Need stainless advice

AEBL XHP or cpm154 will all work great i useXHP cause its finer then cpm154 and still made here in the USA
as for not quite SS i have switched from 3V to PD1 due to being able to get a bit more hardnesss at the same strength due to finer power used (my camp knife has 13 inch blade and is RC64) its crazy but shows jsut how overkill 3v's toughness is for th end user
 
That PD1 looks really ncie but boy its spendy aint it...About $100 for a 1.5" x 36" x .187 piece on the site I looked at.
 
OUCH!!!!! $112 for the Blanchard/surface ground stuff actually!!!That is pricey!!!! If you were suing a lot of that stuff and bought a full sheet of the unground stuff, a piece that size would be $75. The grading cost gets even more painful for the slightly cheaper steels. A full 24 x 36 sheet of the 40CP at kitchen knife thickness is like $518, but a ground sheet is $784!!!! I figure with best possible yield of around 40 blade blanks for say a wa handled 210mm gyuto would give you an $6.65 of extra cost per blade blank just for that Blanchard grinding. Thats kind of a good argument for buying a cheap old manual surface grinder off of eBay!!!!!!!!
Kentucky said:
That PD1 looks really ncie but boy its spendy aint it...About $100 for a 1.5" x 36" x .187 piece on the site I looked at.
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D2, N690, 3V, or AEBL would all work. All very reasonable in price. I would probably go with D2 or 3V for that cool design.
 
i never buy preground steel it jsut doent make sense to me since in the kitchen im doing full hight grinds and the tangs clean up fasat post HT
let me see if i can find some unground PD1 barstock
jsut loooked at SB metals and i think you shoudl contact them and ask for a few unground bars at the .207-.227 spec (often times they will shear you what ever size piece you want like 6 inch by 3 foot part sheet)
 
justjed said:
Not the answer you're looking for, but I prefer 5160. Maybe a Clear Cera-kote, or even a fine layer of clear epoxy on the tang before the wrap? And you wouldn't have to change your HT formula. Just a thought....
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This is the answer. Seriously, it would take no time to dip the tang in clear epoxy, and would allow you to use any steel.
 
If your looking for a stainless with similar properties to 5160, 12c27, or 12c27M, would be close. AEB-L would also work, and is easier to find. If you can find some 420HC with carbon up around 0.55, that would work as well.
 
I rub the tang down with mineral oil befor wrapping and wipe my hands down with minerial oil. If I don't then the fingerprints creat rust spots because there is quite a bit of handling that goes on when wrapping this wrap. The epoxy dip is not a bad idea as long as it did not look tacky and cheep. I could then make the blade out of CPM-3V as I need to "upgrade" from 5160. Not that I think 5160 is lacking at all, but the general public for the most part seams to be done with 5160. As much as it pains me I must bend to the will of demand and except the "super steels" and start using them.
 
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