......nmfbm Makeover......

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 5, 2008

Hey Busse nuts !!!

Well, I knew it was bound to happen ... I finally began working on my NMFBM.. So far it has served me very well and is a blast to use.

Now I need to make it proper and modify it to something more my taste..

I am doing all the work myself on this one..

So far I drilled out the handles, stripped it , and am now in the beginning stages of applying a full hand satin finish..

My main question is ... What type of bolts are best for securing the handle slabs back on the blade.????. I want to stray away from the compression rivets that Busse uses. After throwing the NMFBM a lot the handles began to become severely unaligned. I may also epoxy the slabs on..

Thanks for the help

MY NMFBM in its current state .... I have a lot more work ahead.. :thumbup:

Gerberblades · Nov 5, 2008

You gonna just use sandpaper and your fingers? I found that technique very hard. If you want to save some time and future arthritis

get 80, 200, and 400 sanding disks that attach to a drill.

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 6, 2008

Gerberblades said:
You gonna just use sandpaper and your fingers? I found that technique very hard. If you want to save some time and future arthritis get 80, 200, and 400 sanding disks that attach to a drill.

Oh yea .. . I have all those bases covered ... The belt sander will be used for for re profiling the edge ..

I want to apply a nice hand satin finish using nothing but sandpaper.. My estimate is another 4 hours of work.. I like the look of custom knife makers hand satin finish that goes from tip to handle ie. (Bob Lum) or opposing the factory grind lines. So far I have only used 150 grit to take off the decarb , no more logo either ... Also I plan on retaining the plunge lines of the grind..

Just for now I am drawing a blank on what bolts to use for the handle..

I don't want to order some and then find out they do not fit the Busse handle properly..

Here is my set up ..... I just got a belt sander a few weeks ago..

Gerberblades · Nov 6, 2008

Exactly what I was talking about, bottom left hand corner. (sandpaper disk) How do you like the beltsander? Once I get a house I am thinking about buying one. But I will be starting with a much cheaper knife than a Busse.

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 6, 2008

Gerberblades said:
Exactly what I was talking about, bottom left hand corner. (sandpaper disk) How do you like the beltsander? Once I get a house I am thinking about buying one. But I will be starting with a much cheaper knife than a Busse.

I love the belt sander... Sharpening knives is now just a matter of seconds..

A few weeks ago I gave a FFFBM a few passes and it was shaving sharp in no time. I usually use 150 grit belt , give it a few quick passes and then finish the edge off by hand. I need to get a 600 grit belt and a leather belt b4 I go nuts with this thing..

Yea , I don't recommend starting out with Busses.. I made that mistake with a particular blade. .

soooo .. I am now practicing on blank sheets of steel and such..
If all goes well I think I am going to start making knives for a side profession. I may also be obtaining a CNC machine in the near future..

dobywon · Nov 6, 2008

Watch out Ban and Ducci, UJ is in the shadows!!!!

Looks good so far UJ I think fi you take you time and dont rush it it will turn out nice. Good luck and keep us updated!!

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 6, 2008

dobywon said:
Watch out Ban and Ducci, UJ is in the shadows!!!!

Looks good so far UJ I think fi you take you time and dont rush it it will turn out nice. Good luck and keep us updated!!

LOL , Thanks ..

I am hoping to finish the NMFBM up by early next week. .:thumbup:
Also I am starting to draw out designs for neckers .. Luckily, I have a local hook up for heat treat. Should be interesting.

abchopper · Nov 6, 2008

For the handle bolts I would recommend using stainless steel 5mm countersunk hex (allen) socket head screws (12mm long). The metric countersunk heads (10mm dia) just fit the original countersunk holes on the micarta slabs just perfectly giving a near flat finish rather than the deep holes the pressed rivets leave. Also the 12mm length is perfect so you don't need to trim these. They are standard screws your should be able to buy off the self on a good stainless steel supplier.

To hold the two screws together (one on each side for a rivet hole) I would use the original tube that was drilled out of the handle (provided that you haven't already thrown them away). It's already the right 1/4 inch diameter and it's just the right wall thickness for the inside diameter to match the thread which needs to be cut.

All you need to do is thread the inside of the tube to 5mm metric using a thread tap then trim the old flared ends off which should make it slightly shorter. This shorting in turn should then fit perfectly in between the handle slabs. So in effect you will get a threaded tube with a screw on each end to hold everything together. If you have already thrown the old tube rivets away then you can get the tubes from 'KnifeKits.com'. It will be the standard 1/4 inch tube they sell as Thong Hole
Tubing.

Of course you could use imperial size countersunk screws. You just need to choose the appropriate size screw and thread tap to suit. Do this for the other rivet holes and you should have a very smart looking handle with hex screws.

To finish off I would recommend using Loc-Tight thread fixer to stop the screws from unscrewing off from heavy vibrations that might come about from chopping. I would recommend using the Blue Loc-Tight so that your able to remove them for cleaning or maintenance. Don't use the Red Loc-Tight which is permanent and is very difficult to remove if it is ever possible.

I hope this helps you (or anyone else that may need screw type rivets).
Cheers.

abchopper · Nov 6, 2008

Oh, I forgot to say, if you do decided to go with the screw type rivets, post a picture when you've finished it.

Coupchoux · Nov 6, 2008

FFBM new handle fasteners on Mikey Moto's photostream :

Mikey Moto's photostream : http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeymoto/2334360194/in/photostream/

Soulrack223 · Nov 6, 2008

abchopper said:
For the handle bolts I would recommend using stainless steel 5mm countersunk hex (allen) socket head screws (12mm long). The metric countersunk heads (10mm dia) just fit the original countersunk holes on the micarta slabs just perfectly giving a near flat finish rather than the deep holes the pressed rivets leave. Also the 12mm length is perfect so you don't need to trim these. They are standard screws your should be able to buy off the self on a good stainless steel supplier.

To hold the two screws together (one on each side for a rivet hole) I would use the original tube that was drilled out of the handle (provided that you haven't already thrown them away). It's already the right 1/4 inch diameter and it's just the right wall thickness for the inside diameter to match the thread which needs to be cut.

All you need to do is thread the inside of the tube to 5mm metric using a thread tap then trim the old flared ends off which should make it slightly shorter. This shorting in turn should then fit perfectly in between the handle slabs. So in effect you will get a threaded tube with a screw on each end to hold everything together. If you have already thrown the old tube rivets away then you can get the tubes from 'KnifeKits.com'. It will be the standard 1/4 inch tube they sell as Thong Hole
Tubing.

Of course you could use imperial size countersunk screws. You just need to choose the appropriate size screw and thread tap to suit. Do this for the other rivet holes and you should have a very smart looking handle with hex screws.

To finish off I would recommend using Loc-Tight thread fixer to stop the screws from unscrewing off from heavy vibrations that might come about from chopping. I would recommend using the Blue Loc-Tight so that your able to remove them for cleaning or maintenance. Don't use the Red Loc-Tight which is permanent and is very difficult to remove if it is ever possible.

I hope this helps you (or anyone else that may need screw type rivets).
Cheers.

Awesome post! Thanks for the info!

UJ, you're breaking my heart!

I'mGatMan! · Nov 6, 2008

Yo, OZONE!!!

knife hunter · Nov 6, 2008

looking good Bro.

cant wait to see it finished.

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 6, 2008

Ohhh man .. I really appreciate all the helpful responses !!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks ALL !!!!!!!

Off the topic ... its 12 00 I'm wasted and going to a taping of Judge Mathis in a few hours...
gona bust out crazy dance moves during the taping... yeaaaaaa.. . .

Later folks !!!!

stabber · Nov 6, 2008

Lookin Good uncleJarvis!!:thumbup:

Uncle Timbo · Nov 6, 2008

Hey Uncle Jarvy, nice knife...where's the girls?

rumblebee · Nov 6, 2008

Hillbilly.223 said:
Hey Uncle Jarvy, nice knife...where's the girls?

who do you think he's got workin the belt sander, in bikini's??!!

Send pics, UJ :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

dumdeedum · Nov 6, 2008

Uncle_Jarvis said:
Yea , I don't recommend starting out with Busses.. I made that mistake with a particular blade. . soooo .. I am now practicing on blank sheets of steel and such..
If all goes well I think I am going to start making knives for a side profession. I may also be obtaining a CNC machine in the near future..

Say it isn't so!... well, luckily for you, I run a blade rescue and resuscitation program out here in North Carolina... just mail me that poor injured blade and I'll take care of it...

no, really... and that goes for all you other forumites as well... just mail all of your abused blades to meeee!... also UJ, just make sure not to forget that I called it here first... DIBS on your first blade!!!.... no, seriously... when Uncle's Knives® become ridiculously sought-after, I'm finally not going to be the drooling one sitting in the back, watching while others post pictures of their grail knives...

Uncle_Jarvis · Nov 7, 2008

abchopper said:
For the handle bolts I would recommend using stainless steel 5mm countersunk hex (allen) socket head screws (12mm long). The metric countersunk heads (10mm dia) just fit the original countersunk holes on the micarta slabs just perfectly giving a near flat finish rather than the deep holes the pressed rivets leave. Also the 12mm length is perfect so you don't need to trim these. They are standard screws your should be able to buy off the self on a good stainless steel supplier.

To hold the two screws together (one on each side for a rivet hole) I would use the original tube that was drilled out of the handle (provided that you haven't already thrown them away). It's already the right 1/4 inch diameter and it's just the right wall thickness for the inside diameter to match the thread which needs to be cut.

All you need to do is thread the inside of the tube to 5mm metric using a thread tap then trim the old flared ends off which should make it slightly shorter. This shorting in turn should then fit perfectly in between the handle slabs. So in effect you will get a threaded tube with a screw on each end to hold everything together. If you have already thrown the old tube rivets away then you can get the tubes from 'KnifeKits.com'. It will be the standard 1/4 inch tube they sell as Thong Hole
Tubing.

Of course you could use imperial size countersunk screws. You just need to choose the appropriate size screw and thread tap to suit. Do this for the other rivet holes and you should have a very smart looking handle with hex screws.

To finish off I would recommend using Loc-Tight thread fixer to stop the screws from unscrewing off from heavy vibrations that might come about from chopping. I would recommend using the Blue Loc-Tight so that your able to remove them for cleaning or maintenance. Don't use the Red Loc-Tight which is permanent and is very difficult to remove if it is ever possible.

I hope this helps you (or anyone else that may need screw type rivets).
Cheers.

Wow,, thanks for the great post .. I'm on it !!

abchopper said:
Oh, I forgot to say, if you do decided to go with the screw type rivets, post a picture when you've finished it.

For Sure

Coupchoux said:
FFBM new handle fasteners on Mikey Moto's photostream :

Mikey Moto's photostream : http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeymoto/2334360194/in/photostream/

Very nice ...

Very clean looking FBM

Soulrack223 said:
Awesome post! Thanks for the info!

UJ, you're breaking my heart!

Wait until you see the finished product...

I'mGatMan! said:
Yo, OZONE!!!

Thats a new one .. Thanx Buddy

knife hunter said:
looking good Bro.

cant wait to see it finished.

mee too !

Hillbilly.223 said:
Hey Uncle Jarvy, nice knife...where's the girls?

???? They are in the back room working on som side projects for me

rumblebee said:
who do you think he's got workin the belt sander, in bikini's??!! Send pics, UJ

Thats an Idea !

dumdeedum said:
Say it isn't so!... well, luckily for you, I run a blade rescue and resuscitation program out here in North Carolina... just mail me that poor injured blade and I'll take care of it... no, really... and that goes for all you other forumites as well... just mail all of your abused blades to meeee!... also UJ, just make sure not to forget that I called it here first... DIBS on your first blade!!!.... no, seriously... when Uncle's Knives® become ridiculously sought-after, I'm finally not going to be the drooling one sitting in the back, watching while others post pictures of their grail knives...

Sorry. I ground that blade into INFI coins

Gerberblades · Nov 7, 2008

Do you convex the knives with the belt sander or just keep with the traditional "V"?

Great idea, I was thinking of doing the same thing. Belt sander, Bead Blast cabinet, I would be set.

......nmfbm Makeover......

"Die Hard Hog" Moderator & Dealer