Newbie looking to build first knife

K

Karcus

Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
6
Hi guys, I am 17 and during the process of looking for my first quality knife (instead of mass produced $10 knives), I decided to just try and have a go at making my own.

Reasons why:
-I don't really need to buy an expensive knife for cleaning 4-5 hogs/deer a year
-It'd be fun
-I'm rather handy with tools and DIY

Now to the knife itself i'd like to build...
What steel would you recommend for a first time knife maker? I plan on using it for caping small - medium sized game, if that matters in choosing steel.

From what I understand, the process is rather simple (just listing the jist of it, I know the specific steps are more detailed)

1. Buy steel/handle material
2. Cut steel to shape
3. Bevel blade edge/drill handle material holes and sand as fine as I want
4. Heat treat by putting blade in fire and check blade periodically until the blade is red hot and no longer is attracted to a magnet
5. Immediately cool blade edge first by dipping it vertically into coolant (what liquid should I use for quenching?) to avoid warping and pull it out when it is finally cool.
6. Heat treat in oven (after completely washing coolant off blade), What temp/how long?
7. Put on handle
8. Sharpen
9. Cut stuff

How/when in the process could I engrave my name in the blade?

If your wondering, I plan on making a sheath out of buckskin I plan on tanning during my christmas vacation.

I've only been researching for a week, so let me know if I have overlooked anything. Thanks for taking time to help out a newb.
 
You are on the right track in terms of steps. You might start in the Newbies link at the top of this forum, and by filling out your profile. The newbies link will answer most of your questions. Knowing where you live helps the forum members answer your questions.

First of all, what process are you going to use? Forged, or stock removal?

If you want to engrave, or stamp, your name you need to do it when its still annealed.

I'm not sure what tanning process you are going to use, but I have corrosion problems from home tanned leather. I buy leather that is specified safe for sheaths and holsters by my local leather supplier. Some of the salts used in tanning can induce rust in your blade.
 
+1 on reading the newbie section, thats how I made my first knife last week and second one this week. At each phase ask questions here before you proceed. Try to be detailed with your questions, steel type, tools being used, etc..... Good luck and have fun.
-frank
 
bjalongi said:
You are on the right track in terms of steps. You might start in the Newbies link at the top of this forum, and by filling out your profile. The newbies link will answer most of your questions. Knowing where you live helps the forum members answer your questions.

First of all, what process are you going to use? Forged, or stock removal?

If you want to engrave, or stamp, your name you need to do it when its still annealed.

I'm not sure what tanning process you are going to use, but I have corrosion problems from home tanned leather. I buy leather that is specified safe for sheaths and holsters by my local leather supplier. Some of the salts used in tanning can induce rust in your blade.
Click to expand...

From what I understand, I will be using stock removal because I plan on buying a rectangular peice of steel and cutting my knife template from it with a drill and hacksaw, not heating and shaping the steel with a hammer and anvil (forging)

What is a good steel thickness for the type of knife I have mentioned above?

For the engraving while it is still annealed, I assume that means engraving while the blade is hot from the heat treatment? Is that correct? Would I just carefully chisel some initials or a trademark symbol into it?

I guess I should do more research on my tanning method (brain tan) to find out if it will effect my blade.

Again, thanks for helpin me out.
 
I used ATS34 for my first blades, I was able file and cut out with a dremel. It is a nice looking steel when polished holds a good edge and is not very expesive. 1095 is also not to expensive and from what I've heard real good for fixed blades.

I live in Weslaco, TX by the way, how about yourself.
-frank
 
You are on the right track for sure, I'm not an expert on engraving but all I can say, I did some file work and some fuller work both before and after HT. All possible, you don't need to work on steel while hot, you'd be surprised how a hard steel chisel can eat an annealed steel. I was surprised when I made a fuller to a blade recently with just a piece of hardened piece of steel.

If you'll engrave a haredened blade you need diamond tools. I would choose to do engraving etc. after HT because the sharp corners of engraving scratches would invite micro cracks at the HT due to the stresses at these points...

something like 0.2" thickness or a bit less is ok for this job. At the beginning the thicker the stock the better as if you mess up at a stage you can get away just by thinning the workpiece...
 
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DO NOT go to HD or Lowes expecting to find knife steel except in the form of a high dollar file. Admiral steel or any of the suppliers listed in the "newbies" sticky will have good steel.
 
No, First you're going to want to narrow it down as to how you want to heat treat it. are you going to be doing this yourself, or getting someone else to do it for you?

if your doing it yourself O1 or 1080 is probibly the way to go, but wait for somone to echo that before proceeding.

If your sending it out, you open a wide range of options. but first its best to design the knife, or at least tell us what you were thinking size wise. thickness is also depended on that.

Best places to buy steel will be online.

http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=87

would be an option.
 
Just go to my website and you can get most of thing there to creat your knife and more. I know it will help you on your way. Good luck and welcome to Bladeforms. :)

Terry
 
One thing you'll find like most of us that decided to learn to make knives because we didn't like $10 mass produced knives is that you're going to spend a lot more than $10 learning to make knives.





But it's a heck of a lot more satisfying than opening a package ;)
 
Jantz Supply is a good source for all supplies you would need. You would want to mark your blade before heat treat, I started out using a set of letter stamps from Harbor Freight, cheap and they work. For a skinner, 3/32" or 1/8" thick steel is fine, if you do your own heat treat 1084, 1095 or O-1 would be good steels, 1084 probably better for beginners. You can use vegatable oil, and even used auto transmission fluid for your quentchent, heated to 120- 150 degrees, Hope this helps, and good luck on your first knife.
 
Will Leavitt said:
One thing you'll find like most of us that decided to learn to make knives because we didn't like $10 mass produced knives is that you're going to spend a lot more than $10 learning to make knives.




But it's a heck of a lot more satisfying than opening a package ;)
Click to expand...

Thats the truth!:thumbup:
 
Karcus,

I am very impressed that a young man such as yourself is going about this the right way: researching first, so you can do it correctly. Additionally, you must be a bright young man, as your command of the English language is better than many people twice your age.

I'll make you a deal. If you agree to read all the stickies regarding basic knife construction, and get your self a copy of the $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard and read it cover to cover, taking notes along the way, I will assist you in your first knife. I live in the Seattle area, but I have some extra steel, brass, sand paper, files and things of that nature that I could send you. Recently, a few forum members were kind enough to help me out, so I would like to do the same for you.

The kicker is that you have to do your part first.
 
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bjalongi said:
Karcus,

I am very impressed that a young man such as yourself is going about this the right way: researching first, so you can do it correctly. Additionally, you must be a bright young man, as your command of the English language is better than many people twice your age.

I'll make you a deal. If you agree to read all the stickies regarding basic knife construction, and get your self a copy of the $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard and read it cover to cover, taking notes along the way, I will assist you in your first knife. I live in the Seattle area, but I have some extra steel, brass, sand paper, files and things of that nature that I could send you. Recently, a few forum members were kind enough to help me out, so I like to do the same for you.

The kicker is that you have to do your part first.
Click to expand...

I will definately take you up on that offer, I was actually planning on ordering Deerskins into Buckskins from Amazon.com so I just placed an order for both books. Bad news is that the expected delivery date is Dec. 29- Jan. 7, although I guess that will make sure I am well read on the subject and prepared to make this knife.
 
Keep me informed of your research process and we'll work something out. Let's do a virtual handshake. Feel free to e-mail me at anytime as well.

If you have a question and can't find it in the stickies or your book, make sure to post it on here. You tube is also a good place for knife making how to's.

You'll also want to save this link, since non-members can't search Bladeforums. Chances are high that any question you may have has probably been asked before.

BladeForums.com Google Search
 
bjalongi said:
Keep me informed of your research process and we'll work something out. Let's do a virtual handshake. Feel free to e-mail me at anytime as well.

If you have a question and can't find it in the stickies or your book, make sure to post it on here. You tube is also a good place for knife making how to's.

You'll also want to save this link, since non-members can't search Bladeforums. Chances are high that any question you may have has probably been asked before.

BladeForums.com Google Search
Click to expand...


Thats a great thing your doing there. :thumbup:
 
Welcome! May I suggest going with a simple carbon steel. W1/1080/1095/O1 will make a blade that will clean hog/deer sized game and down, with only a simple stropping every once in a while. I would also suggest a drop point, or trailing point in the 4-5" Max range for these duty's, and about 5/32 - 3/16" thick. Fastenal is a local source of knife grade carbon steel. They stock O1 flat stock and have W1 round if you change your plan, and decide to hammer it out. As far as quenching media goes. W1 / 1080 / 1095 will harden in a brine solution. Simply mix in a canister of table salt to a 5 gallon bucket of water, then heat it up to about 100º - 120ºF to quench in. O1/52100/L6 and other oil hardening carbon steels. will require a proper quenching oil such as Parks 50 / AAA, Brownells Toughquench etc. to get a proper quenching speed. Canola/Corn/Hydraulic/ old used engine oil can be used but you may not get as good a result as a proper quench oil would give. Definantly read the stickies then re-read them. They are worth their wieght in gold. You might take up Bjalongi on his offer. These forums are filled with great folks who pay it forward quite a bit. Again Welcome to the Forums and Good Luck

Jason
 
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