new sharp toy, need recommendation on boiled linseed oil

jp_over

jp_over

Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
87
Friends,

I need a recommendation on boiled linseed oil - is there a particular brand or formula you all use? Here's what came in the mail today and thus brings up my question (courtesy of Omaha Knife :thumbup:):












It's a Council Tool FSS with the optional "hand picked" and sharpening service. It is literally shaving sharp, was packed very securely, and is completely impressive! I'm looking forward to taking it out camping in the next couple of weeks.

I almost went with the Council Tool "bad boy's axe" but ended up going with the more affordable "bang for the buck" option.
 
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Personally I'm thinking of going back to plain old linseed oil. No brand in particular.
 
i bought some bio natural nonsense linseed oil at a granola hipsters shop near here, it was the only place i could find some natural linseed oil and it was pricey, still trying to find a non bio overpriced gimmick source somewhere else, no luck so far... but over here in Quebec, everything is priceyer and harder to come by anyways so you might have better luck than i do.

Nice handle, altho for a hand picked one i would have wished for a perfect grain orientation.
 
I just use the brand that they sell at the big box home improvement stores.
I mix 3 parts BLO to 1 part turpentine.
The turpentine thins the BLO slightly so that it penetrates into the wood better.
Several light coats (allow them to soak in before next application) will give good protection and a nice color to the handle.
 
Hey looks like CT did a nice job for you there and based on the rings of grain we're seeing on the side I'd say you got awfully good grain if it isn't "perfect". Just get whatever BLO you can find and go for it - let the end grain get as much as it will take.
 
Agree with MrFixIt and cityofthesouth - use what is readily available to you. But also wanted to complement you an your new toy. That's a great looking axe and the sheath looks pretty darn good to. :thumbup:
 
Gentlemen,

Thanks for the compliments and advice! I'll stop by Ace Hardware today to pick up whatever they have in stock.
 
Lots of argument on here about wood finishes but any type of oil definitely beats lacquer, shellac, urethane or varnish coatings. Remember that the purpose of an oil finish is to moderate the drying effects of climate and to reduce weathering. The whole business of making a handle look 'pretty' is secondary especially if your implement is destined to live outdoors a lot.
I had always thought I'd never used linseed oil on shovel/rake/hammer/axe handles but I see from closely inspecting labels on 'teak' oil and 'teak & tung' products that they too are primarily composed of linseed polymers.
 
Agreed on the Turpentine ... Huge difference on the absorbtion rate versus uncut oil.
As you may already know, wood is effectively a bunch of straws and thus exposed end grain will soak up liquid much more rapidly than edge grain.

Question for everyone:
Since Linseed oil doesn't help with UV or water resistance I am under the impression the purpose of the oil is to help prevent the wood from "drying" out and cracking right?
Drying oils like Linseed and Tung eventually polymerize which is desirable as it wont leave an oily film on the wood.
So my question is: if I am using the oil because it will penetrate the wood and help preserve it, wouldn't I want to use Raw Linseed oil to give it as much time to penetrate into the wood before polymerizing?
 
Pete Culler, famous boatbuilder and historian wrote in " Old ways work", 8 parts linseed oil, 1 part pine tar, 1 part turpentine. I mix the pine tar with the turpentine first before adding it to the linseed oil. It's a remarkable substance IMO
 
kksalm said:
Pete Culler, famous boatbuilder and historian wrote in " Old ways work", 8 parts linseed oil, 1 part pine tar, 1 part turpentine. I mix the pine tar with the turpentine first before adding it to the linseed oil. It's a remarkable substance IMO
Click to expand...

I'll bet it is! Would love to visit your workshop just to partake of the aroma of that particular 'brew'. Years back a high school history teacher told me she loved to walk by the carpentry shop just to inhale the 'homey-rustic' smell. She was articulate (and better yet, pretty) so I started saving cedar shavings and put a bucket of them out near the hallway door every morning. The clincher was adding boiling water to the pail. Whole place (entire wing of the school) was either 'wonderfully perfumed' or 'stunk badly' depending on whose opinion you got.
Can you still get Pine Tar?
Every now and again I find an old can of creosote at a garage sale but pine tar has so far eluded me.
 
300Six said:
I'll bet it is! Would love to visit your workshop just to partake of the aroma of that particular 'brew'. Years back a high school history teacher told me she loved to walk by the carpentry shop just to inhale the 'homey-rustic' smell. She was articulate (and better yet, pretty) so I started saving cedar shavings and put a bucket of them out near the hallway door every morning. The clincher was adding boiling water to the pail. Whole place (entire wing of the school) was either 'wonderfully perfumed' or 'stunk badly' depending on whose opinion you got.
Can you still get Pine Tar?
Every now and again I find an old can of creosote at a garage sale but pine tar has so far eluded me.
Click to expand...

I don't know this for a fact but I ran across a thread or blog stating you can still find pine tar at farm and vet supply places. They use it to treat horses hoofs? Just something I read.
 
As for staining the handle, render birch bark for its oil. stain it with the oil. You can actually stop there.

BUT

After staining I use the best recipe ever.......


1 lb pure/filtered Beeswax
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil

melt the wax in a clean metal coffee can [low heat].

add the turp and the linseed oil. Stir well.

Carefully remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify. Once it does, let it completely set up [usually overnight]. It will turn into what looks like a thick pudding in consistency.

It is a complete waterproofing agent for almost EVERYTHING. Works on cloth, leather, wood and metal.

for cloth, leather and wood....rub a liberal amount of the creme into the item using a cloth or paintbrush and then hit it with a heat gun on LOW. Once it absorbs, you are pretty much done.

For wood, you can do it twice [that's the most I've ever done on wood]. It's awesome stuff. really.

Coincidentally, this paste will last [and work] for 20 years in that can if you keep the lid on it.

EDIT: I want to remind everyone on the boiled linseed oil - it has the spontaneous combustion issue and if you use a rag to apply it, dispose of it [the rag] properly

I've never used rags to apply this, I've always used a paintbrush or latex gloves [well....old Nitrile gloves back in the day] - Don't want anyone's place burning down.
 
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kksalm said:
Pete Culler, famous boatbuilder and historian wrote in " Old ways work", 8 parts linseed oil, 1 part pine tar, 1 part turpentine. I mix the pine tar with the turpentine first before adding it to the linseed oil. It's a remarkable substance IMO
Click to expand...

I am going to give this a try.
 
300Six said:
I'll bet it is! Would love to visit your workshop just to partake of the aroma of that particular 'brew'. Years back a high school history teacher told me she loved to walk by the carpentry shop just to inhale the 'homey-rustic' smell. She was articulate (and better yet, pretty) so I started saving cedar shavings and put a bucket of them out near the hallway door every morning. The clincher was adding boiling water to the pail. Whole place (entire wing of the school) was either 'wonderfully perfumed' or 'stunk badly' depending on whose opinion you got.
Can you still get Pine Tar?
Every now and again I find an old can of creosote at a garage sale but pine tar has so far eluded me.
Click to expand...

here ya go bud

http://www.bicwarehouse.com/Farnam-Central-Life-77456-Dressing-QT/dp/B000HHHDNS
 
kksalm said:
Pete Culler, famous boatbuilder and historian wrote in " Old ways work", 8 parts linseed oil, 1 part pine tar, 1 part turpentine. I mix the pine tar with the turpentine first before adding it to the linseed oil. It's a remarkable substance IMO
Click to expand...

What is the purpose of the pine tar?
When you say remarkable substance ... could you elaborate?
 
Belgrath04 said:
What is the purpose of the pine tar?

When you say remarkable substance ... could you elaborate?
Click to expand...

Pine tar = pine sap = nature's crazy glue....it also happens to be dense forest gasoline when introduced to a spark.....

It's a binding agent, as well as a waterproofing agent and also has antiseptic qualities when used as a topical application.
 
Well, I mixed up some oil roughly following KKsalm's formula. Time will tell I guess, but my initial impression is all positive. The pine tar in the mix for sure brings something to the table. I am wondering why I have not played with it before. It makes the handle darker right off the bat, but its not really a stain. Thinned with the turpentine it soaks in well and it seems like it will dry resonably fast.

I found pine tar next to the horse shoes at D&B.
 
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