new sharp toy, need recommendation on boiled linseed oil

[cityofthesouth]

As for staining the handle, render birch bark for its oil. stain it with the oil. You can actually stop there.

BUT

After staining I use the best recipe ever.......


1 lb pure/filtered Beeswax
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil

melt the wax in a clean metal coffee can [low heat].

add the turp and the linseed oil. Stir well.

Carefully remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify. Once it does, let it completely set up [usually overnight]. It will turn into what looks like a thick pudding in consistency.

It is a complete waterproofing agent for almost EVERYTHING. Works on cloth, leather, wood and metal.

for cloth, leather and wood....rub a liberal amount of the creme into the item using a cloth or paintbrush and then hit it with a heat gun on LOW. Once it absorbs, you are pretty much done.

For wood, you can do it twice [that's the most I've ever done on wood]. It's awesome stuff. really.

Coincidentally, this paste will last [and work] for 20 years in that can if you keep the lid on it.

I keep telling myself I'm gonna make this stuff some day. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[Shmellor@gmail.com]

As for staining the handle, render birch bark for its oil. stain it with the oil. You can actually stop there.

BUT

After staining I use the best recipe ever.......


1 lb pure/filtered Beeswax
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil

melt the wax in a clean metal coffee can [low heat].

add the turp and the linseed oil. Stir well.

Carefully remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify. Once it does, let it completely set up [usually overnight]. It will turn into what looks like a thick pudding in consistency.

It is a complete waterproofing agent for almost EVERYTHING. Works on cloth, leather, wood and metal.

for cloth, leather and wood....rub a liberal amount of the creme into the item using a cloth or paintbrush and then hit it with a heat gun on LOW. Once it absorbs, you are pretty much done.

For wood, you can do it twice [that's the most I've ever done on wood]. It's awesome stuff. really.

Coincidentally, this paste will last [and work] for 20 years in that can if you keep the lid on it.

I haven't tried it yet but I just ordered some d-Limonene to use instead of turpentine and I'm going to use what I believe is raw linseed oil. Excited to see how it turns out.

 

[upnorth]

Sweet axe. I just grabbed some BLO from Walmart. It got darker over the years but still seems fine. The 1 Liter or quart will likely last me decades if I ever stop knocking it over. Put on a thick first coat and let it suck it up for 24 hours or so, wipe it down and give more drying time. Then put additional thin coats on with a day or several drying time between. I rushed my Wetterlings Scandinavian and went too thick, too soon. I now have a moderately sticky handle\haft. I might deal with it but it is moderately sticky, so I'll see what time and a bit more use will do to it. Thin coats, give some good drying time between them. Do the top and bottom also.

 

[Remzy]

wouldnt pine tar make the handle sticky? i mean, in a bad way?

 

[Dadgummit]

As for staining the handle, render birch bark for its oil. stain it with the oil. You can actually stop there.

BUT

After staining I use the best recipe ever.......


1 lb pure/filtered Beeswax
8 oz turpentine
8 oz boiled linseed oil

melt the wax in a clean metal coffee can [low heat].

add the turp and the linseed oil. Stir well.

Carefully remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify. Once it does, let it completely set up [usually overnight]. It will turn into what looks like a thick pudding in consistency.

It is a complete waterproofing agent for almost EVERYTHING. Works on cloth, leather, wood and metal.

for cloth, leather and wood....rub a liberal amount of the creme into the item using a cloth or paintbrush and then hit it with a heat gun on LOW. Once it absorbs, you are pretty much done.

For wood, you can do it twice [that's the most I've ever done on wood]. It's awesome stuff. really.

Coincidentally, this paste will last [and work] for 20 years in that can if you keep the lid on it.

My Grandfather had something similar to this in his shead. He put it on all of his garden tools, metal and wood. It was in an old coffee can too. I am going to have to give this a try, thank you for the recipe!

 

[garry3]

wouldnt pine tar make the handle sticky? i mean, in a bad way?

With the stuff I mixed up it feels light bare wood. There is all kinds of ways to use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SD62udn_Lk

 

[rjdankert]

With the stuff I mixed up it feels light bare wood. There is all kinds of ways to use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SD62udn_Lk

It seems counter intuitive that a baseball player uses pine tar to make a bat handle sticky and yet people use it to preserve wood that you would not want to be sticky. Did some internet searching yesterday to see how this is resolved. Didn't find a definitive answer, but how can you argue with logcabinlooms and a host of others who use pine tar? I don't know this, but I think that pine tar on a bat handle is used in it's liquid state.

I am certainly going to give pine tar a try. What mixture did you use? thanks

 

[jp_over]

With the stuff I mixed up it feels light bare wood. There is all kinds of ways to use it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SD62udn_Lk

Thanks for posting this; very informative and appreciated.

 

[druid189]

I haven't tried it yet but I just ordered some d-Limonene to use instead of turpentine and I'm going to use what I believe is raw linseed oil. Excited to see how it turns out.

I keep telling myself I'm gonna make this stuff some day. Thanks for the reminder!

My Grandfather had something similar to this in his shead. He put it on all of his garden tools, metal and wood. It was in an old coffee can too. I am going to have to give this a try, thank you for the recipe!

I edited my original post to include this:

EDIT: I want to remind everyone on the boiled linseed oil - it has the spontaneous combustion issue and if you use a rag to apply it, dispose of it [the rag] properly



I've never used rags to apply this, I've always used a paintbrush or latex gloves [well....old Nitrile gloves back in the day] - Don't want anyone's place burning down.

 

[Dadgummit]

I edited my original post to include this:

EDIT: I want to remind everyone on the boiled linseed oil - it has the spontaneous combustion issue and if you use a rag to apply it, dispose of it [the rag] properly



I've never used rags to apply this, I've always used a paintbrush or latex gloves [well....old Nitrile gloves back in the day] - Don't want anyone's place burning down.

This is good to know, does this apply to the beeswax mixture or just straight BLO?

 

[jp_over]

Good to know; thanks!

 

[Dallas83]

Any mixture. I use rags to apply a thin coating. Even if I have to pause for 10 minutes, the rag is always put in a jar, lid closed. If work is done completely I burn the rag. I'm a bit paranoid about it since I had an incident where the rag got really hot and started to smoke lightly.

I remember my grandfather using it undiluted on metal. It worked as a primer for the actual paint.

 

[garry3]

It seems counter intuitive that a baseball player uses pine tar to make a bat handle sticky and yet people use it to preserve wood that you would not want to be sticky. Did some internet searching yesterday to see how this is resolved. Didn't find a definitive answer, but how can you argue with logcabinlooms and a host of others who use pine tar? I don't know this, but I think that pine tar on a bat handle is used in it's liquid state.

I am certainly going to give pine tar a try. What mixture did you use? thanks

I used the recipe from post number ten. It feels kind of odd after handling BLO and waxed handles. I will probably be going over it with a wax,BLO paste. That handle will probably never rot. Pine tar is nothing like sap.
I will get around to using that mixture on my picks and shovels, they get no wax.

 

[tinkerer]

I'm sold on Tung Oil. Prefer Formby's. Available in gloss and satin.

Brush on , polish off excess, Do this about 8 times and wood becomes plastic like and golden. I finish with paste wax for non slip surface.

Easy, peasy.

Larry
Tinkerer

 

[druid189]

This is good to know, does this apply to the beeswax mixture or just straight BLO?

It applies to BLO no matter what's mixed with it....the problem is the oil and how it heats while evaporating [aka oxidization]....not the other ingredients:

[video=youtube;9yq6VW-c2Ts]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yq6VW-c2Ts[/video]

This doesn't just apply to "just boiled Linseed Oil." Apparently there are other oils that contain linseed oil...like one in this video called "Teak oil":

[video=youtube;_EreqG0_PLQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EreqG0_PLQ[/video]

 

[Remzy]

do you know if this happens with raw unboiled linseed oil??

 

[druid189]

do you know if this happens with raw unboiled linseed oil??

No I do not....but as I understand it, it's the oil itself. I don't know if boiled/raw makes any difference.

All I know is as it begins to evaporate, it generates heat. On average and of all the videos I've been able to find, it takes around 3 hours to self ignite.

If you have access to raw linseed oil, perhaps you could do a video of a test on raw/unboiled oil? That would be cool and informative for everyone involved.

 

[rjdankert]

I used the recipe from post number ten. It feels kind of odd after handling BLO and waxed handles. I will probably be going over it with a wax,BLO paste. That handle will probably never rot. Pine tar is nothing like sap.
I will get around to using that mixture on my picks and shovels, they get no wax.

Thanks!

 

[Dadgummit]

Thank you very much for posting the warning. I would have used a rag and I never would have thought of the used rags catching on fire. You may have saved me a lot of trouble!

 

[garry3]

Thank you very much for posting the warning. I would have used a rag and I never would have thought of the used rags catching on fire. You may have saved me a lot of trouble!

Its not just linseed oil. The oil based stains also. Probably because they contain linseed oil.
With the construction back ground I come from I don't even think about it, all my oil stained rags, sponge brushes ect, get disposed of properly. I do the same with varnishes ect.

Its just a good habit to get into. The fire danger is not exaggerated, its very real. I have seen it happen more than once.


Thanks Druid, for bringing this up.:thumbup: