New Platen Advice

panch0

panch0

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
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I just got a 2x8 Ceramic Platen for my Craftsman 2x42. I am planning on using JB weld to fasten it to the existing steel platen. Is there any gotchas or something I need to do before I install it? Thanks.
-frank
 
Make sure your steel platen is FLAT if not you'll crack that puppy in no time.and next time,use plate glass.dirt cheap and works just aswell.
 
balibalistic said:
Make sure your steel platen is FLAT if not you'll crack that puppy in no time.and next time,use plate glass.dirt cheap and works just aswell.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, what is a good way to check for flat. I guess I would grind it on the flatwheel?
 
It really isn't so important that the steel platen is flat when you glue on the glass. The glass that you grind against has to be flat. Clean both surfaces and apply the JB weld. I usually do a flattened fogure 8 with the JB Weld. Do not get any in the holes where you screw the platen on. That's a problem.

Clamp it up, let it set up and you are ready to go. Bevel the top and bottom glass edges so the belt runs across it easier.

Don't use your glass platen for profiling. If you do, you will ultimately have the same dips you did in the steel platen. It just takes longer.

Because the glass is the surface that is carrying the belt and stress, you don't need hardened steel underneath it. You can make the backing out of whatever you want that won't flex.

You will need to use shorter screws to attach the new platen. If you crank a screw in tight that is just a hair too long it will press on the glass and break it. I had one of those, too.

Gene
 
If I recall correctly, the 2 x 42 platen is smaller than 2 x 8. It is important that whatever is supporting the ceramic is flat and completely backs the whole ceramic plate. The reason the backing has to be flat is that JBweld will not adequately support the ceramic - and it will crack. Any dips - even if filled with JB will represent a weakness.

Lastly, IIRC, the craftsman has only one honkin fast speed. Please try to envision what the results may be if the thing comes apart - and always were your safety glasses at least.

Rob!
 
Here's a pic of the ceramic platen. It has no screw holes and the Ellis web site's directions call for JB weld. Should I try and make screw holes with a step drill bit or just jb weld?. I am going to put a lip at the bottom of the steel platen in the event it were come unglued.
picture.php
 
Good idea with the lip. I have heard lots of horrow stories from guys who didn't.
 
Hi,

I am just about to purchase one of the craftsman 2X42 got a fast opinion about it?
 
Well it is kind of fast, the platen sucks. I am about to put the ceramic platen and from what I have read it makes a world of difference. All in all I like it. I know there is better out there. But for this begginer it seems to work just fine. I have sent out my first three blades for HT and the plunge is not straight but the ceramic platen should fix it up on the next two I have ground out. Hope that helps.
 
panch0 said:
Here's a pic of the ceramic platen. It has no screw holes and the Ellis web site's directions call for JB weld. Should I try and make screw holes with a step drill bit or just jb weld?. I am going to put a lip at the bottom of the steel platen in the event it were come unglued.
picture.php
Click to expand...

Do not make any holes in the ceramic! Clean both platen and ceramic and apply the JB Weld. Let it set over night before you use it.
 
Its tough to learn on something so limited and fast. If you can grind on that you can grind on anything. If possible, save your money and buy a Coote w/step pulley or other machine made for knifemaking. I am very happy with mine.
 
Ok here's what I have so far.

1. Took off the platen, gave it a few passes with 30 grit belt.
picture.php


2. Drilled some metaltapping screws through the rear of the plate to provide a lip of sorts.
picture.php


3. Here is the pic of the ceramic platen as it will be once I jb weld the baby on.
picture.php


I also washed the two platens very well. And will glue and use tape or tie wraps to hold for 24-36 hrs to let it set. I will post the finished pic when its done. Thanks for all the advice.

Patricknives,
I know I know, but I just couldn't control myself or wait.:o I just ran out like a little kid and bought the cheapest one with decent reviews. I will get me a good one someday.
 
panch0 said:
Ok here's what I have so far.

1. Took off the platen, gave it a few passes with 30 grit belt.
picture.php


2. Drilled some metaltapping screws through the rear of the plate to provide a lip of sorts.
picture.php


3. Here is the pic of the ceramic platen as it will be once I jb weld the baby on.
picture.php


I also washed the two platens very well. And will glue and use tape or tie wraps to hold for 24-36 hrs to let it set. I will post the finished pic when its done. Thanks for all the advice.

Patricknives,
I know I know, but I just couldn't control myself or wait.:o I just ran out like a little kid and bought the cheapest one with decent reviews. I will get me a good one someday.
Click to expand...

Good Job ---------------:D
 
Hey thank Barkes.
I was actually thinking of putting clamps when I glued the thing on. Then I went to the link from tmickley and am going to try it with tape. I thought of the screws and was happy that tmickley had done the same thing. I knew then I was on track. Thanks for the link.
 
Warning! :o
Align the new platen, using the belt as a guide. Put a belt on the machine and scribe where the belt rides on the steel platen. You want the new ceramic to line up with the belt when you grind.

JB weld works best when you use it in a "rubbed joint" fashion.

Apply the JB weld to the metal surface, place the ceramic on top of it and move the new platen back and forth until you feel the surfaces start to pull.
Cohesion causes the two platens to "suck" against each other. This will result in a more even and far superior weld.
This technique is in common use in the wood industry. A rubbed joint needs little clamping to make a good joint.

I super glue wooden kitchen matches to the top of the metal platen, along the future edge of the new ceramic platen.
If you do this on both sides and the bottom it will stay in place. Cut them off with a utility knife after the JB weld sets up. You may come back four hours later and find that the new platen has "slipped a 1/2 inch.:( I have first hand experience at this part.

Good luck, Fred
 
I don't believe plate glass will resist thre heat as the ceramic glass will and therefore be more prone to cracking. I have found that the ceramic platen resists wear far more than hardened steel when profiling steel and thats a great job for a flat grinder !!! Frank
 
For what it's worth, I used the "slip" method Fred describes and clamped with two spring clamps centered on the ceramic. My first plate lasted four or five years, never cracked. I flipped it over when I'd worn a divot in it and reglued it. Been running like that for a year now. Still no cracks.
 
It is done. Went back and rubbed the two platens together and it did the trick it is stuck on there tight.

Thanks to all who helped. I think I learn more in a couple of days in the forum than I did in a college classroom.:D
 
I have a 2x42 also and never heard of a ceramic plate on the platen. What is the purpose for the ceramic plate over the steel platen?. Please explain, new to this type of set up and where do I get a ceramic plate?. Rey
 
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