Need help with loctite on sebenza 25 frame screws

P

PCL

Joined
May 25, 2012
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I've never had a titanium handled knife and I'm not sure the best way to weaken the thread lock. I've read about a soldering iron and boiling in hot water or god help me hitting an allen wrench into the screw. I don't want to strip them out. Any help appreciated.
 
PCL said:
I've never had a titanium handled knife and I'm not sure the best way to weaken the thread lock. I've read about a soldering iron and boiling in hot water or god help me hitting an allen wrench into the screw. I don't want to strip them out. Any help appreciated.
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Stick the allen key into the face of the screw. Give the butt of the allen key a few light *tap tap taps* to transmit force that will break the locktite. I have heard some say heat is effecitve, and others say loctite is resistant to quite high heats.

The tap tap tap method is recommended by Spyderco who at one point were using red (strong) loctite. CRK on my inkosi used purple (low strength) loctite but am not sure what they used on the 25. A few light but firm taps transmitting for e directly down through the allen key, to the screw should do the trick.
 
Great find on the 25 !!!!!!
Did the knife come with the allen wrenches that CRK supplies ?
If not, I think the CRK web site has them, don't know the size though. Make sure you have good quality allen wrenches that aren't rounded from use. Sometimes the body screws are really tight to the slabs, almost like their galled a little bit. As lapedog mentioned, making sure the allen wrench is seated all the way in is important. Taping the wrench will not hurt the body screw.
 
As far as I know CRK has always used purple. I know for sure that is what they were using in May 2013.

From the factory there was not much of any Loctite actually applied. You may not have any issues.

If you got it second hand there is no guarantee that orevious owners did not use something else.
 
IIRC 1/8in and 5/64 (2mm in a pinch) for the hex or allen wrenches.
 
You should have no trouble with the low-strength (222 / purple colored) Loctite on CRK knives. I find it helpful to use a ball-end hex bit (1/8" on the pivot and 5/64" everywhere else). You do not need to use shock/heat/excessive force. The low-strength stuff is specifically for removable fasteners and to act as an additional preventative against any backing off.

Some people don't even use it and have noticed no issue with the pivots. I use it because I like my knives a little bit tighter than normal (blame NYC) and it makes me feel more comfortable about the action.
 
My 25 is from March 2015, included two 1/8" silver Wiha and a black 5/64" wrenches. Didn't seem to have much factory threadlock. After a few months the stop pins flat moved a little and began to interfere with the open/close; easy fix.
 
bhyde has the correct sizes ... and as mentioned the tap can work ... if you still can't get it loose ... I saw 91bravo mention a method that seems like it would work well ...

along the lines of the soldering iron but he said to take a nail in a pair of pliers ... heat the nail well amd slip the nail tip intil the screw to loosen the loctite ... I haven't used that method but believe it would work very well.
 
I got the bottom screw to break free and the pivot screw too, it had a white colored substance caked on it. But the blade stop screws are stripped.
 
PCL said:
I got the bottom screw to break free and the pivot screw too, it had a white colored substance caked on it. But the blade stop screws are stripped.
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Hate to hear that. There is no easy fix, rather than trying to fool with the stainless screws, you may want to send it in and let CRK replace it. Go to the CRK web page and there's a form to fill out to list what you want done to the knife. I should mention, the form has to be printed and sent in with the knife.
 
Ajack60 said:
Hate to hear that. There is no easy fix, rather than trying to fool with the stainless screws, you may want to send it in and let CRK replace it. Go to the CRK web page and there's a form to fill out to list what you want done to the knife. I should mention, the form has to be printed and sent in with the knife.
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Give them a call before you do. I might be wrong, but I think that's a standard screw they can send to you. If you can get the stripped screw out a replacement doesn't necessitate sending the knife in.
 
Josh K said:
Give them a call before you do. I might be wrong, but I think that's a standard screw they can send to you. If you can get the stripped screw out a replacement doesn't necessitate sending the knife in.
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Yes, if he can get the stripped screw out, CRK sells a screw kit for the Sebenza 25. It can be ordered from their website.
 
Well I have decided to send it to CRK for spa and screw replacement. Do you send a check or money order for parts?
 
PCL said:
Well I have decided to send it to CRK for spa and screw replacement. Do you send a check or money order for parts?
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They called me when things are finished and I pay with a card over the phone.
 
PCL said:
Well I have decided to send it to CRK for spa and screw replacement. Do you send a check or money order for parts?
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You can use whichever mail service you want. Send the knife only along with the form. I always get tracking to see when it arrives. To deter any nosy postal workers, I just put CRK, instead of Chris Reeve Knives. They normally call when the knife is received. If you call before sending it in, they should give you an expected time to turn the knife around.
Like Josh K Josh K said, once it's complete, you'll get a call and they'll tell you the fees which you can pay over the phone with a CC.
 
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