New Warwood tools " perfect axe " ?

crbnSteeladdict said:
Overhype and underdeliver. Kelly Perfect legacy deserves better.

Unfinished bevels and polished ridge line would create nicer look.
For now, I am only left with hope that their heat treatment will be good,
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Not exactly a challenge to brighten it up yourself if you've half a mind to. Not every axe on the market is for every axe nerd, and that's okay. I personally don't see anything glaringly wrong with the axe pictured, just performance tweaks that I'd do to it to get it where I'd want it. I'd definitely be interested in knowing the specified hardness, though.
 
It looks pretty good to me.
Think about the last axes to be called Kelly perfect, the ones made by Barco industries.
This sure looks a lot better than that.
 
tommytman said:
It seems a lot of $ for a boys axe
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I think it’s worth it to bring back the old quality. Everyone wants premium tools at flea market prices.

I love a good deal as much as the next guy, but it costs a lot of money to get operations like that up and running, and I want them to be successful.
 
Square_peg said:
I just get the sense that their designs are created by their marketing department and not by anyone who ever used a tool.
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Which ones, exactly, and why? I fail to see anything in any of their designs that are, say, on the level of marketing spin you see from companies like, say, Fiskars these days.
 
tommytman said:
I hope they also do well. Still a lot of$ for a boys axe .
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But let’s be honest- 200 bucks for possibly all of the axe most people would need.

Counter to that, most people would say anything over 70 bucks is too much for a Council 3.5 lbs jersey. They’d drive to the hardware store, buy a blunt Mexican Collins for 30 bucks, split wood until the handle breaks and move on.
 
EngrSorenson said:
But let’s be honest- 200 bucks for possibly all of the axe most people would need.

Counter to that, most people would say anything over 70 bucks is too much for a Council 3.5 lbs jersey. They’d drive to the hardware store, buy a blunt Mexican Collins for 30 bucks, split wood until the handle breaks and move on.
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lol!
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Which ones, exactly, and why? I fail to see anything in any of their designs that are, say, on the level of marketing spin you see from companies like, say, Fiskars these days.
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Thanks. I'm looking at the image of the 'Perfect' on their website. The bevels are massively exaggerated, running up onto the eye nearly to the heel and toe.

I'd take one of the new Council utility axes over that in a heart beat.
WarwoodPerfectleftside.png
 
I mean, the Ideal Ridge axes' phantom bevels ran up into the eye but at least they gave you a generous inch of bit before you were grinding into the bevels.
84b81e_af6302c748a84af4bcf192f249065a59~mv2.png
 
I will say that the poll looks a bit skimpy. I don't think there'd technically be any issue if you sharpened back into the hollows other than it being less than ideal aesthetically. There'd technically be a loss of durability in the heel/toe, but to compensate you could always round them off Michigan-style instead of leaving them pointed. I do think that a true-tapered ridge is a superior approach since there's never a thinner space behind the edge, but it's not how the Perfects were done in any case.
 
The way I see it we're all just being a bit picky because we know how axes used to be made, but they're just not going to make axes like they used to anymore.
Sure in this case we're talking about a premium axe for the enthusiast that is kind of intended as a reproduction, but I still think it looks better than most axes on the market today and they seem to have gotten a lot right.

As for the particular criticism my assumption is that they designed this to capture what many people think of when it comes to the Kelly perfect axes, while understanding that it's a boys axe and the liberties taken for aesthetic purposes probably aren't going to effect it much in the context of today's axe needs.

Just think that it could have been as bad as a Collins commander.
 
EngrSorenson said:
how many axes have been sharpened back a half inch, much less a full inch?
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I see an awful lot of axes that have lost 1/2" - 1" off the toe. Some wood splitters like to bury their axes in the dirt and the rocks. I just checked ebay and found at least 17 axes missing 1/2" or more off the toe on the first page of my search.
 
Square_peg said:
I see an awful lot of axes that have lost 1/2" - 1" off the toe. Some wood splitters like to bury their axes in the dirt and the rocks. I just checked ebay and found at least 17 axes missing 1/2" or more off the toe on the first page of my search.
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I’m sure I can find absurd examples of neglect from clowns that don’t know any better, but I’ve never personally sharpened and axe down that far, and from the sound of it, you haven’t either.

I get it- I love that Council hardens their bits an inch or more back, for instance- but in my practical applications, I’ll never use one up.
 
But why make the bevels that long? Not to improve the axe. It was done to accent the bevels for marketing purposes. That's why I say it was designed by the marketing department.
 
Square_peg said:
But why make the bevels that long? Not to improve the axe. It was done to accent the bevels for marketing purposes. That's why I say it was designed by the marketing department.
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I mean, it WILL technically better reduce friction in the cut. The Council Pack Axe has the bevel coming right down to behind the bit and that was designed by the same guy responsible for the Flying Fox, the new 5lb splitters, the improved Hudson Bays, and so on in their lineup -- that man knows his way around an axe thoroughly and has done axe work for many years professionally. Longevity of the original bit geometry was simply not a factor that ranked high on the priority scale in this case. Whether that was deliberate or by happenstance is mystery to us, but if deliberate there are all manner of reasons why it may have been done other than marketing.
 
Square_peg said:
Thanks. I'm looking at the image of the 'Perfect' on their website. The bevels are massively exaggerated, running up onto the eye nearly to the heel and toe.

I'd take one of the new Council utility axes over that in a heart beat.
WarwoodPerfectleftside.png
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Looks like the edge bevel is raised? Why, how? It's a forged axe?

Good example of why I just stick to vintage steel. Fantasy looking axes and improved designs.....
 
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