Need opinions on round knife

I looked through my emails and did not see one from you.
JTcustomKnives (at) gmail.com
 
Alpha Knife Supply said:
We have some thin blade steel in stock:
.044” - M2
.050” - D2
.058” - CPM 20CV
.068” - CPM M4
.070” - CPM 3V
.070” - CPM S30V
.076” - CPM 10V

I would like to know how 10V would work for a round knife. I have a couple knives made from 10V. The knives have phenomenal edge holding.

Chuck
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How fine of an edge the steel takes is also a consideration. I'm pretty sure 3v or z-wear would be great in this application. I used my z-wear edc to cut out my last three sheaths, in thick 10oz leather, and it worked better than the round knife I got from Tandy. The Tandy knife dulls too quickly to be useful on this tough leather.
 
I'm in the middle of making one and made the mistake of using a thick steel. Well it was some I had on hand that I thought would work. Wrong! I believe I will ordersomething in the right size and start over.
Frank
 
If there was a few of you interested and you could all settle of a design I would not mind dropping a sheet of 15n20 off at the water jet place and having blankes cut for you guys. I could even heat treat them for you.
 
Me too. I would laser one but I don't have any stock wide enough.
 
As a leather craftsman I would find that design limiting for what I do. I would find that design great for straight cuts and long sweeping curves for instance if I were a saddle maker. However for a lot of the tight inside curve cuts that I make, welt trimming, lining trimming etc I would prefer to use (and do) something with more point on the end. The pointier the end the sharper curve that you can cut. Something like this I think would be more practical for general sheath work. This went to a BF memeber.

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My own personal one:

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Here's some examples of the type of cut I'm talking about. On the holster by the trigger guard and on the Beltless sheath on the right bottom curve from the sheath body to the belt loop strap.

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Or these curves on the leg yoke for this pair of woolies we were making.

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Even something as simple as these ladies spur straps I would find difficult with that design:

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Where that design would excel would be these martingales or rifle scabbard. Long straight cuts and sweeping curves.

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So maybe think on the use of the knife before locked into a design.
 
Yes, real "swish" ones !!
I've had a few from back many years. They have all been in that shape an had been forged out.
Frank
 
OK Dave I will take your advice on this because I have not used a round knife at all, My cutting to date has been done with an exacto knife. JT I will take 2 cut out the style Dave has on the before mentioned post.
 
JT, is it possible to modify the profile slightly, so one end is a bit more pointy for the tighter radius curves? If so, I would like one from the batch, if that could work for the design. Can the waterjet have two holes bored for a grip as well?
 
If I can get a dimension, say tip to tip, of Stuarts knife, I can draw a DXF for waterjet/laser with various tip profiles and holes.
 
They come in all kinds of sizes. From as small as2-3" across point to point to as large as 6-7" across or bigger. My own personal ones are about 4 to 4.25 point to point. Many commerical roundknives (I'm thinking of some of the Tancy ones and the Osbornes) have too much handle. They were desinged this way on purpose for the end user to reshape as suitable for themselves.
 
I have made some with more of a blunt nose on one end. They cut well but I still prefer a little more pointy.

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Understand thats just my preference and doesn't make any other way right or wrong.

This is what you are trying to get. Slicing easily through 10oz saddle leather. Doesn't take much to stick it in the cutting board. When I started making my own roundknives I had to switch to this Hydroma cutting board. I'd get stuck in the roller mats or the white polys.

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How I hold the knife and use it for probably 90 percent of what I do. Again not right or wrong here just what I'm use too. Trimming a welt in a sheath here.

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kuraki said:
If I can get a dimension, say tip to tip, of Stuarts knife, I can draw a DXF for waterjet/laser with various tip profiles and holes.
Click to expand...

Maybe we should team up on this. I got the steel and you got the laser and our powers combined we are captain planet or maybe captain crunch lol.
 
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