Need Help With Handle Design - Scandi Necker

for my this is the ideal handle shape for a cutting tool ;-) confortable in all knid of grip.
I´d put a micarta or G10 polished scales.
 
Great looking knife. I for one really appreciate you trying to put something out there in the sub $100 range. Opens your work up to a lot more folks. I have been eyeballing your work for some time myself, and this makes it that much easier to get my hands on one.

That being said, my opinion is that it needs some kind of handle/cushion. Be it a wrap or even just pin holes so a handle could be added by the customer. A scandi like yours is one hell of a working knife, and I think to fully make proper use of it you need a good grip that will allow it to be used to it's full potential. Skeletonized knives for me tend to be a bit uncomfortable for some jobs due to the lack of a cushion or scales. That doesn't mean I don't like them, it just means I think they have a working limit that once it is reached they become quite uncomfortable to use for tasks that would not be a problem otherwise.

If a handle is the difference of staying sub $100 or going over, I would agree with what has been said about keeping it wrapable (I like Christof's comments), or a chicago screw/pin hole option (for customer handling). If all else fails, keep it as is and add a handle option with purchase for extra cost. The knife will stay under $100, and if a handle is desired it can go up from there.

Wow, I had no intention to write that much.... anyhoo great looking knife Brian. :thumbup:
 
I haven't read all the other posts but I like your overall design. For the holes I would make them just big enough to put paracord through whatever size that is. As for placement, I always thought that Magnussen had a good idea with his knives. I have his website up on another window so I'll pull a pic.:D
bushloreCW.jpg
 
Brian ,
Would be nice to see holes around the out skirt of the handle .

Jozsef
 
Hey guys,

I just got back in since initially posting and read all the comments at once.

You guys rock! There are some great ideas in there, and I truly appreciate it. However, since I just read them ALL, it will take me some time to noodle on all of them.

BTW Hollowdweller, I was thinking D2 also.

Thank you all for your thoughts.

B
 
Well, I have solved a couple problems and created a couple more with this one :D

I found a way to cord wrap the current handle, with the current hole configuration.

IMG_4246.jpg


IMG_4247.jpg


Bottom line: I like the knife both with and without wrappings. But, with the wrapping, I have a couple problems.

1) My leather pouch neck sheath I made no longer works, because it sits too deep and the cord stops it. Would have to go with a different style.
2) Cord wrap adds bulk, and I am almost not sure that I wouldn't rather have scales. Although, this is inexpensive.
3) Kydex looks out with cord. I wanted to do leather and kydex sheath. However, with the cord so high on the handle, I don't see a good spot for kydex retention. Without the cord, the post-guard area (and first hole) would have been perfect.

So far, I think I am going to do this 3 ways. As is, cord wrap, and thin scales (to keep it a necker). Just got to figure out what to do for sheaths for all those options.
 
I still think I'd try wrapping one with epoxy soaked leather cord, tightly wrapped this will make it less bulky than the para-cord and will look nice and traditional sat in a nice leather neck sheath !!!!
 
Looks great.....but yes... sheathing it now seems to be a bit of a toughy. hmmmm...
 
Brian, I have a couple of ideas for the sheath, but they are going to require alot of explanation, so be expectiong an e-mail.
 
Really like the design, great work.
A necker with a cord handle is a good idea because when I think necker, I think survival knife, and the cord wrap gives you some emergency cord.
 
That looks great Brian!!

My suggestion is from experiance when I designed the project w with Ray Laconico is to bevel the handle profile and holes in handle and then leave the blade spine squared for firesteel use. It makes the blade as comfy as it can be w/o a cordwrap. Plus eliminating the sharp edges on the handle saves wear on a cordwrap.

This would be stellar in CPM154 for corosion resistance, but IMO its not nessisary really. The O1 in the project w did ok.
 
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