NMFSHCG disappointment OR i don't know how to use my NMFSHCG

I don't care for many things but I do not troll around through the makers forums spouting off about how I do not like them. I could understand complaining about something and giving some ideas on how to improve on it maybe but not stuff like this.
 
Van Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
Click to expand...



Van Damage said:
micarta is great, just not when its machined to be uncomfortable. I own and have used busse choppers nd other makers so I have experience with them. And way to name call and ignore my point.
Click to expand...

Van Damage said:
Ive never bought a busse because they are too expensive for the me and most knife people. Ive used them and wouldnt pay such an inredible amount if I could. I do own swamprat and scrapyard knives because they are worth the money. Just dont like busse prices and hype, then the excuses and fanboyism. If i get infracted so should others for insults. im just telling the truth and everyone blows up. I know most people arnt looking for truth.
Click to expand...

HA! One of these things is not like the others.................one of these things does not belong...............can you tell me which of these things is not like the others by the time I finish this song (Color coded for fun!).



Well, that did not take long.
 
Last edited:
I would also recommend taking the shoulders off of the factory edge.
Reprofiling makes a huge difference.
Van damage sucks quite a bit.
 
This is a great post, well presented and very helpful I think to the OP. I should add mention that I would advise against the wearing of gloves, as they just take space and can be very slippery. Blisters are just a normal part of doing outdoors work, you get them and they callouse over, and then you don't need gloves.


PeterPHWS said:
Hi Sal, welcome to Busse :thumbup:

The thing with Busse's is that you need to put in a stint like you did to realise what you want from the knife and how best to achieve it.

The grips you get from the factory can come with some deep patterns. Perhaps designed for blood work or other slippery encounters but for chopping a smooth grip works best.

I do a lot of chopping and prefer to smooth the grip rather than wear gloves. What I do is use a triangular shaped sander to take the rough edges off the grip so that I retain a uniform pattern but the feel of the grip "in hand" is smooth. I did this on a TTKZ and the pic of the gear I used is below.



Try and do this outside and allow for prevailing wind as the dust off the grips you don't want in your lungs. Use a mask if this helps.

Once you have the handle where it works for you the next thing is the edge. I sharpen my Busse's on a belt sander and take them to a 15 degree either side back bevel and 20 degree primary bevel and convex the two into a seemless curve. This edge works best on wood and I have tried many options before recommending this.

If the edge is right and the grips are right you can take down trees and section the logs no problem.

Here are a group of logs I sectioned during a review of some knives.



When chopping through the logs it is important to give yourself a "V" cut which is as wide as the log is deep. This then enables you to strike the wood at 45 degrees with the knife which will bite the deepest and enable you to continue at this angle all the way through.



If you start with a cut too narrow you will run out of width as you go deeper and then the removal of wood with each chop is a lot less because you are going too vertical.

If you get the angle of the chop right and your edge is good the depth you can get with the right Busse is considerable.



Go too steep on the angle such as the photo below will take a lot more time to cut through the log.



Take a wider cut and the job is a lot easier -



With the right Busse you can go through some thick wood with just a few chops once the technique is practised.



Try straddling the log and chopping either side for speed - but be careful on where you place yor feet - always make sure your swings are between your feet and watch out for tiredness and richocets off the log.



I cannot over emphasise being careful on how you swing and foot placement enough ! The shorter the knife the more you are likely to follow through and not hit dirt!

Once you get the hang of it though it is easy to get efficient at preparing wood for the fire.

Click to expand...
 
Van Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
Click to expand...
He must be the one who's on a mission of salvation! Gonna save us INFIITES!!! Preaching to us that Busse is taking our money. And giving us Pagan blades as false Idols!

Look Apostle Van...No over here, no, no, and no again, your military left...Okay! Your right in principal that other steels are good too. And then...All blather man! If you don't like Busse knives, don't like them. I don't think Jerry Busse is going to make you buy his knives. Relax! Goosfraba, Goosfraba. Besides everyone knows your wrong...Just saying :)
 
Boy, I have been sleeping and watching TV all day and LOOK what I've missed!!!!!!
OP, Me personally what I have found that works has I think been covered between the flaming (nevermind) uh ok subject at hand. Convex edge for cutting dried/seasoned woods. V-Grinds for green woods and the like.

Now gloves, I use Atlas Fit gloves all summer when working wood. They have a rubber coating on them like the Mudder Grips on some SYKW blades. Cloth back so your hand breaths, but I don't care who you are if your out bucking up season spruce bare handed it is going to slice you up. I have drawn blood many time reaching down through limbs cause I would drop something, Chainsaw file, glasses whatever. Using deer, calf or goat and you hands will sweat like a big dog. You need air, but like I said there is nothing wrong with gloves. I really like them on my Machine Cut G-10 cause it grips like a mean MOFO. One other point that was already made I am going to reiterate and that is don't get a death grip on the hilt. Use the weight to your advatage.

Enjoy Bro, it's all a learning curve for YOU and what works. Some use gloves, some don't, V-Gring vs Convex, it's all good just play with and don't give up. I'm 56 and use and ax or chainsaw most of the time. But I do love sitting around a fire pulling up a round and then batoning sticks, small rounds and just relaxing. At night time screw cutting anything, throw it in the fire and call it good:D
 
tdk1122 said:
He must be the one who's on a mission of salvation! Gonna save us INFIITES!!! Preaching to us that Busse is taking our money. And giving us Pagan blades as false Idols!

Look Apostle Van...No over here, no, no, and no again, your military left...Okay! Your right in principal that other steels are good too. And then...All blather man! If you don't like Busse knives, don't like them. I don't think Jerry Busse is going to make you buy his knives. Relax! Goosfraba, Goosfraba. Besides everyone knows your wrong...Just saying :)
Click to expand...

INFIdels! He's gonna save us infidels! LOL, get it right!! ;) :D:D :)
.................................................

Gee, I step out for a couple of hours and BAM! ...Trevor gets it done right. ;):thumbup:
Thank you, T. :):)
 
A knife is a knife, and all knives are limited in some way in chopping power. Hard wood can be tough on the hands and time-consuming no matter what knife you use. I can tell you I have chopped a downed and frozen 9 inch diameter log in -13 degrees F with my Busse CGFBM with no changes to edge at all. The thing was shaving sharp afterwards, and I was dumbstruck. My becker Bk 9 chopped the same log and had some very small dents near the curve of the blade. Im not making this up either. I was literally in awe at INFI's edge retention even after hearing about how it's more about toughness than wear resistance. Dont give up man!
 
sab13,
It seems that everything has been covered throughout this thread. But would I would like to add as a newbie. Is you bought a Busse and behind that is a great company with awesome customer service and a warranty that is second to none. If your knife has suffered some damage from showing it some love or there is a problem, they are behind you and you are covered. This along with all the loyal customers who gladly give intelligent advice, offer help when asked and are just really nice people who share a love of Busse/Kin knives are reasons why we buy these fine blades. Their awesome design, looks and performance doesn't hurt either :)
If you would please post an update to this and a fast and speedy recovery for that shoulder !
 
Aside from the grumpy poster :p there's a lot of good info here.

Edge angle is a huge factor in how deep a knife bites into the wood. The type and thinness of the secondary grind is also a factor.

A good sharpening, take some steel off there, does amazing things. Quite a few threads on here about edge retention being bad till its sharpened, something about the factory edge. Once you get some steel wiped off it becomes a different knife.
 
thank you all

i got some very good info here, and now i just need to go and use it :D

the knife is better now, i did some stroping on it, the bent dosen't look so bad now (i dont think i can take it's picture)

anyway i couldn't send it in - the shipping alone will be too much (international...), and if the blade will end up braking (doubtful)- i will send it then.

i guess, as some said, the knife was too sharp (beef's edge) for this kind of wood + my bad technique is the cause for my questions, now at least i know what to do.

thanks
 
Good advice from many experienced users. Late to the party here, but I see a couple of things...

1) From the span of surface area you were striking and the interior marks on the faces of the cut limbs, it looks like you may have been striking the wood too straight-on. Especially on hard, seasoned wood, avoid striking the surface at anything close to 90 degrees. Try hitting at more of an angle to the surface, making a wider V from the surface down to the bottom of the cut. Also, on very hard wood, once you've established a notch you can try moving your striking point around to the side where the notch meets the surface and strike there, rather than continuing to strike the same plane. This lets the blade break larger chunks from the sides of the cut, where the wood is no longer supported.

2) Some good observations here about using gloves. I would add this...

With smooth micarta or G10 slabs as stated previously above, the handle can slip in a leather glove and bare hands will give you more control. However, with machined slabs, the surface texture bites on the leather and makes for a very solid grip in my experience. Even more secure are gloves with rubberized palms as mentioned by RussMo. I can't use machine-textured grips for heavy chopping with my bare hands without raising blisters, but with gloves those handles are comfortable and secure. At the same time, I can't use smooth micarta/G10 with leather gloves without dangerous slipping and loss of control.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top