New RC-4!

absolutindian

absolutindian

Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
519
Received my new RAT Cutlery RC-4 in the post today... This thing is the bee's knees! Shaving sharp right out of the box and the quality is unmatched in production knives. Rowen has really done a fantastic job with these things. I think RAT Cutlery has just gained another in their horde of loyal and extremely satisfied customers. :D

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This second one isnt very good, but you can see the reflective strand in the blue lanyard and on the tip of the sheath.
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I filed off the anti-corrosive coating on a portion of the spine so I could use the knife as a striker for my firesteel in picture 3.
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Great knife, I'll definitely be buying more products from RAT Cutlery... Fantastic knife you've got here guys!
 
Cool idea for the firesteel. I think that handle is very comfortable compared to many others out there. I am gonna see if the thumb serrations on top are enough to throw sparks.
 
The thumb serrations would be enough, but the coating is pretty thick, so you're not hitting the rod with the steel until the coating comes off.
 
So far I have tried striking a ferro rod with my RAT-7 and it does pretty good in spite of the coating... I guess it will come off eventually all by itself, no need to remove it!

I try to do it as well with the spine of my other knives just to prove it can be done but so far nothing beats a piece of metal saw. They throw sparks like there is no tomorrow!
Mikel
 
Great pics, thanks for showing them!

Re: the firesteel scraping, I use my awl on my Farmer for that. Gives me lots of control and usually better sparks. I can tend to 'get closer' to my work that way too.
 
SpookyPistolero said:
Great pics, thanks for showing them!

Re: the firesteel scraping, I use my awl on my Farmer for that. Gives me lots of control and usually better sparks. I can tend to 'get closer' to my work that way too.
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Do you like the awl better than the saw for throwing sparks?
 
If you mean using the teeth of the saw, then I do prefer the awl. It seems to spare the firesteel and lets it last longer, and the awl will pop off some of those chunky sparks that keep burning. The saw will definitely shoot em like crazy too, it just might not last as long.

With the magnesium bars (ain't that what you jungle guys use? ;) ) it's probably a moot point, since you only need to spark the magnesium once usually.
 
SpookyPistolero said:
If you mean using the teeth of the saw, then I do prefer the awl.
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I guess he means just the back of it. The blade spine is rounded off but the saw's spine is not. The downside I see on both methods (awl and saw) is that neither of those things lock in place... so far I stick to the little piece of hacksaw!
Mikel
 
Yeah, if it's using the back either would work, but I still prefer the awl because you're pressing down on the 'front' of the awl. It's like making a standard cut with the knife, it's not fighting it from closing. The 'edge' of the awl works well and safely.

I keep a hacksaw piece wrapped on one end with some innertube, for working with my mag bar. I still don't prefer it though because, almost inevitably, the edge or the teeth of the hacksaw piece will gnaw through my hand! No big deal, just an irritation, but just another thing that could get infected if you were out for a long time.
 
Man, I'd be into this knife if it wasn't for the choil. As it is I support them in their fight with Ontario. But on a knife that size I don't get having a choil. That edge needs to come to the handle.

My Busse Batac I just got really has dissapointed me because of this too. What is the reason for moving that edge so far from the handle?
 
I love the RC like bear stated the comfort of the scales and the overall product is awesome...Jeff/Mike & Rowen have a big hit on there hands with the RC4's + I always have a SAK of some kind on me and I use the awl portion to strike the firesteel. Excellent pictures of the RC4..
 
Fiddleback said:
...My Busse Batac I just got really has dissapointed me because of this too...
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Don't worry, I will make an effort and free you from the pain of having such an ugly knife... I would even pay for the shipping!

I guess that the choil is there to let you get a grip closer to the edge... which, in my opinion, is pretty easy solved if the edge came to the handle! Why do you need to touch the blade when you could just grip the more comfy handle?

Some say the choil is there to let you sharpen all the usable edge. But I don't think it needs to be so big to met that purpose.

I wish they edge came to the handle as well Fiddleback...
Mikel
 
Is that the standard sheath it comes with?

How does it attach to the belt?

I really want an RC-3 but the sheath worries me a bit.
 
Buffalohump said:
Is that the standard sheath it comes with?

How does it attach to the belt?

I really want an RC-3 but the sheath worries me a bit.
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You can get it in two flavours... with a molle compatible back, or with just molle clips (cheaper). Plenty of info in their webpage! I will probably get the cheapest one and then craft some sort of belt loop out of thick wide nylon webbing with some sort of rigid backing.

Mikel
 
I like Tek-Loks for my fixed blades. If I get the standard sheath with the knife, will it accept a large Tek-Lok (I have one spare)?

Thanks
 
Fiddleback said:
Man, I'd be into this knife if it wasn't for the choil. As it is I support them in their fight with Ontario. But on a knife that size I don't get having a choil. That edge needs to come to the handle.

My Busse Batac I just got really has dissapointed me because of this too. What is the reason for moving that edge so far from the handle?
Click to expand...

:D Ok, Andy if you like a thick blade and a blade that starts form the scales outward upon release of the SERE you'll like that one ,even has a spindle dimple in the scale for bow drill method !:thumbup: I can not wait for the release of the SERE !
RC-5 SERE



(Preliminary model. Not Ready for release at this time)

Designed by military SERE instructors around the RAT Cutlery RC-6 handle, this will be the first 1/4" thick knife that RAT has offered.

Preliminary Specs:

Overall Length: 10.88"
Blade Length (end of handle to tip): 5.25"
Thickness: .25"
Steel: 1095 Carbon
Finish: Textured powder coat, Earth tone color
Blade Width: 1.563"
Grind: Flat, .80" from edge to top of grind (half way up blade)
Handles: Canvas Micarta w/ bow drill divot
Sheathing: SpecOps Brand
Pommel: Sharpened point
Spine: Thumb grippers, 1.13" long



The model photo below and the listed specs are preliminary. All final specs to be determined by SERE instructors.
rc-5-model.jpg
 
I really like the looks of the SERE, but the 1/4" thickness really bothers me. If they brought it down to even 3/16" in another production model I'd be all over it.
 
the back of a sak saw throws great sparks...And saves the teethe and the sahrpness of the awl...
 
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