Need Input Criticism For New Knife Design From New WannaBe Knife Maker

I'm really liking that last rendering. I think you picked the right design. The lanyard placement looks spot on to me. It looks like it's in the exact right position.
 
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I think that choil is still too aggressive and pointy the way you've drawn it. The wood mock up you made is actually slightly more reasonable, but as you've drawn it, you'll run into the same problem as with the guard of the scales getting too thin and possibly chipping out at the tip of that choil.
 
Got the new cutout done and it feels awesome in my hand!! SCORE! Now I need to come up with a name for it......
 
I like the basic shape. These are where I would suggest changes
1) the choil should be a semicircular shape. I would suggest an 1/8" chain saw file to make the choil.
2) The butt is a bit too pointed. Perhaps a bit rounder and wider at the butt would work better.
3) The thong/lanyard hole is too close to the edge if the butt is going to be that thin. It may easily chip out the wood on either side...or the whole piece past it may pop off. If the butt is widened and rounded,as suggested above, the current placement would be about right. Just have an even and sufficient amount of wood between the thong tube and the edge of the handle.
4) The pointed tip of the finger rest will be very hand unfriendly. It needs to be rounded, not pointed.
 
I had a semicircle shape in the choil area but i like the triangular shape better and don't really see the difference as far as functionality (if it is, lemme know). I'll look at the butt area some more. I'm actually thinking about stopping the handle before the lanyard hole to prevent any chipping (handles will probably be G10 or carbon fiber anyways). I did a slight fillet on the finger rest
 
It is the conduit to making a nice knife two pieces. It is called a stress riser. The blade may crack in HT at that spot, or break in use due to the stress riser. At the very minimum, make the top of the notch rounded.

Personally, it is aesthetically unpleasing to have a large and/or sharply angular choil.
I regularly use this question when discussing this subject: "Do you like your women rounded or angular ( like Picasso saw them)? "

The choil need only be about 1/8" deep to do what it is there for. Any points other then the blade tip should also be avoided. Your blade shape has two ( and almost a third with the sharp butt).
 
I didn't know the punt could cause problems in HT, and I see your point about having all the points arise from the tip on the knife, I'll make a few modifications to the butt as well
 
Nice,

Now see that acute angle ....

If you want to be able to predict where you blade snaps....live that in.

If you want to eliminate that stress riser....use a chainsaw file or mill to make that angle round.
 
after more adjustments...........i think i'm starting to narrow it down finally
 
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Chief Architect, it's the program i been using for my residential/commercial structural drafting for the past 15yrs.........
 
Now THAT is much much better than your first! I would suggest one more change, as Stacy has mentioned already. Your finger choil....you see how the back end of the choil is almost a point? The user will not like that, I promise you. Just round off that point a touch....and you got it. It is slightly rounded off in that last pic....but I would put a touch more radius on it and smooth it out. Very nice design!
 
samuraistuart said:
Now THAT is much much better than your first! I would suggest one more change, as Stacy has mentioned already. Your finger choil....you see how the back end of the choil is almost a point? The user will not like that, I promise you. Just round off that point a touch....and you got it. It is slightly rounded off in that last pic....but I would put a touch more radius on it and smooth it out. Very nice design!
Click to expand...
I will put a slight more radius on it, I think I put a 1/16" fillet where the lines met, I'll double it to a 1/8" fillet
 
I want to compliment you on doing this right and not being in a rush.....and listening to why people made suggestions.

I took a look at the first sketch and the latest refinement...and boy is there a big difference.
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s413/madupree/Design1_zps3b69bf65.jpg
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s413/madupree/Design6A_zpsbc1df1db.jpg

The only suggestions I would make is on the markings.

1) There is no need to say, "CPM S30V Stainless Steel". Drop the words "Stainless Steel", it is redundant ( also, the longer wording is too busy). Anyone who would know what CPM S30V was will know it is stainless. Sort of like saying M4 tool steel.... you just say M4.
2) Your "MAD" logo is pretty neat. I would normally suggest "Dupree or M.A.Dupree would be clearer. In this case it is a toss up as to which to go with.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I want to compliment you on doing this right and not being in a rush.....and listening to why people made suggestions.

I took a look at the first sketch and the latest refinement...and boy is there a big difference.
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s413/madupree/Design1_zps3b69bf65.jpg
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s413/madupree/Design6A_zpsbc1df1db.jpg

The only suggestions I would make is on the markings.

1) There is no need to say, "CPM S30V Stainless Steel". Drop the words "Stainless Steel", it is redundant ( also, the longer wording is too busy). Anyone who would know what CPM S30V was will know it is stainless. Sort of like saying M4 tool steel.... you just say M4.
2) Your "MAD" logo is pretty neat. I would normally suggest "Dupree or M.A.Dupree would be clearer. In this case it is a toss up as to which to go with.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for all the input from everyone!!! But what about poeple who might be a novice and not know that the S30V is stainless??? I have always used the MAD for different things and have never gotten bad wording from anyone on it
 
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