ship it off. This way you are saved lots of labor in shaping and polishing the scales, which should drop the price quite a bit, but you are still producing a knife that will allow a really great grip (and the customer will be able to perfectly mate it to their hand). This is something like a "kit" knife, but with even less work for the end user. I would suggest somehow designating on the knife (with a modified maker's mark or an extra stamp) that it is not your normal line, in case it is ever sold down the line and someone sees potentially sub-par handle work, it should be possible for them to identify the knife as not entirely your work.

Hope this helps!
 
PS the only suggestion I have is one thing I have found about neck knives is that because they are under your shirt or outside your shirt and you are sweating there is a much greater level of corrosion from the sweat.

Possibly making them out of some form of stainless or something like D2 would make them more resistant to that.
 
nice one!

Okay, as it is it is good- here's the two possibilities I see for changes that wouldn't have a huge effect on the shape-

1, gentle 3/16 radius filework near the butt and fore to hold cord wrap for those inclined that direction

2, a more narrow v type filing on the tang to increase gription. (If I was limiting that to two spots I'd put it on the upper butt where the palm hell goes and on the lower front "guard" area)

But hey, as is, it is great. and be an easy one to attach scales to.
 
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I am going to ramble a little bit here Brian. What is the intended purpose? Is it a last ditch PSK knife or just a casual use neck knife?

I think you are on the right track with no scales to keep the price down. The problem as I see it with downgrading the scales or putting chicago screwed flat scales on a knife like this, is this. You are a maker that has outstanding quality. I don't think that you would be happy putting your makers mark on something that is not up to the quality you are used to producing. It's just my thoughts.

I love the design. I can see it in a kydex sheath with a firesteel and a DMT diamond hone glued on the back for field maintenance.

If I were in a situation that I needed to use the knife for heavy whittling, I would simply baton a small branch and make a set of wood scales that can be wrapped with paracord on either side of the skeletonized blade. I would have paracord with me from the sheath. I have actually done this before just to see if it would work and it does.

I say leave it alone and get it into the hands of general public to use.

Paul
 
RescueRiley said:
Great looking knife as all of yours are.... but I think the dynamics of a scandi ground really rise above other grinds when it comes to whittling..and while whittling can be done with a skeletonized handle... it is not fun or pleasurable.. so while i think for survival adap[atations it would be great I think it might lose some of its usability when it comes to more woodcraft related applications...maybe cheap less finished scales? or maybe a wire wrap to make the handle rounded so that it fills the hand better... big handle + short scandi blade makes a razor sharp knife that allows allot of control and comfort...just my 2 cents fwiw.... Your knives are all spectacular looking btw... take care.
Click to expand...

Well, I would add would I think, but I agree with that, so, I will quote it for emphasis. :thumbup:
 
great knife brain truely i like the knife as is the only thing i might do is wrap the handle in some power cord and madey have a second larger version of the knife for people with bigger hand like my self
 
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