Need Machete / Sword Suggestions

J

Jagged

Joined
Aug 15, 2001
Messages
339
I have an Ontario Knife Co. 22" Blackie Collins Design Machete
27 1/2" overall. 22" black finished carbon steel blade. Black composition handles with knuckle guard. Etc. I have been using it pretty hard clearing small trees, limbs, weeds, and briars away from some cattle fence and it has done very well (even held up decent when I've accidently hit the steel fence post). The rivets holding the handle are a little loose, but I can't complain too much.

I'm now interested in something that would provide even better performance. Any suggestions in current production items that might do better? Any suggestions on makers & materials for something custom? Since I do hit fence posts occasionally and use it hard, I should probably keep the price below $200 for it and a kydex sheath.
 
The Becker Patrol Machete is very popular. I would suggest doing a search on that one. You should find alot of info on it.

I do wish Camillus would offer some more "grippy" scales for it, however.

Cliff Stamp has said good things about the Martindale Golok.

Also, a Himalaya Imports khukuri would probably do a good job for the work you describe.
 
if you have problems with the becker scales go to a local sandblasting/ bead blasting place and have them done. I've done it and they didnt even charge me.
 
Take a look at the "Woodmans Pal" made by Pro-Tool Industries in Pennsylvania,a superb farm and ranch tool.
 
Some of the Himalayan Imports Khukuris are good at filling the spot of a machete. They tend to be a lot better at chopping of trees than a machete. Check out their forum, right here on BlabeForums. There is lots of info there if you do a search. I personally love a 25" Sirupati Khukuri for those machete duties. It is alot thicker and heavier than a machete though. It is too heavy for some people, but I like it.Check out the khukuris, you might find you like them too!
 
Another vote here for the Becker Patrol Machete. It's the best production machete money can buy. The 0170-6C carbon tool steel Camillus uses for the blade is a tough steel with great edge holdinig capability coupled with ease of maintenance.

I agree with Frank, the Ontario D-guards and the Barteaux machetes are good inexpensive ones in terms of performance and quality. Whatever you do, stay away from those really cheap machetes readily available at most hardware stores and home centers. Their shoddy construction frightens me.
 
Jagged :

[Ontario Knife Co. 22" Blackie Collins Design Machete]


I'm now interested in something that would provide even better performance.
Click to expand...

Most production machetes (Ontario, Tramontina, Barteaux), are very similar in performance. The QC isn't that great though on some, for example I have seen really poor performance from Ontario (blade shattering). while my Tramontina and Barteaux blades held up to much harder use without problems. But assuming you get one which is sound, the biggest difference will probably be in regards to the handle, which suits you best.

Martindale is a big step up in cutting ability because unlike the above manufacturers, and most machete makers, the blades have a distal taper and thus there is a huge increase in overall functionality. While it isn't quite as good as having a primary grind, the distal taper gives you a thin tip for high penetration on soft vegetation while at the same time, a thick edge near the handle for working in heavy wood without excessive binding, or vibration.

With all production machetes, Martindale included, the standard edge they come with is very likely not to be the best one for you. Before you spend $200 for a high end blade I would get the edge on the Ontario modified. Get a primary grind of about 7-9 degrees applied to the edge. Leave about 1-2 mm of the edge with a more obtuse bevel of between 12-16 degrees per side depending on the hardness of the wood you are cutting. This is the same double grinding that Joe Talmadge has described, just on a larger scale. This can induce a huge increase in performance.

Instead of two distinct bevels, you can also just apply one smooth convex edge. The performance will be very close, just pick the one that you will find easier to keep sharp. If you do go convex and have problems sharpening it, you can always just put a distinct flat ground edge on it later anyway. With even simple power tools (1" belt sander), this modification will only take ~5 minutes. If you live close to a knife maker most will do it, as it isn't difficult for them at all.

if you are going custom, keep the steel simple as you want a high toughness. Something like L6 or 5160 and get it farily hard 56+ RC if you can because this will allow a thinner edge as the steel is stronger. Most machetes are ~45 RC and thus the edge will buckle easily if you go too acute. The harder custom should thus offer more cutting ability. There are not a lot of custom makers though who will offer a large blade for that kind of prince. However check out :

http://www.vikingmetalworks.com//knives.html

The camp knife design could easily be modified into a machete class blade. I have one of his knives, a modified of that design :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/parrell_parang_side.jpg


-Cliff
 
I've had good experiences clearing using Valiant Co.'s Survival golok. It's stood up to hits on glass, brick and stone with only minor damage.

The Survival goloks are shorter than your Ontario. But, you can use them against a variety of vegetation very successfully. If you want more reach, Valiant does have longer blades. But, those models aren't for large or dead wood.

Most of their line is in the $30-$100 range. The only gotcha is shipping (from Australia). That's usually around $15-30. Of course, if you order more than one blade, it becomes more economical.

S.
 
Thanks, Cliff for sharing the Viking Metal Works URL. That's a fine looking Bowie at the top of their webpage.
 
If any of the stuff you are clearing is thick and hard then I'd go along with spence's recommendation of a Valiant golok. Otherwise a light machete is the thing to stick with - especially if you are hitting steel posts.
 
I would agree with Jim. To clarify, the Golok will cut such light vegetation better than most machetes, except the better ones with distal tapers (Martindale) of which it holds its own. The reason I would pick the machete over the Golok for such work is simply because that it will do the job just as well in regards to cutting ability, and quite frankly if you have to put up with edge damage from steel posts, it is nicer to see this on a $10 machete.

-Cliff
 
I haven't found anything better than my old WW11 era Collins machete.Distal taper,comfy handle and cuts all day without touch-up.When it does need sharpening I use Cliffs slack belt method and shes ready for more.I got mine on Ebay for 20 bucks and see them there all the time.I've never experienced any chips or rolled edges so whatever steel its made of must be properly tempered.
 
Ok Here is My Personal Favorite!! it is a Phillipino Bolo This thing Cut's Everything So Far !! I Dont think it Will Cut the ''Steel Post's Very well!! Check it Out if You Wish Picture's are on My Web -Site at http://www.pinoyknife.com I Have Used these For Clearing Brush / Bamboo/ Coconut
 
Hello Pinoy,

Can you tell us your source for the Phillipine bolo? I would like to know where good ones can be found (at least, without having to visit a village blacksmith in the Phillipines!)
 
I have a machete from Guatemala.
My wife went there for holiday and I asked her to bring back some real stuff. She asked a guy in a shop for a machete, but something not for tourists, but "the real stuff": the guy went oustside, talked a little with an indio, gave him 5 bucks, the indio took off the machete he had on his belt and now it's mine :D
The blade is made out of a fender, or something like it. It's good carbon steel, properly heat treated, and the grip is some sort of exotic wood fixed with copper pins. if it comes loos a couple hammer blows on the copper pins make it solid again. :D
 
The Source I Have on The ""Bolo'' is in the Philipine's By a Local Blade Smith They are Hand Forged From 5160 Leaf Spring Steel Ground on One Side and Cut like Hell I Do have a Couple of ''Philipino Made one's'' I Also Custom Make them Herein the State's!! Not Exactly ''Cheap'' But You Will get Addicted to these!! I Custom Make them Beacuse The Philipino One's Have Problem's with the Handle's Breaking, Mine Dont Break !! Or Should I Say I Have Never Broken One or Seen one Broken !! E - Mail Me if Interested http://www.pinoyknife.com
 
Count me as another vote for the Becker Patrol Machete. Nice shape, nice usable weight. I think ou will like it.
 
Thanks for all your suggestions and guidance. I'm reading through the reviews and checking them out. :)
 
Originally posted by ArchAngel
Some of the Himalayan Imports Khukuris are good at filling the spot of a machete. They tend to be a lot better at chopping of trees than a machete. Check out their forum, right here on BlabeForums. There is lots of info there if you do a search. I personally love a 25" Sirupati Khukuri for those machete duties. It is alot thicker and heavier than a machete though. It is too heavy for some people, but I like it.Check out the khukuris, you might find you like them too!
Click to expand...

I second that! A HI Sirupati, in the 20+" range, makes *THE BEST* all-round tool, be it machete, hatchet, axe or prybar, *PERIOD*, and I'd challenge anyone to prove otherwise...

However, what 'bout a HI 25" Kobra?
 
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