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- Jul 8, 2014
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Benchmade Griptillian. My favorite <$100 knife. Still in my EDC rotation. I live in Louisiana also and have never had a problem with it rusting.
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new to knives
- Thread starter NoobKnife
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- Aug 7, 2014
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- 36
If corrosion resistance is a major factor to you, I would definitely check out anything in the Spyderco Salt series. I've had a few Aus 8(and 8cr13mov) blades rust on me from sweat.
First post, by the way!
First post, by the way!
My choices:
Delica 4 FFG. VG-10 is good about rust, and the delicas design is pretty easy to clean. Great little work knife from what I can tell.
Spyderco Salt anything. Rust proof, easy to sharpen, gets super sharp. Only downside is the lack of edge retention. But if you got a serrated model, those hold their edge forever because they are hardened further during the grinding process
Cold steel recon 1 or mini recon 1 (I used to have one. Very tough knives and I love the AUS-8. Not the longest edge retention, but it can get screaming sharp and do it easily. Wont rust too easily especially with the coating)
Maybe a manix lightweight translucent, but Ive heard the edge retention sucks on those things
Or a coated Rat 1 or Rat 2. Nothing bad to say about those at the price they go for.
Delica 4 FFG. VG-10 is good about rust, and the delicas design is pretty easy to clean. Great little work knife from what I can tell.
Spyderco Salt anything. Rust proof, easy to sharpen, gets super sharp. Only downside is the lack of edge retention. But if you got a serrated model, those hold their edge forever because they are hardened further during the grinding process
Cold steel recon 1 or mini recon 1 (I used to have one. Very tough knives and I love the AUS-8. Not the longest edge retention, but it can get screaming sharp and do it easily. Wont rust too easily especially with the coating)
Maybe a manix lightweight translucent, but Ive heard the edge retention sucks on those things
Or a coated Rat 1 or Rat 2. Nothing bad to say about those at the price they go for.
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
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- 647
A knife from spyderco's salt line. H1 will not rust. Can be had for under $100 and worth the time to look at.
My recommendation would be to spend somewhere in the $40 or less range for a knife and spend another $35 on the basic 3 stone Lansky sharpening system. Use the Lansky as an instructional aid, sort of like training wheels on a bike. While learning to sharpen free hand may be the right ultimate goal and while other systems like the Spyderco system might be more convenient for daily touch ups, a guided rod system like the Lansky eliminates most of the variables and will allow you to focus on the process of raising a burr and then honing the edge. IMO, you'll get to competency doing free hand sharpening faster this way. Practice on junk knives from the kitchen drawer.
I like the DMT pocket hones for day to day use. But, I'm able to use them freehand only because I finally cracked the code on sharpening with the help of the Lansky.
Thank you everyone for your input and suggestions. I think I have decided to go with the Recon 1. As far as sharpening supplies I was thinking of getting this in this link. Would this be everything that I would need to sharpen my knife? Of course I would try it on my kitchen and my couple of $10 way before I ever try it on my recon 1.
I do have a couple questions though. I am thinking if I rinse it off at lunch and when I get off work it should be okay I hope. I have I read that you can use olive oil to help combat rust? So maybe I should only rince it after work and then apply some olive oil on it?
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/U...serID=98993213&SessionID=udSQolpKQHXiympid2Rt
I do have a couple questions though. I am thinking if I rinse it off at lunch and when I get off work it should be okay I hope. I have I read that you can use olive oil to help combat rust? So maybe I should only rince it after work and then apply some olive oil on it?
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/U...serID=98993213&SessionID=udSQolpKQHXiympid2Rt
I would recommend the Spyderco Tenacious for a good starting work knife for about $40-45. You can get the DLC/(black) coating on it, to help prevent rust. Wiping it off with a dry cloth every day should be enough to prevent rust. It's easy to clean/disassemble, and the 8cr13mov steel is good and easy to sharpen. People will argue that, but it has been proven to be strong and have good edge retention, but of course I know there many other more expensive steels that have better corrosion resistance and edge retention, but it should suffice. . The Spyderco hole makes it easy to open as well. I would recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker as a good knife sharpening system to begin at free-hand sharpening. (Just over a $100 bucks for the sharpener and knife on bladehq.com) Good luck on your purchase!
Get a spyderco sharpmaker, and spend the rest on a few good budget beaters. Kershaw, spyderco,buck, and ontario all make some good knives that can be had under $50 easily and will do everything you need them to, and you won't lose too much sleep if they break or rust.
Well, Not sure if I will ever get another Cold Steel knife again.. I have had my recon now for what? 2 weeks? It now rattles and has some light slack in it. I figured it would get a little slack, but it shouldn't rattle. Also when it is closed it wobbles like crazy, But I don't remember if it did that when it was new or not. I am worried about that rattling noise though for sure. I tried to just tighten the screw a little, but all it did was make it where I couldn't open the knife. lol Can't tell what is rattling, But its up by the lock where the blade turns at.
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2013
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- 82
I think the rattle is the pin that the blade rests on when it's closed (mine had the same "problem" and also some slight give/up and down play after about 2 weeks also.) Nothing major though. At least not enough to prompt me to send it back.
I've had a CS Recon 1 for quite some time now. It was my every day carry for awhile. Mine still has no blade play and nothing wobbles or moves on it. Perhaps you should contact CS and ask them about it or fixing it? It may be slightly defective I don't know.
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- Feb 10, 2006
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- 1,176
Welcome to BF! There are lots of great suggestions here. It could be best to just get one of the quality $20-$30 value knives recommended above and test-drive it for a few weeks, instead of spending $60-$80+ on a knife that doesn't end up working out for your needs. That way, you can run the $20 beater into the ground and really learn about what you want in your next knife. However, the $20-$30 beaters recommended above are all excellent knives in their own right, and could end up being just fine for your daily needs.
I second/third/fourth the recommendation for any Spyderco Salt, perhaps either the Dragonfly Salt or the Salt 1. I live and work in Central America and frequently carry IWB in order to be discreet. Needless to say, the knives get soaked through with sweat, sea water, swampy river water, etc. Most of my knives get rusty around the pivot or inside the liners. My fixed blades rust inside their sheaths in a few hours. My sweat is not particularly corrosive; I carried knives and guns IWB for years in Central Oregon and almost never had rust issues (except the mag release on the P3AT). But here, I even coat my machete with coconut oil or olive oil and that helps a lot. The locals just let machetes rust and use them hard, which keeps the rust off the edge.
No amount of open-pillar construction, rinsing, oiling, etc has much of a chance here. I have taken to carrying my Dragonfly Salt and it has been a revelvation. It (or the Salt I, or any of the Salt series that strikes your fancy) hits all of your criteria:
--Rust-resistance? Like no other steel I've used. All the fasteners, lock hardware, and clip are made from alloys that can't rust either.
--Easy to sharpen? H1 just wants to be sharp. I sharpen on coffee cups, the Sharpmaker, strop on coffee sacks, etc. It is very forgiving to sharpen.
--Gets really sharp? Plain edge (non-serrated) H1 does not have the best edge retention (related to the fact that it is so easy to sharpen), but it gets shockingly sharp and is easy to get there.
--Affordable? The folding knives in the Salt lineup are all sub-$100, leaving money left over for a Spyderco Sharpmaker sharpening system. With patient shopping on eBay and the Exchange forums here one could eventually find both a used Dragonfly Salt and a Sharpmaker for around $100 total.
As a bonus, I really like the bright yellow handles that are available on the Salt line
Best of luck with your search and let us know how your choice works out after a few weeks of carry.
I second/third/fourth the recommendation for any Spyderco Salt, perhaps either the Dragonfly Salt or the Salt 1. I live and work in Central America and frequently carry IWB in order to be discreet. Needless to say, the knives get soaked through with sweat, sea water, swampy river water, etc. Most of my knives get rusty around the pivot or inside the liners. My fixed blades rust inside their sheaths in a few hours. My sweat is not particularly corrosive; I carried knives and guns IWB for years in Central Oregon and almost never had rust issues (except the mag release on the P3AT). But here, I even coat my machete with coconut oil or olive oil and that helps a lot. The locals just let machetes rust and use them hard, which keeps the rust off the edge.
No amount of open-pillar construction, rinsing, oiling, etc has much of a chance here. I have taken to carrying my Dragonfly Salt and it has been a revelvation. It (or the Salt I, or any of the Salt series that strikes your fancy) hits all of your criteria:
--Rust-resistance? Like no other steel I've used. All the fasteners, lock hardware, and clip are made from alloys that can't rust either.
--Easy to sharpen? H1 just wants to be sharp. I sharpen on coffee cups, the Sharpmaker, strop on coffee sacks, etc. It is very forgiving to sharpen.
--Gets really sharp? Plain edge (non-serrated) H1 does not have the best edge retention (related to the fact that it is so easy to sharpen), but it gets shockingly sharp and is easy to get there.
--Affordable? The folding knives in the Salt lineup are all sub-$100, leaving money left over for a Spyderco Sharpmaker sharpening system. With patient shopping on eBay and the Exchange forums here one could eventually find both a used Dragonfly Salt and a Sharpmaker for around $100 total.
As a bonus, I really like the bright yellow handles that are available on the Salt line
Best of luck with your search and let us know how your choice works out after a few weeks of carry.
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Mine has just a little bit of play when open, Very little, But I know when it is close it will wobble from one side of the handle to the other. Can't remember if it did that when it was new or not. The little bit of play it has when open is side to side. Not open closed play. That slight rattle noise it there when opened or closed.
Does anyone else recon when closed wobble from one side of the handle to the other?
Does anyone else recon when closed wobble from one side of the handle to the other?
This is a awsome knife. I got it for 15 bucks on sale its well made for sure.This is a Kershaw Tremor, the knife will only set you back $20. But don't let the low price scare you off, it's a very capable knife.
it opens with a flipper ( no studs ) and it has a spring assist.
The good thing is , it also carries Kershaw's excellent warranty.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 362
Ok so the problem with the Spyderco Salt series is that all but the Dragonfly 2 are pinned, which means you cannot take them apart or adjust them. Being new to knives, this may not be an issue for you, but I HATE it. If you like a small blade then the Dragonfly is good. (Spyderco.. Please read this and change the Pacific Salt and Salt 1 so I can take them apart to clean out fish scales and guts)
Having said this, there are plenty of blades that won't rust on you after normal sweaty use.
Here are some:
-Ontario Rat 1 or 2 (Full flat grind, Best Value in the World IMO and the opinion of many others. AUS8a Steel and amazing for $30)
-Cold Steel: Recon 1, Voyager, American Lawman, AK47 (Same as above but a little more in price)
-Spyderco Delica, Endura (Any Spyderco WITHOUT 8Cr13MoV Steel)
-Benchmade Mini Griptilian (154CM is good stainless)
-Sog Flash 1-2 (Assisted opening knife, AUS8, VERY Light)
-Kabar Dozier is GREAT for your application because it is under $20, You can get one with fully coated blade and hardware (screws/pins) which will resist rust, AND there are no steel liners to rust on you. AND you can take it apart by removing one screw to clean it. As a matter of fact, my Ka-Bar Dozier (shown Below) is my go to fishing knife when I head to the beach. It sharpens easily, and I love that it is so user friendly. Be advised though that this knife will not take a thrashing as well as some of the knives listed above. But it has A LOT going for it at $20.
I also included a pic of the best beginners sharpener ever $30. Its made by Worksharp and is their field sharpener. Its has 20 degree guides that make it fool proof. This combined with the easy to sharpen Dozier or Ontario Rat will be perfect for you. DON'T buy some blade with a recurved edge which is more difficult to run along the sharpener. And whatever you do, DON'T Buy uncoated 8Cr13Mov (Its decent budget steel but uncoated WILL rust on you) The Drop point/spear point design will be very easy to follow along the sharpener.
Having said this, there are plenty of blades that won't rust on you after normal sweaty use.
Here are some:
-Ontario Rat 1 or 2 (Full flat grind, Best Value in the World IMO and the opinion of many others. AUS8a Steel and amazing for $30)
-Cold Steel: Recon 1, Voyager, American Lawman, AK47 (Same as above but a little more in price)
-Spyderco Delica, Endura (Any Spyderco WITHOUT 8Cr13MoV Steel)
-Benchmade Mini Griptilian (154CM is good stainless)
-Sog Flash 1-2 (Assisted opening knife, AUS8, VERY Light)
-Kabar Dozier is GREAT for your application because it is under $20, You can get one with fully coated blade and hardware (screws/pins) which will resist rust, AND there are no steel liners to rust on you. AND you can take it apart by removing one screw to clean it. As a matter of fact, my Ka-Bar Dozier (shown Below) is my go to fishing knife when I head to the beach. It sharpens easily, and I love that it is so user friendly. Be advised though that this knife will not take a thrashing as well as some of the knives listed above. But it has A LOT going for it at $20.
I also included a pic of the best beginners sharpener ever $30. Its made by Worksharp and is their field sharpener. Its has 20 degree guides that make it fool proof. This combined with the easy to sharpen Dozier or Ontario Rat will be perfect for you. DON'T buy some blade with a recurved edge which is more difficult to run along the sharpener. And whatever you do, DON'T Buy uncoated 8Cr13Mov (Its decent budget steel but uncoated WILL rust on you) The Drop point/spear point design will be very easy to follow along the sharpener.
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- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 362
The Rattle is the pin as mentioned above. I actually had the same issue and took it apart and applied some gunky Penn Reel grease to the pinhole and the pin and it went away. I would not recommend doing this unless you are confident in your ablilty to re-assemble. It is very easy IMO but still not for everyone.
The wobble in the blade can be fixed with a torx head screw driver. Just tighten the screw a bit until the wobble goes away but the blade is still loose enough to deploy.
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- Mar 13, 2005
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My fav Cold Steel is the Holdout series of folders, almost elegant in shape but the G-10 is ferociously grippy with a great pocket clip. Triad lock is a bit stiff at first but gets better with use.
That said, unless you absolutely need the Triad lock, many better knives in the same budget range.
Don't be afraid of 8Cr13Mov, just avoid bead-blasted or cheaply coated blades (a la Kershaw, Cold Steel). A satin finished blade will rarely rust on you. And the blade coating is generally temporary anyway
That said, unless you absolutely need the Triad lock, many better knives in the same budget range.
Don't be afraid of 8Cr13Mov, just avoid bead-blasted or cheaply coated blades (a la Kershaw, Cold Steel). A satin finished blade will rarely rust on you. And the blade coating is generally temporary anyway