Need some advise on how to fix my knife.

Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
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Hey guys, been a while.

Sorry for abandoning the gang like that, but I'm broke, and looking at INFI porn when you are broke hurts, a lot.

But as I promised when I was buying my knife it was gonna get used and not looked at. (that's why I bought two, my GW is more of a look at thing as it turned out, I just can't force myself to mess with it on serious stuff, anyway where was I, oh yeah) So, while my Badger was getting used (I needed to use something as lever, and unfortunately my knife was the only suitable thing around, anywho the knife got the job done) the blade didn't return to its original position. Not ragging on the knife, I was impressed it returned that far, I didn't expect it to.

But as it is a tool, I didn't care much for it looking pretty, just had to get the job done. I just kept on using it as it was, it wasn't a big pain and is hardly noticeable.

However why not fix it, if its an easy job. So i was wondering weather anybody here had to bend knives? And is there some technique or something.
So the question is, whats the easiest do it yourself way to get my knife straight?
 
Pics please!!!

I don't know how to get it straight, but would love to hear some details on what you were prying... Good pics and a good story will get a lot of attention! The only suggestion I have is to send it to the shop. They may keep it as a novelty and work out a deal with you?!?!
 
I'd think you need to do the exact opposite of what bent the blade in the first place :)
 
I'd think you need to do the exact opposite of what bent the blade in the first place :)

I would think that the structure of the INFI is going to be wrecked if it just get's bent again...


I'd think another heat treat would be required.
 
Sorry I don't have any pics.

And the blade is like 2-3 degrees off (maybe more I didn't exactly measure it) so its a minor thing, as I said its a user. So pictures would suck anyway. And sending it in to Jerry well, I mean hell its like going to emergency room with a paper cut.

Although paper cut can get infected. And that bothers me, you might be right the structure of INFI might get out of wack. Still I'm not exactly loaded with cash, the knife still functions about as well as it did before. I wonder if I can just bend it somehow so I don't screw it up even more.

Oh well either way the knife served me well for about a year of abuse, and I don't think it'll give out now, even if the structure is a bit wrecked its still a great knife.
 
If it were me I would put the knife in a vise with woode pads between the blade and the jaws. Positioning the hinge of the bend at the top edge of the jaws. Then I would bend the handle opposite to the bend present. Go slowly and apply even pressure no jerks or using a piece of pipe for extra leverage.

You should be able to get it straight that way. The worst that will happen is the blade will break and you send it to Jerry the best is that you straighten the knife out.

Disclaimer: This is just what I would do though and I in no way speak for Busse in this matter.
 
Volk,
You might be able to straighten the blade if, as mfaster7 mentions, you bend it the other way exactly where and how it was bent the first time but you would end up with a blade that would be more weakened than it already is. Explanation to follow. WARNING: Engineering Content!
Metals have an elastic limit followed by a plastic range. A stress (force) applied causes a strain (response) in the metal. Tension (pulling) causes the metal to stretch while compression (pushing) causes the metal to contract. Below the elastic limit, once the stress is removed, the strain returns to zero and the is no permanent change in the length or shape of the piece. Force applied beyond the elastic limit, into the plastic range, permanently deforms the metal and subjects the deformed area to a phenomenon known as strain hardening. This hardening makes the deformed area more brittle and more subject to brittle fracture. Bending your Badger as far as you did stressed it into the plastic range and stretched one side of the blade while slightly compressing the other side. The stretched side is a little thinner and the compressed side is a trace thicker.
By trying to bend the blade back to straight, you will at best end up with a blade with a thinner, harder, more brittle section running from spine to edge that will not be as tough as the rest of the blade and, for a Busse or any knife, that makes it a relatively weak spot.
By sending it to Jerry, he may be able to straighten it by annealing (softening with heat) the blade, then bending it back, re-hardening and re-tempering to finish the job but I don't think that the result would be up to Jerry's standards. Try calling or e-mailing Amy-0 or Jerry. Talk to someone at Busse to see what they want to (or are willing to) do. Please let us all know how this turns out.
Pete
 
Volk,
You might be able to straighten the blade if, as mfaster7 mentions, you bend it the other way exactly where and how it was bent the first time but you would end up with a blade that would be more weakened than it already is. Explanation to follow. WARNING: Engineering Content!
Metals have an elastic limit followed by a plastic range. A stress (force) applied causes a strain (response) in the metal. Tension (pulling) causes the metal to stretch while compression (pushing) causes the metal to contract. Below the elastic limit, once the stress is removed, the strain returns to zero and the is no permanent change in the length or shape of the piece. Force applied beyond the elastic limit, into the plastic range, permanently deforms the metal and subjects the deformed area to a phenomenon known as strain hardening. This hardening makes the deformed area more brittle and more subject to brittle fracture. Bending your Badger as far as you did stressed it into the plastic range and stretched one side of the blade while slightly compressing the other side. The stretched side is a little thinner and the compressed side is a trace thicker.
By trying to bend the blade back to straight, you will at best end up with a blade with a thinner, harder, more brittle section running from spine to edge that will not be as tough as the rest of the blade and, for a Busse or any knife, that makes it a relatively weak spot.
By sending it to Jerry, he may be able to straighten it by annealing (softening with heat) the blade, then bending it back, re-hardening and re-tempering to finish the job but I don't think that the result would be up to Jerry's standards. Try calling or e-mailing Amy-0 or Jerry. Talk to someone at Busse to see what they want to (or are willing to) do. Please let us all know how this turns out.
Pete


Nice clean explanation. :thumbup:

.
 
I want to see an all-bent-out-of-shape pic. Spine shot would be great.

+1 on checking with the Shop.
 
Hold it. You bent a Badger. (Assume a BATAC.) Just brute strength or a pipe for leverage??? What the hey were you prying up????

Wow!
 
If you do attempt to bend it yourself make sure you wear gloves and safety glasses (face shield is better) and a long sleeve shirt. I don't think it will break but sometimes things happen. :eek:
 
Yep, that's what I was afraid of. Even after I went at it a little bit the results were as described by pmsayre. That effect can be seen with a naked eye, one side of the blade is more curved then the other. And now come to think of it, it bends a bit easier then it did the first time...

Hmmm... Well in its current condition its still better then a lot of knives out there, and I can't really spend any more money on getting it treated right now. It'll have to do until l come by some extra $$$.
 
Well it can't hurt to ask.

I'll try to get you guys a picture, but its nothing impressive, I mean I wasn't trying to break it. And I did straightened it a little as well.

The biggest problem is the fact that its bent not straight across but diagonally, so bending it back is kinda hard because I can't exactly figure out where to bend it.
 
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