Need opinions on round knife

Dave, is the purpose of having two sides/points just to be able to flip to the sharpest one as you're cutting? Because based on your explanation of how they're used I was thinking of having a blunter end and one sharper end, one for longer cuts and the other for tighter corners.

Thank you for your input by the way it's very helpful.
 
With my non symmetrical roundknives thats exactly how i use em. I use the short side for general cutting and the longer side for skivving (thinning leather down), roll cuts and sharp curves. Back when I would use store bought knives that were symetrical once one side started dragging ya'd flip to the other. Most experience leatherworkers can rotate a roundknife around like Ringo and Doc Holiday in Tombstone. Ya bet. Glad to help.

Here I've used the long side to slice a skive on this welt so that when the sheath is glued up and sewn the three layers transition smoothly to two.

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Do you use the same knife to thin out the flesh side of say an entire sheath? That's something I've tried to do with a "safety skiver" with little success.
 
Maybe I worded that incorrectly. I've been buying split shoulders of veg tan 9-10 oz. Most of the material is fine as is. Some of it is a bit fleshier than the rest. Really just trying to skim some of that flesh off rather than actually splitting it into say 6 oz leather.

But between sanding like you recommend and a safety skiver it seemed like there weren't a whole lot of other options. Both work. If I strop the safety skiver blades before using them they work a little better.
 
Springfield Leather via Ebay. I've been really pleased with the stuff I've gotten from them.
 
kuraki said:
Springfield Leather via Ebay. I've been really pleased with the stuff I've gotten from them.
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I wish that was my experience with Springfield. The last hide I got from them looked like it had been packed with a bulldozer. They did offer to exchange it, but what a PITA.

Wickett and Craig is where I'm buying from now.
 
Chuck I can understand. I've only purchased two shoulders and 10 square feet of Buffalo from them but it's been quite satisfactory.
 
JTknives said:
If there was a few of you interested and you could all settle of a design I would not mind dropping a sheet of 15n20 off at the water jet place and having blankes cut for you guys. I could even heat treat them for you.
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Id be down on this
 
Decent shoulders shouldn't have too much fleshy parts on em. I too favor Wickett and Craig but also use alot of Herman Oak as well but I do buy sides not double shoulders. All double shoulders are imported leather for info. Springfield's printed catalog has a lot of info on double shoulders. Pretty interesting reading. Sanding would probably be the best way of getting rid of some of those fuzzies. Another trick is to slick the flesh side with some gum traganath and a very hard piece of wood. I use a handle block of ligum vitae that I bought from Sheffield so long ago I can't remeber how long. Anyhoo rounded the corners and I use that for all my slicking. While your building a roundknife build ya a skivver too and toss that Ssafety skivver they are about useless. I've tried em several times over the years and always toss em. A good seeming idea that doesn't bear out.
 
Alpha Knife Supply said:
We have some thin blade steel in stock:
.044” - M2
.050” - D2
.058” - CPM 20CV
.068” - CPM M4
.070” - CPM 3V
.070” - CPM S30V
.076” - CPM 10V

I would like to know how 10V would work for a round knife. I have a couple knives made from 10V. The knives have phenomenal edge holding.

Chuck
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Any chances of getting 13c26 or AEB-L back in stock in the .050" range?

Chris
 
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