New CTS-XHP 3.5" Flipper In the House

[cziv]

Wow look what the mailman dropped off today! I'm loving this baby and plan on using it soon. I wish I had a box to cut open or something!

This guys has the CTS-XHP as compared to the one for my son which was the Duratec 20CV. That one was very sharp but this sliced a sheet of free hanging printer paper, end to end with a barely audible hiss. It was like slicing with a Spyderco Military but with this rugged, thick Spanto blade. I love it.

What do you guys use for lube on a new XM-18 or are they already lubed? I didn't see any traces of oil.

Lightly etched blade steel type, then the knife:

 

[Noctis3880]

I got a new one today as well! The same exact one actually

Coincidence?

Though I have to ask if your XM-18 also happens to have a very loose lockbar/detent as well. It doesn't seem to affect my lockup(30%) given that a nice whack on the spine didn't loosen it up at all, but it kinda makes me paranoid about switching the clip to a tip up carry.

 

[cziv]

I got a new one today as well! The same exact one actually

Coincidence?

Though I have to ask if your XM-18 also happens to have a very loose lockbar/detent as well. It doesn't seem to affect my lockup(30%) given that a nice whack on the spine didn't loosen it up at all, but it kinda makes me paranoid about switching the clip to a tip up carry.

Like Rick & Rob have posted - they bend every XM-18 lockbar during assembly and no two are the same.

My son's XM-18 has a very weak (for lack of a better word) detent. I can hold it with the blade closed and jerk my hand downward and stop and the blade will pop open. I switched it to tip up for him and he's had a lot of pocket time with no problems. Lockup is between 25 - 30% and unchanged in 6 months. If he wants, he can just tighten the pivot with a drop of blue locktite - problem solved.

The one I got today is much stiffer to open - thus my question about lubrication. The detent is very solid and lockup is a solid 30%. No sharp jerks will pop this one's blade open. With a glove on, I dare say I could do a Cold Steel number and slam it though a car door.

Is my description of my son's XM-18 what you're asking about? Just tighten the pivot screw and locktite it until it's tougher for the blade to pop open.

Mine's perfect - I still think Duratec 20CV has more luster in it's finish - to my old eyeballs anyway...lol LOVE it!!

 

[Noctis3880]

Like Rick & Rob have posted - they bend every XM-18 lockbar during assembly and no two are the same.

My son's XM-18 has a very weak (for lack of a better word) detent. I can hold it with the blade closed and jerk my hand downward and stop and the blade will pop open. I switched it to tip up for him and he's had a lot of pocket time with no problems. Lockup is between 25 - 30% and unchanged in 6 months. If he wants, he can just tighten the pivot with a drop of blue locktite - problem solved.

The one I got today is much stiffer to open - thus my question about lubrication. The detent is very solid and lockup is a solid 30%. No sharp jerks will pop this one's blade open. With a glove on, I dare say I could do a Cold Steel number and slam it though a car door.

Is my description of my son's XM-18 what you're asking about? Just tighten the pivot screw and locktite it until it's tougher for the blade to pop open.

Mine's perfect - I still think Duratec 20CV has more luster in it's finish - to my old eyeballs anyway...lol LOVE it!!

Ah, that's good to know.

I was curious since I can't imagine any sort of lubing would make my knife any smoother. Also I'm not sure what sort of lube is good for the knife. I don't know about other people, but I'm always one for wanting the "best", and I would want a top lube for a top knife:thumbup:. I have some Chris Reeve Fluorinated Grease that worked pretty well for my ZT 0551, but I get the impression that you have to take the knife apart and put it between the washers, the blade, and the handle rather than simply dripping the stuff on the pivot area.

I don't see much of a need to make any changes to the pivot, as I'm liking tip down carry a lot more these days and wrist flicking the blade open doesn't seem all that bad given that I only need little if any force to do so.

 

[Output]

Congrats! Put it to good use

 

[cziv]

I treated mine with Militec-1 for 2 days and not only is it 99.9% rust proofed but it's so fast that I'm glad I didn't break the pivot open and loosen it. The lube has taken all the stiffness out. It now has a very soft detent. Pretty cool side effect of the Militec-1. :thumbup:

And did I mention Rick or whoever put the final edge on this one has it so sharp, it slices a piece of copy paper end to end, in one stroke with a barely audible hiss!

 

[rickCPD]

I treated mine with Militec-1 for 2 days and not only is it 99.9% rust proofed but it's so fast that I'm glad I didn't break the pivot open and loosen it. The lube has taken all the stiffness out. It now has a very soft detent. Pretty cool side effect of the Militec-1. :thumbup:

And did I mention Rick or whoever put the final edge on this one has it so sharp, it slices a piece of copy paper end to end, in one stroke with a barely audible hiss!

I'm a fan of the stiffer detent. This way it serves its purpose of providing good closed blade retention.

I haven't tried militec. I rarely even use lube. The blades are already smooth. If I I do lube them I just hit it with a shot of wd40. I like keeping things simple. Lol.

 

[cziv]

I'm a fan of the stiffer detent. This way it serves its purpose of providing good closed blade retention.

I haven't tried militec. I rarely even use lube. The blades are already smooth. If I I do lube them I just hit it with a shot of wd40. I like keeping things simple. Lol.

I'm not a fan of WD - because of it's scent and it deteriorates rubber & some rubber/polymer parts. I do agree, the KISS method leaves more of the brain freed up for other more important activity.

 

[rickCPD]

I'm not a fan of WD - because of it's scent and it deteriorates rubber & some rubber/polymer parts. I do agree, the KISS method leaves more of the brain freed up for other more important activity.

Rick uses WD40 in the shop so I'm sure it's fine. I sometimes don't have the time to apply lube. Heat it. Then repeat. Lol

 

[cziv]

Rick uses WD40 in the shop so I'm sure it's fine. I sometimes don't have the time to apply lube. Heat it. Then repeat. Lol

I tend to agree. Ya know I heard that from an Army (Camp Perry) armorer who told me NEVER use WD-40 on your guns. He may have been full of crap or something but I was just quoting him.

So many guys do use WD that it must be safe to use or we'd have heard about it by now.

I admit to being "highly regimented" (not anal or ocd :barf: ) I can do the lube in about 3 minutes and a few re-heats in a minute. Total investment of time is about 12 minutes of my life to never have to lube or sweat rust in my knives and guns. The government uses this stuff to protect from heat, water, dust you name it on rifles (guns of all sorts). I like it.

 

[TJAZ]

I've heard Rick uses Starrett tool oil and recently I've seen posts saying they also use LPS-TKX. I've tried both with great results.
WD-40 is a great water displacer and cleaner, but I don't believe it's a very good lubricant.

 

[13ninjas]

What do you guys use for lube on a new XM-18 or are they already lubed? I didn't see any traces of oil.

I use Break Free CLP on my two XM's to keep them fliptastic.

It is a good lubricating and protective oil IMO, I use it on my guns too.

http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp

I have the 4 oz. liquid bottle. I have generously used it on all of my guns and knives for the past 2-3 years and it is almost empty. I will be buying some more!

Congrats on the blade! :thumbup:

 

[Noctis3880]

I hope you also ordered the appropriate orange scale to replace the plain jane black scale. I don't know why, but that bright orange color is just very pleasing to the eye:thumbup:.

 

[cziv]

I hope you also ordered the appropriate orange scale to replace the plain jane black scale. I don't know why, but that bright orange color is just very pleasing to the eye:thumbup:.

I like the blue/black scale that Rick's offering. That may be the one if I change, but I like black the best.

 

[rickCPD]

I've been to the shop a few times. I'm pretty familiar with what they use. They pretty much have it all in that shop. You name it. They have it.

I'm not getting into scientific details. I'm just saying that I use WD40 on my Hinderer's. The pivot area only. Never caused any harm and it does the job. To each his own.

I would never use WD40 on my guns. Ever. haha.

 

[rickCPD]

I like the blue/black scale that Rick's offering. That may be the one if I change, but I like black the best.

The new blue/black scale is bad ass. Shows a lot more blue than the older one. The first blue/black scale is one of my favorites. So I'm sure I'll love the new one!

 

[Watarski]

Looks great. I handled my first one today - a 3.5" non-flipper. Definitely prefer your stonewashed frame and the flipper. You'll have to let us know how it keeps up.

If they still offered the original blue/black scale, I probably would have ordered that one. The new one has a little too much royal blue, but that's just me.

 

[Gress]

I read how cziv is using miltec and now I see Rick is using wd40 and it sounds like the man himself is using it in the shop. Perhaps something to consider.
For now I never used any lube on my Hinderers including my user xm18 3". It gets wet sometimes and I try to dry after a job done. No rust spots whatsoever. I have not had lubed it at all as it employs teflon washers and I did not think it would need any lubrication. I do take it apart and clean it out from time to time. What is a need for a lube apart from rust prevention?
I do use miltec (although not as complicated as cziv's BKM) on my other folders and especially on Striders. There is where you need it I also lube my 3v blades regularly but this is different steel and different story

 

[cziv]

I have not had lubed it at all as it employs teflon washers and I did not think it would need any lubrication. I do take it apart and clean it out from time to time. What is a need for a lube apart from rust prevention?

I use it for blades I feel might need a rust/dust barrier. Here's why I Miltec-1'ed my new XM-18 - got it the same day as Noctis 3880. His blade:

You'll see mine water tested tomorrow.

 

[Noctis3880]

Hmm, so your blade never actually rusted itself before you applied the lube? Also, is there some sort of technique for flipping? I saw one YouTube video of one guy flipping it out with no wrist motion like it was an assisted opener, but the blade just sort of flops out a third of the way and stays there no matter how fast I try to do it.