New Bark River Knife and Tool Bushcrafter...

Good looking knife. Great compromise between Aurora and Liten Bror. But I must agree with NeoClassic on this one....the handle tapering doesn't do it for me. I like to get close to the blade, and that's where I need some real estate.
I remember having the same issue with the Woodsman Pro from BHK.
Only by holding one I can really tell,...... but looks like all good knives are getting expensive....exotic steel or not.
Like someone said above, I wouldn't mind some good ol' A2 on this one.

NeoClassic said:
The way the handle tapers to toward the blade makes it seem more like a hunting/skinning knife, like the Fox River. For strong cuts into hard material, a thicker handle up toward the blade would seem more appropriate.

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It's probably me, but I just can't see the value of this knife being anywhere near what BR charges ---- not just this model either.

I GET that they have kinda a cult following on this forum. I just can't see spending that kind of $$$$ for them.
 
What if you really use your knife for bushcrafting and get a roll/dent or worse a chip on the edge and you not only have to deal with a lot of scandi grinding to get that repaired but now you really can only use stropping motion on sandpaper cause you have a scandivex and unfortunately you also have a 3V steel knife???

I'd like to see an easy repair outdoors of a damaged 3V scandivex edge. Sure one can say, since you have 3V you never get a problem with the edge in the first place but that I doubt. Just my 2 cents.
 
Why would it be any harder than most other steels? I've used 3V for years with no problems, i don't understand why everyone makes such a big deal over it... Bring DMT red/blue diafold, problem solved. Diamonds eat through 3V (and any other steel) in no time.
 
awestib said:
What if you really use your knife for bushcrafting and get a roll/dent or worse a chip on the edge and you not only have to deal with a lot of scandi grinding to get that repaired but now you really can only use stropping motion on sandpaper cause you have a scandivex and unfortunately you also have a 3V steel knife???

I'd like to see an easy repair outdoors of a damaged 3V scandivex edge. Sure one can say, since you have 3V you never get a problem with the edge in the first place but that I doubt. Just my 2 cents.
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3Vs' main attribute is toughness not abrasion resistance. Sure it is a bit more abrasion resistant than some other steels but it is no where near some of the other super steels.

Add the fact of how thin this actual edge really is ........ if you don't have the skill to fix this one you don't have the skill to fix any blade. Truth is 3V might only take minutes/few strokes longer.

I assume that you have never used a thin blade in 3V.
 
Brian Sargent said:
3Vs' main attribute is toughness not abrasion resistance. Sure it is a bit more abrasion resistant than some other steels but it is no where near some of the other super steels.

Add the fact of how thin this actual edge really is ........ if you don't have the skill to fix this one you don't have the skill to fix any blade. Truth is 3V might only take minutes/few strokes longer.

I assume that you have never used a thin blade in 3V.
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I have chipped a 3v scandi blade before. It's handy to have a diamond plate and some coarser grit wet dry.
 
hollowdweller said:
I have chipped a 3v scandi blade before. It's handy to have a diamond plate and some coarser grit wet dry.
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So have I. My Skookum in 3V. I touched it up on a DC-4. Then put a piece of 320 on top of the DC-4. Then to 400, 600, 1000 ... hone with black compound.
 
Brian Sargent said:
So have I. My Skookum in 3V. I touched it up on a DC-4. Then put a piece of 320 on top of the DC-4. Then to 400, 600, 1000 ... hone with black compound.
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Do you take all that into the field with you?

I hope the blade was still cutting if you needed it....
 
fmajor007 said:
Do you take all that into the field with you?

I hope the blade was still cutting if you needed it....
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Yeah , I do.

I've hit grains of sand/dirt several times.

Bark on the Oaks and Pines around here are especially dirty.

I've dinged up blades at the beach cutting Bamboo for the kids to play with.

They're always still cutting but if I'm on a multi-day backpacking, hunting or camping trip there is always a little time to do some tool maintenance.

It doesn't take up a lot of room at all.

The DC-4, wet/dry and a leather hone can fit in a wallet.

This kit goes with me on all my trips.

IMG_7834.jpg


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Thats a good mini sharpening set up! I like it. I have been wanting one of the DC4 stones...would you say its the best in its class In your opinion...I have a thing for small sharpening gizmo's, and this one has been in my "cart" on several websites, only to be pulled at the last minute.
Nice Skookum by the way!
 
@gunknifenut

Thanks!

I don't have a lot of experience with several diamond plate manufactures so I can't say how that part compares to others.

What is cool is having the ceramic on one side.

It takes awhile for the diamonds(which I think might actually be synthetic sapphires) to mellow out ... they start out pretty aggressive.

In a pinch, with just the DC-4 .... if you need to you can easily get a hair popping edge. Albeit probably toothy/burr but it works.

Add the papers/hone and you get a pretty good polished edge.

(note ...... the early DC stones didn't like water so mine has been separated and the epoxied back together ........ I've heard the new ones don't do that.)

Another cool thing is that the DC-4 provide a good flat platform for the paper and hone.

I love the Skookum ...... great knives!
 
Brian Sargent said:
@gunknifenut

Thanks!

I don't have a lot of experience with several diamond plate manufactures so I can't say how that part compares to others.

What is cool is having the ceramic on one side.

It takes awhile for the diamonds(which I think might actually be synthetic sapphires) to mellow out ... they start out pretty aggressive.

In a pinch, with just the DC-4 .... if you need to you can easily get a hair popping edge. Albeit probably toothy/burr but it works.

Add the papers/hone and you get a pretty good polished edge.

(note ...... the early DC stones didn't like water so mine has been separated and the epoxied back together ........ I've heard the new ones don't do that.)

Another cool thing is that the DC-4 provide a good flat platform for the paper and hone.

I love the Skookum ...... great knives!
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Thanks to you! I will have to get one then. I like having a stone set up on my sheath, and this one would be really cool in a custom leather sheath!
I love wet dry paper, I get it free from work, so I always have a pile of it! I have little folded pieces of it all over the place...I use it at work to clean my chisels a lot. Also to strop them after using my DMT to sharpen them...the paper is the path to a SHARP edge IMO.
 
Brian Sargent said:
Yeah , I do.

I've hit grains of sand/dirt several times.

Bark on the Oaks and Pines around here are especially dirty.

I've dinged up blades at the beach cutting Bamboo for the kids to play with.

They're always still cutting but if I'm on a multi-day backpacking, hunting or camping trip there is always a little time to do some tool maintenance.

It doesn't take up a lot of room at all.

The DC-4, wet/dry and a leather hone can fit in a wallet.

This kit goes with me on all my trips.

IMG_7834.jpg


IMG_7836.jpg


IMG_7837.jpg


IMG_7838.jpg
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Gotcha - that doesn't look so bad really. I just couldn't envision what you were talking about and it sounded like alot to my ignorant ears.

That's a really nice set-up there btw. I especially like the leather work.
 
fmajor007 said:
Gotcha - that doesn't look so bad really. I just couldn't envision what you were talking about and it sounded like alot to my ignorant ears.

That's a really nice set-up there btw. I especially like the leather work.
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Thanks!

After I read your post I figured that it was possible to imagine several Diamond plates, a mouse pad with full sheets of paper and a double sided paddle hone.

I wasn't exactly clear on my setup or its' application.

If I keep the edge fresh with light touch ups, I think it's less work in the long run.

:thumbup:
 
I have a diamond plate that I glued leather on one side. Then I bring some sandpaper of varying grits with me attached to the plate with a rubber band. That's really only when I'm carrying a 3v or D2.

If I'm carrying 01 then I have one of the Knives Ship Free little lightweight wooden strops with some sandpaper banded to it. Then in a tiny ziplock I have a big gun cleaning patch and a small peice of steel wool soaked in oil since the 01 is more prone to rust, not needed with the 3v or D2.
 
I have the Bark River Bushcrafter for about 2 weeks now...

I think the handle is absolutely fantastic!!! it is extremely comfortable in every grip position.. I still have to test it for extended use, but so far it is the best handle I've ever had in my hands.
on the other hand, I still don't know how I like the "conves scandi". in the beginning it seems strange, you have to get used to a different angel of attack.. but after getting used to it, it does everything I want it to do. I have had no complaints so far.. but still, I think I would like a full convex better. this handle with a Aurora blade on it, and I probably won't touch another knife again... the knife is a little bit heavy in the handle I think. with the balance point being just behind the first finger. at the same point as the koster bushcrafter. but with the BRKT bushcrafter being heavier than the koster, it is more noticed... but it's not a big deal. I notice it when I take the knife in my hand, but when I start using it, it doesn't bother me...

overall I love the knife because of the handle!! just love holding the knife.. feels like it's made for my hand. the blade.. I'm going to wait a bit on it, but I'm playing with the thought of grinding it higher, kind of like the aurora.

I am planning on making a full review because of the lack of it.. but have to find time..
 
NeoClassic said:
The way the handle tapers to toward the blade makes it seem more like a hunting/skinning knife, like the Fox River. For strong cuts into hard material, a thicker handle up toward the blade would seem more appropriate.

bc_s_black_canvas_red_liner_top.jpg
Click to expand...

That coke-bottle shape handle is fairly popular with the bushcrafting crowd.

I have enjoyed most of the Bark River's I have owned. I used to purchase every new model that came out, and frequented that forum a lot. I was never a big fan of how some people wound up getting treated there, though. If someone came along and said or did something that was deemed stupid, they were talked down to and generally attacked. Including by the Mike and Sharpshooter. It never happened to me, but it was a bit more abrasive than I like over there sometimes.

This included people that had issues with the knives they purchased. Complaints about very uneven grinds/handles and other problems were met with condescending responses about how the knives were hand ground and it was unreasonable to expect otherwise, and although they were stupid for asking, they should send the knife in and it would be fixed.

I received a few knives in a row that were very unevenly ground, so I just got rid of them and moved on. There are several makers here that I trust to give me the quality I want, so I deal with them.
 
Skrapmetal said:
That coke-bottle shape handle is fairly popular with the bushcrafting crowd.

I have enjoyed most of the Bark River's I have owned. I used to purchase every new model that came out, and frequented that forum a lot. I was never a big fan of how some people wound up getting treated there, though. If someone came along and said or did something that was deemed stupid, they were talked down to and generally attacked. Including by the Mike and Sharpshooter. It never happened to me, but it was a bit more abrasive than I like over there sometimes.

This included people that had issues with the knives they purchased. Complaints about very uneven grinds/handles and other problems were met with condescending responses about how the knives were hand ground and it was unreasonable to expect otherwise, and although they were stupid for asking, they should send the knife in and it would be fixed.

I received a few knives in a row that were very unevenly ground, so I just got rid of them and moved on. There are several makers here that I trust to give me the quality I want, so I deal with them.
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I've noticed the same thing with my bushcrafter.. but 30 minutes of work starting at 240 grit wet&dry moving up solved the problem of the uneven grinds...
 
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