Nicholoson File Knife Idea

I.N.F.K · Mar 15, 2013

I found this huge 21" file in my grandma's basement. It belonged to my grandfarther, who passed when I was three. It is somewhat worn out, and I really want to turn it into a knife. Do you folks have any idea's or reccomendation?

As you can see, back when I knew nothing about metals, I tried grinding on it. I quickly found out that it didn't work.

I.N.F.K · Mar 15, 2013

I would like to know how do you keep your design on the blade while grinding out the shape and should I put the edge on before or after hadening the blade; i'm leaning towards after? thanks for your response

- P.S.A

Mink · Mar 15, 2013

Send it to one of BF's own such as GL Drew in the knifemakers section. He just recently turned a farriors rasp into a beautiful chopper.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1048022-Farier-s-Rasp-Chopper

P. McKinley · Mar 15, 2013

PSA - There are many ways of doing this. I spay the steel with Dykem Blue then scribe the outline into the steel using a cardboard template. You could also attach that same template to the steel with spray adhesive.

-Peter

Bo T · Mar 15, 2013

Read this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/907667-How-to-Make-a-Knife-From-a-File

It will give some ideas to start with.

I.N.F.K · Mar 15, 2013

I though about that, but I need to do it. It just wouldn't seem right to pay somebody else to do it.

Hengelo_77 · Mar 16, 2013

It might be a bit to thick to make a good slicer.
Pig sticker comes to mind here

Fletch Helical · Mar 16, 2013

Before you do anything you need to anneal it. You're gonna have a bear of a time trying to take a file as is and making it into a knife, remember a lot of us use things like that to file away steel when we are making a knife so they're pretty tough . Not sure of you're background on knife making but if this is your first spend some time drawing up designs. When you have one or two that you think you like make a prototype out of it. You can use cardboard, wood, basically anything fairly rigid and see how it feels in your hand and how you think it would perform as a knife. A lot of times what looks good on paper doesn't necessarily make a comfortable knife. Once you got it, like others have said you can use a layout fluid and scribe it on there, you can take your template and lay it on there and draw around it with a sharpie, etc. Personally for bar stock I'll take the design and either glue it on the steel if it's on paper, or trace it on there with a sharpie then cut it out on the bandsaw. I tend to "leave the lines" when I do it simply because it's easier to grind/file away the little extra to make it the way I want because I haven't figured out an easy way to add steel back after it's cut or ground off. Once you have the profile cut out read this. Post up pictures when you're done!

Don Nguyen · Mar 16, 2013

Bo T said:
Read this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/907667-How-to-Make-a-Knife-From-a-File

It will give some ideas to start with.

Exactly as Bo says, that thread will give you a ton of info on how to approach it.

I.N.F.K · Mar 16, 2013

So far I have come up with three designs, I will still probably come up with more. I don't plan on starting for another 5 to 6 days.

The cut out is the only one to scale, the other two are just sketching's

This one I pretty much just thought up

I based this one off MoD surival knife; short and thick, a compact chopper.

The handle of this one is pretty similar to an Anza

P. McKinley · Mar 16, 2013

I like #1. But, bring that clip further back to where the seam in the paper. And, replace the handle with that of #2.

tryppyr · Mar 16, 2013

Bring the grind MUCH higher onto the blade... at least halfway up.

12345678910 · Mar 16, 2013

tryppyr said:
Bring the grind MUCH higher onto the blade... at least halfway up.

I agree, I say full height, it's also much easier to manage and hides some sins too.

I.N.F.K · Mar 16, 2013

That would be quite hard for me to manage. I was planning on only using files, I do have a angle grinder though.

12345678910 said:
I agree, I say full height, it's also much easier to manage and hides some sins too.

Fletch Helical · Mar 16, 2013

You can do it all with files. Keep the angle grinder out of the picture. Draw file the bevels.

I.N.F.K · Mar 16, 2013

So after taking some suggestions into consideration, I have come up with this design. This is to scale

Specifications
OAL: 13 3/4"
Blade Lenght: 8 1/2"
Blade Width: 1 1/4"
Cutting Edge: 8"
Hanlde: 5 1/4"

P. McKinley · Mar 17, 2013

Now you're gettin' somewhere. Much better.

Two things:
-I think you'll want a bit more meat to hold on to at the end of the handle, especially being a chopper. Bring the rear contour down to at least even with the front.
-You may find the center swell in the handle to be a bit too "swollen". One grid line(1/4"??) less maybe.

-Peter

I.N.F.K · Mar 17, 2013

Bigblue17 said:
Now you're gettin' somewhere. Much better.

Two things:
-I think you'll want a bit more meat to hold on to at the end of the handle, especially being a chopper. Bring the rear contour down to at least even with the front.
-You may find the center swell in the handle to be a bit too "swollen". One grid line(1/4"??) less maybe.

-Peter

I would have to have some of the handle overlapping the tang then. Since the where the handle begins, the file starts to taper from 1 1/2" to 1".

Don Nguyen · Mar 17, 2013

Perhaps a hidden tang build might work better with the size limitations?

Although, that might make the construction more involved. It's an option though, and there's plenty of material to do the hidden tang.

I.N.F.K · Mar 17, 2013

Don Nguyen said:
Perhaps a hidden tang build might work better with the size limitations?

Although, that might make the construction more involved. It's an option though, and there's plenty of material to do the hidden tang.

Might be possible if I grind it down to an even 1", it would free up my handle design as well.