......nmfbm Makeover......

Gerberblades said:
Do you convex the knives with the belt sander or just keep with the traditional "V"?

Great idea, I was thinking of doing the same thing. Belt sander, Bead Blast cabinet, I would be set.
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I have not used the beltsander to convex yet... For the most part I have been trying to perfect the traditional "V" grind ..

The NMFBM will be receiving the "V" grind also... mainly because it will be exposed to extreme abuse.. The zero/convex will not hold up..

Also, I plan on making my own bead blast setup .. Its quite easy.. :thumbup:
 
Here are a few older pics of the NMFBM in question ..

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I'mGatMan! said:
Ozone, man...the dood in your AVY. You HAVE seen Breakin', right?:confused:
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OOOOOOOOh heck naw !!!!

I figured no one here knew about that !!! :):)

Nice !!!! Yea Ozone is the man but his friend Turbo is pretty cool too..

Best part is in the hospital ... LMAO CLASSIC

I still need to see Breakin' 1

There needs to be part III .. I have great ideas ...
 
Uncle Jarvis, I should mention than if your busse has regular handle slabs instead of magnums slabs or has a thinner blade stock of less than 0.25 inch then use 10mm long hex screws instead of the 12mm long ones I recommended earlier. The 10mm long screws are also standard length screws you can buys off the shelf from any good stainless steel suppliers.

I should also add that you can buy the screws in either 304 (or 302) standard grade stainless steel which is perfectly fine or you can get the 316 marine grade stainless steel which is excellent but harder to machine or cut if you need to do so. The marine grade will resist corrosion the best but the 304 is no slouch either. Either one will do fine considering we are dealing with INFI in the middle.

I'm looking forward to seeing your finished knife.

PS: I have actually done this to my busse so it does work...perfectly. The feel without the deep abrasive rivet holes is much more comfortable. (which is a personal preference)

Note: The picture from coupchoux shows pretty much the same thing as I have described except they have used slightly smaller screws which sit slightly deeper in the countersunk holes. The screws I have recommended will sit almost flush flat which feel very nice and they match the original rivet tube for size on thread.

I hope it works for you.
 
UPDATE !!

Well,, I have just about finished up the NMFBM ... . TOTAL TIME SPENT a little over 9 hours of work time....

I am beat ............. I need to clean her up now.. was a bit sloppy with the epoxy :o

Maybe I'll post pics of the near finished product tonight..

also I decided to put a zero/conxex edge on it..
 
Almost done .. I still need to go over the blade with 2000 grit sandpaper and clean off some epoxy from the blade and handle. . No bolts either ... hmmmm ?


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Gerberblades said:
Looks great!! Keep us updated, and get some more pics. :cool:
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Here are 2 more pics...

I decided not to use any bolts . Just a healthy dose of metal/cement epoxy to hold on the handles ..

During the day tomorrow I will take better pics in natural light.. Its very hard to take a proper pic. of this blade otherwise..

ALSO ... REMOVING all the factory grind lines by hand was a chore in a half to say the least ...



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abchopper said:
For the handle bolts I would recommend using stainless steel 5mm countersunk hex (allen) socket head screws (12mm long). The metric countersunk heads (10mm dia) just fit the original countersunk holes on the micarta slabs just perfectly giving a near flat finish rather than the deep holes the pressed rivets leave. Also the 12mm length is perfect so you don't need to trim these. They are standard screws your should be able to buy off the self on a good stainless steel supplier.

To hold the two screws together (one on each side for a rivet hole) I would use the original tube that was drilled out of the handle (provided that you haven't already thrown them away). It's already the right 1/4 inch diameter and it's just the right wall thickness for the inside diameter to match the thread which needs to be cut.

All you need to do is thread the inside of the tube to 5mm metric using a thread tap then trim the old flared ends off which should make it slightly shorter. This shorting in turn should then fit perfectly in between the handle slabs. So in effect you will get a threaded tube with a screw on each end to hold everything together. If you have already thrown the old tube rivets away then you can get the tubes from 'KnifeKits.com'. It will be the standard 1/4 inch tube they sell as Thong Hole
Tubing.

Of course you could use imperial size countersunk screws. You just need to choose the appropriate size screw and thread tap to suit. Do this for the other rivet holes and you should have a very smart looking handle with hex screws.

To finish off I would recommend using Loc-Tight thread fixer to stop the screws from unscrewing off from heavy vibrations that might come about from chopping. I would recommend using the Blue Loc-Tight so that your able to remove them for cleaning or maintenance. Don't use the Red Loc-Tight which is permanent and is very difficult to remove if it is ever possible.

I hope this helps you (or anyone else that may need screw type rivets).
Cheers.
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Coupchoux said:
FFBM new handle fasteners on Mikey Moto's photostream :


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Mikey Moto's photostream : http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeymoto/2334360194/in/photostream/
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Can anyone please give me a link for these hex bolts or something similar?...I am having a hard time finding these particular ones.

thanks
 
Very nice work brtha! ;) I'll see if I can find the thread where i did my FFBM. As I recall there were good leads on the hex bolts.
 
Here is a thread where I cleaned up my FFBM. Towards the later pages you will see links and info. on the bolts/screws in question. I ended up using regular flat head screws from Frys Electronics. Worked perfectly but i think I prefer the hex look. Again, awesome job. :)
 
Uncle_Jarvis said:
Yep ..... things changed . :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: :cool:

As you can see I simply said "I decided to put a zero/convex edge on the blade" That means I "decided" to change things up ... Understand??? :confused:
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I'm curious why you decided that? Too much extra work to re-grind? Figured you could always regrind it after some abuse? Figure thick stock + infi + zero would hold up fine?

Grinds are interesting to me, because I never really figured they mattered very much. And I always thought there were two: Chisel and V. I know a little more now... But I'd be intested in your decision making process so I could be smartened up more!

Looks great by the way! 9 hours? Man...
 
Tyrkon Lawson said:
Very nice work brtha! ;) I'll see if I can find the thread where i did my FFBM. As I recall there were good leads on the hex bolts.
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Tyrkon Lawson said:
Here is a thread where I cleaned up my FFBM. Towards the later pages you will see links and info. on the bolts/screws in question. I ended up using regular flat head screws from Frys Electronics. Worked perfectly but i think I prefer the hex look. Again, awesome job. :)
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Perfect . THANKS Sooooooo much .... I found what I needed , Placed my order... Mcmaster Carr has some good stuff... !!!


sirahren said:
I'm curious why you decided that? Too much extra work to re-grind? Figured you could always regrind it after some abuse? Figure thick stock + infi + zero would hold up fine?

Grinds are interesting to me, because I never really figured they mattered very much. And I always thought there were two: Chisel and V. I know a little more now... But I'd be intested in your decision making process so I could be smartened up more!

Looks great by the way! 9 hours? Man...
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Yea , I gave it more thought. It seems like the V grind gets dull faster that a zero/convex . I found my self touching up the edge very often . On my zero/convex Busses I only need to go over the edge if there is damage. Figured I can always go back to V grind if need be.

9 hours is about right.. Most of the time involved nothing but hand sanding with cloth/mouse pad and sandpaper.. Stripping the thing took over an hour also.. This sage was very difficult to remove..

I'll post better pics later today ...
 
Uncle_Jarvis said:
Perfect . THANKS Sooooooo much .... I found what I needed , Placed my order... Mcmaster Carr has some good stuff... !!!





Yea , I gave it more thought. It seems like the V grind gets dull faster that a zero/convex . I found my self touching up the edge very often . On my zero/convex Busses I only need to go over the edge if there is damage. Figured I can always go back to V grind if need be.

9 hours is about right.. Most of the time involved nothing but hand sanding with cloth/mouse pad and sandpaper.. Stripping the thing took over an hour also.. This sage was very difficult to remove..

I'll post better pics later today ...
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There are thin and thick variations of convex and V grinds. A thicker V would obviously take more abuse than convex and vice versa. But given the same edge thickness the convex is more durable and easier to maintain. This is based on my personal experience. Others may disagree.

I use to sharpen many countless knives on my trusty Edgepro that turn out perfect high polished V grinds. I find that the more acute angled V grinds will take on my many tiny little rolls when used hard. This happens very rarely when I use the same thickness convex edge. Convex edges will obviously also take on little rolls when ground too thin just like any other edge.
 
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Ban said:
There are thin and thick variations of convex and V grinds. A thicker V would obviously take more abuse than convex and vice versa. But given the same edge thickness the convex is more durable and easier to maintain. This is based on my personal experience. Others may disagree.

I use to sharpen many countless knives on my trusty Edgepro that turn out perfect high polished V grinds. I find that the more acute angled V grinds will take on my many tiny little rolls when used hard. This happens very rarely when I use the same thickness convex edge. Convex edges will obviously also take on little rolls when ground too thin just like any other edge.
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Sweet ... thanks for the insight Ban !!! :thumbup:
 
OK .. .. .

Here are more clear pics of the current state of my NMFBM ... Its been fun .. :) I still need bolts. They are on order .. :thumbup:

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It is looking great UJ. I can see the high gloss polish finish on the surface of the whole blade :thumbup:
 
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