NMFSHCG disappointment OR i don't know how to use my NMFSHCG

S

sab13

Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
177
so i got my NMFSHCG about three month ago, but a week after reciving it i had to go through a shoulder surgery so i couldn't really use it.
last week with a shoulder still not fully recovered i desided it was time to use it, so i went to the woods to have a small fire.
i found a tree, about 4 inch thick, that was all dried out and figured i might choop it up a bit, out goes my NMFSHCG and start hiting it, but had a very hard time.
the first few blows left only small marks and by the time i cut through the tree my hand was hurting, i had a bloody blister and there was the knifes adge was a bit bent.

so i figure:
1. the NMFSHCG is not as strong as people say it is.
2. dry trees are too hard to cut with a knife
3. i should learn how to choop cause my skills aint so good

what do you think?


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Any tree that is seasoned is going to be tough to cut. Try hammering a nail into seasoned oak :eek: As for grip, I tend to choke back on the handle myself, but I haven't had to do any big chopping with it, just smaller tree clearing.
 
The edge shouldn't have bent, I'd contact the shop. Unfortunately it's almost Blade time, but I'd imagine there's someone around to tell you to send it in. I chop at a dry oak log to rehab my shoulders from an accident and surgery and I've had two similar experiences with edges bending. Mine weren't one solid bend on either, it looked more like a wave with two or three arches. In both cases I sent the blades (one Busse, one Scrapyard) back to the shop and they replaced them, no questions asked.

I do a lot of chopping with many different Busse+kin blades and I've never had a catastrophic failure, cracks or chips in spite of many awkward hits and even striking buried nails in the log. My guess is the waffling/bending of the edge is what impact steels do instead of breaking, but I'm no scientist, I just like chopping wood with knives.
 
Machined grips will almost always give an ungloved hand blisters that's why I prefer smooth, hand shaped myself. And I have to to second, that tree looks pretty aged. It's hard to tell from the pics, but you don't want to chop straight down, you always want to attack at an angle ( just a tip, in case)
 
As KAAK stated, seasoned wood is going to be more difficult to chop than, say, a green tree. However, I don't think the edge should have rolled. I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the edge. I'd also recommend calling Busse directly to voice your concerns.

I think some people buy a Busse expecting it to be a magical steel with lightsaber properties. I'm not suggesting that's the case with the OP, just stating that sometimes it can be disappointing when you find out your new Lexus doesn't drive much different than your old Accord. But once you really spend some time with it you will begin to appreciate the quality, craftsmanship, and attention to detail that the maker put into it.
 
I agree with KnifeaddictAK it's either seasoned or water logged wood. I live by a big river and we get a lot of wood that has been in the water for a long time and even after it dries out it's tough as nails to chop. As for my experience with the NMFSH it's a very powerful chopper. I've cut through logs 8" around in minutes. As for the edge bending I'd talk to the shop. Maybe it escaped the heat treat oven :eek: or the edge was sharpened too thin. Either way they'll take care of you.

Good luck I hope you get to experience what a fine well balanced knife the CGNMFSH really is.

PS don't tell Jerry :eek: but I throw mine to and it's very well balanced.
 
Try not holding it with a death grip. I tend to hold a knife or axe with a somewhat loose grip and let the weight and momentum of the tool do the job.
 
Like the others said definately contact the shop about the edge. I can't relate to the other problems you've described though. I've done a ton of chopping on all sorts of wood since I've had mine and I've found it to be a great chopper. I personally don't make it a habit to wear gloves for anything if I don't have to. My NMFSH has machined grips and my longest chop session has been off and on for about 2 hours while clearing small to medium brush/downed trees. During that time I haven't gotten any blisters.

I hope you make a good recovery with your shoulder and get your NMFSH straightened out I've found it to be a pleasure to use. :thumbup:
 
I have had both a sharp ax and a sharp Battle Mistress bounce off hard wood on the first few chops.
As mentioned a few posts above, angle of attack is very important.
Try to steel the edge straight and get a glove. Or man hands.:D..........Kidding!
 
Welcome!:)

Most has been covered above so the only thing I see that could have been a culprit is there is nothing under the tree where you were chopping which could have allowed a lot of the force to dissipate into a bouncing object.

I think if you placed another log underneath the object you were trying to cut this would have made your efforts a lot more efficient.
 
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
 
Van Brain Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
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Yes, because micarta and G-10 suck so much on a user knife, that's why Busse is the only company that uses it.

As for proper heat treat 5160, I have a big ass chunk of Bill Siegel 5160 and have chopped somethings that don't want to be chopped, I've also have split a ton of wood in my day with a maul, same story, some wood just don't want to be chopped. Oh wait, the Siegel has a G-10 handle, piss, that's why it doesn't chop. If only Bill would have used horse hooves or whale condoms, those are the magical handle materials for chopping
 
Van Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
Click to expand...

Hey troll nice to see ya again. Expected to see you in this thread up to the same old crap :thumbdn:
Would be interested in reading all about your extensive experience with busse and kin. Judging by your posts you have LOTS of experience. Please do tell.
 
micarta is great, just not when its machined to be uncomfortable. I own and have used busse choppers nd other makers so I have experience with them. And way to name call and ignore my point.
 
knife hunter said:
Welcome!:)

Most has been covered above so the only thing I see that could have been a culprit is there is nothing under the tree where you were chopping which could have allowed a lot of the force to dissipate into a bouncing object.

I think if you placed another log underneath the object you were trying to cut this would have made your efforts a lot more efficient.
Click to expand...

What he said.
 
Van Damage said:
micarta is great, just not when its machined to be uncomfortable. I own and have used busse choppers nd other makers so I have experience with them. And way to name call and ignore my point.
Click to expand...

Van Damage said:
Never said anything about the handle material bein bad, But whatever makes you feel better.
Click to expand...

Well here's my point. Go to the Randall forum and say something bad about their knives, see how they react
 
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