New camera and lights

Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
973
I finally got around to buying myself a new camera and light kit. I was stumped as to how to get the color right until I had a quick phone conversation with Lunde. He hooked me right up. I took a few shots with the new set up and while they are not Lunde quality, I am pretty happy with them. I am still working on getting the lghts set up just right.

100_0041.jpg

100_0033.jpg

100_0032.jpg

100_0027.jpg

100_0020.jpg

100_0029.jpg
 
nice pics,
can I see a pic of that second one on the other side? What does that one fit?
 
Great pics! Looks like the camera will do a great job showing off your work!



HEY! That second one is my sheath!! LOL :p


Thanks again it looks awesome!!
 
Bro, you are gettin' all uptown on us. Pretty soon you'll be a corporate identity or somethin'!;):D
Nice work on the pics. I just got all my Sunpak studio flash eqipment and umbrellas back from storage, now if I can score a decent digi cam around Christmas time, I will also be getting some decent studio pics. Fun stuff.
Congrats!:thumbup:
 
You need to light side. It is common mistake many do even professional knife photographers (and lunde too). But it is so obvious!

Even light from the top does not light sides. So lower one of you lamp to light directly at side. Like you did for your last Batac sheath.

You have at least two lights - I see two shadows (even three I think). So one is for fill light from the top and you may use second for accent light- like your last photo, but movet a bit in front of the sheath. Left side is perfectly lighten but very front is darker (until you think it should be darker).

Background will looks more interesting if you allow that fabric some light folds which create some shadow pattern but not too much...

Just be natural - again, if smart and creative man just pay attention to what he is doing - he will not need too much advices...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Actually the best way to fill and avoid shadowing is to bounce the oblique flash off a white or silver surface and too use a softbox on one of your flash heads overhead.
But really, you (and Lunde) don't need advice.
 
Also you may try to set aperture value to 11 or something. 3.5 gives good depth field for this kind of optic, but if you are using tripod anyway you may set aperture to maximum (if it is possible).

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Actually the best way to fill and avoid shadowing is to bounce the oblique flash off a white or silver surface and too use a softbox on one of your flash heads overhead.
But really, you (and Lunde) don't need advice.

To highlight side you need direct light not bouncing. Bounced light will be always darker then direct so side will be always darker. Lunde get away with this because his background always white and so it bounce light back, but his experiments with black background show that it this case side will be dark and almost invisible.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Vassili,

I was pretty happy with the results. This was the first time I used the lightbox and it is a new camera. I have three lights, one on each side of the lightbox and one above. I played around with them a little bit. Some day when I get some extra time I will do some more experimenting. Thanks for the tips I will try it out next time I take some photos.

Chuck.
 
You do not need to experiment because you already did it here:


I just point it out. Here the light from left set lower - I can see this by long shadow at the right. And this is right approach.

And here side of the sheath really dark, which looks ugly when you compare it with previous picture


I also suggest you to try digital editing - to begin with you may try Adoe Element (which may be part of your camera package)
only one command "Enhance->AutoLevels". It fixes photo right in majority of cases.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Vassili, you wrote:
Also you may try to set aperture value to 11 or something. 3.5 gives good depth field for this kind of optic, but if you are using tripod anyway you may set aperture to maximum (if it is possible).
:confused:
 
Wow! The second one is much better lit and richer in color.
f11-f3.5 is an awfully wide range for any advice to hold any water.
As far as using Adobe for editing, Chuck can go to guys who really know, like Lunde and Rat Finkenstein to name just a couple. Autolevels is not a fix for lighting.

I suggest you do more homework on who and how you're critiquing before you give such advice.
 
Back
Top