New hatchet from the surplus store!

T

TheCanadian

Joined
Sep 11, 2012
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So I was heading for bass pro shop and we stopped briefly in at the surplus store. While looking around I found what I was looking for (some paracord and a small first aide kit) I spotted some cold steel tomahawks and I was liking them but then I gave it back to the fella and shook my head he showed me a hatchet that was half the price and he said it was Swiss (or Swedish? I can't remember which he told me) surplus.

I'm no expert but the head looks nice, the edge is dull and the handle might need some sanding but it feels like once it gets some TLC it's going to be a nice hatchet. I have no idea if the handle grain is the right direction or whatever (not sure which way is right)

New hatchet. https://imgur.com/gallery/sTLge
 
TheCanadian said:
So I was heading for bass pro shop and we stopped briefly in at the surplus store. While looking around I found what I was looking for (some paracord and a small first aide kit) I spotted some cold steel tomahawks and I was liking them but then I gave it back to the fella and shook my head he showed me a hatchet that was half the price and he said it was Swiss (or Swedish? I can't remember which he told me) surplus.

I'm no expert but the head looks nice, the edge is dull and the handle might need some sanding but it feels like once it gets some TLC it's going to be a nice hatchet. I have no idea if the handle grain is the right direction or whatever (not sure which way is right)

New hatchet. https://imgur.com/gallery/sTLge
Click to expand...
Flip through a book, that's the idea with grain orientation.
The grain should try to run as vertical as possible.

I believe these are Swedish, I've seen them in surplus and sportsmans guide catalogs a lot in the last couple years.

BTW these I believe are more of a house axe or miners axe as they're often called, It's an axe sized head on a short handle. I guess you could call it a hatchet on steroids.
I could be wrong though as there could've been some that were actually normal hatchets.
 
No you summed it up pretty good, it's a hatchet on steroids for sure. It felt the same in my hand as the cold steel hawk.

So the grain in my handle runs from the bottom to the top almost perfect straight then twists slightly near the top. That's looking at the back of the handle along the "spine".

Does anyone have any idea what the stamp means? Like I know in general it means it's from Switzerland (or Sweden..) but what does the C F L stand for?
 
Pretty much universally accepted as a Swiss surplus. They are good.
Its that "CFL" logo really throws me.
Its very similar to Denmark Civil Defense.
It maybe an no longer used logo of some Swiss agency. Swiss much like much of europe substantially revised their military 20 ish years ago. Maybe its the forging company logo. I dunno....
 
Or the company listing them messed up. I've seen that MANY times before. I have some Polish rain capes that are olive drab, and the company I bought them from had them listed as Russian and khaki. :D
 
I like the axe/hatchet... hatchaxe? A bit of a longer handle will be nice but that's a future project for me.

I have knives that are really sharp for doing things that require a sharp edge, I've not got much experience with axes though, how sharp should it be to chop/split wood. I'm not expecting to fell any big trees with it, mostly just a camping axe for small wood. I'm not very strong. I imagine I'd be cutting a variety of soft and hard woods as well.
 
The sharper the better. Dull axes glance. If it will shave arm hairs to start then your good. You needn't keep it quite that sharp. Polishing the edge helps it release slightly better. If you're a fussbudget like many of us you'll enjoy sharpening it anyway. I high quality file and an axe stone (puck) are all you need but a vise or some clamps are helpful.

Here's a good place to start:
https://www.pcta.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/an_ax_to_grind.pdf?x99107
 
It's not a stamp I'm familiar with but if it's Swiss-made (or Swiss milspec-ed from the Jerries) it'll beat the pants off a hecho en Mexico, Indian or Chinese equivalent.
 
I think I'll maybe pay someone to sharpen it. I don't really know how to but I will learn using my old Estwing camp axe as a test subject. I know with stones and pucks and files there's different grits, what file would I use? I google axe files and there's far too many options for me to know which is a "decent" one.
 
A 10" or 12" double cut file is great for axes. For coarseness a second cut is very general purpose. A mill file (fine) is too slow and a bastard file (coarse) leaves a rough edge and may not bite into the hard steel of an axe as well as the medium coarse second cut file.

http://www.simondsint.com/handfiles/HAND FILES PUBLICATIONS/File Facts.pdf

I've found the current import files from Simonds to be OK and a cut above other import files from the far east or Latin America. Pferd makes good files but IMO aren't the quality that American files once were. If you can find a NOS (new old stock) Heller file you'll be in heaven.

Grobet files are also quite good.
 
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TheCanadian said:
I think I'll maybe pay someone to sharpen it. I don't really know how to but I will learn using my old Estwing camp axe as a test subject. I know with stones and pucks and files there's different grits, what file would I use? I google axe files and there's far too many options for me to know which is a "decent" one.
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At the hardware store merely ask for an 'axe file'. These are labelled and stamped as such and have coarse on one side and fine on the other and have a built in handle. Vintage 'made in USA' or 'Cobourg Ontario' Nicholsons are superior to current Mexican versions but you're only sharpening one axe at the moment and the cash outlay is modest. Stay the H away from angle grinders, bench grinders and belt sanders until such time that you know exactly what you're doing. On YouTube you will be able to find Old Axeman's series called An Axe to Grind for angles, profiles and proper technique.
 
I only live like an hour from Cobourg Ontario so that would be neat if I could find one of them files! I am watching the "An Axe to Grind" video right now too and I am on the lookout for an axe file and puck! I love bladeforums because you always get the help you need, you guys are awesome!

I am going to make a simple leather sheath for it so I can attach it to my pack I think.
 
TheCanadian said:
I only live like an hour from Cobourg Ontario so that would be neat if I could find one of them files! I am watching the "An Axe to Grind" video right now too and I am on the lookout for an axe file and puck! I love bladeforums because you always get the help you need, you guys are awesome!
I am going to make a simple leather sheath for it so I can attach it to my pack I think.
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Not much in the way of industry in become-sleepy-bedroom-community-of-Toronto that defines Coburg, anymore. Cooey Manufacturing was based in Cobourg and on it's own produced more 22s and single barrel shotguns over 75 years than there ever were total number of all firearms entered in the infamous Canadian Firearms Registry! Nicholson had a large file and rasp factory there too until about 40 years ago. Somewhere I have a lovely Cobourg Nicholsons 'how to select files and use them' booklet titled "Fileosophy" that was published in 1959.
 
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I like anything Canadian made and if I can't get Canadian made I look for American made. I sometimes end up with "Made in China" things but most of my tools are American made. Apparently my axe is Swiss and that's awesome too. I love military surplus from all over the world to be honest...

In that "An Axe to grind" he mentioned a tool call a four in the hand (I think) and it was two rasps and two files in one tool. Something about that makes me think it would be a good pack tool for maintaining my axe as the file would let me get it at least roughly sharp and the rasp would help if I was ever forced to replace the handle in the woods. I actually originally wanted a Tomahawk because it seemed like it would be easier to replace the handle in the field but when I seen the axe I remembered I wasn't afraid of a challenge.
 
Square_peg said:
I've meant to post some video of my filing technique for some time. I finally got around to uploading some video. I think this is good technique. Much of the motion is in the legs and body.

The axe is a vintage Plumb double bit reversible. It's a true reversible with the eye measuring the same size top and bottom. A straight edge place against either end of the eye reveals a flat surface with no taper at all.

Hope you enjoy the video.

[video=youtube;lSNK6i3mudA]

[video=youtube;PBbmp2Vwq0A]


WARNING!!!!!

NEVER LEAVE A SHARP TOOL IN THE VISE!!!!!

Somebody can bump into it and do themselves a major body trauma. Imagine stumbling into a razor sharp axe that's mounted solid as a rock. Big ouch!
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Here is a good thread + a video that S Square_peg made.

As far as files, I find that there are several patterns from fine to coarse that I use. Maybe someone can chime in on the most versatile one if you have to do it with just one?


Who wouldn't use this axe :thumbsup::

An-Axe-to-Grind-Cut-Handle-Here.jpg
 
Maybe someone can chime in on the most versatile one if you have to do it with just one?
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I find a 10" or 12" double cut second cut to be best for filing axes. Double cut means there's a crossing pattern cut diagonally in the file. Second cut is in between 'mill' (fine) and 'bastard' (coarse).
 
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