NMFSHCG disappointment OR i don't know how to use my NMFSHCG

M67 said:
Yes, because micarta and G-10 suck so much on a user knife, that's why Busse is the only company that uses it.

As for proper heat treat 5160, I have a big ass chunk of Bill Siegel 5160 and have chopped somethings that don't want to be chopped, I've also have split a ton of wood in my day with a maul, same story, some wood just don't want to be chopped. Oh wait, the Siegel has a G-10 handle, piss, that's why it doesn't chop. If only Bill would have used horse hooves or whale condoms, those are the magical handle materials for chopping
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Unicorn horns are super magical too. ;)
 
Van Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
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Your history of posts seem focused on bashing respected manufacturers......not cool.
 
To the OP, I would suggest that you try wearing gloves when you are chopping wood.
Also, I have come to the conclusion that chopping wood with any knife is more strenuous of an exercise than it may appear to the casual observer.
 
Van Damage said:
That sucks man, somtimes you get lemons but my expeirence is busse and kin are like randall in you are not really getting much performance gain over other quality tools just looks. They are more for collectors with there abrassive handles and rediculous geometry. Its good steel just not all its cracked up to be or worth the money jerry demands for it. Proper heated 5160 and other working steels will serve you better as would a well designed handle.
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I doubt you've ever bothered buying one. Your just hating from the outfield. Oh, and if you haven't received notice of your infraction yet. Check your pm.

Keep it up and you will be gone.
 
Last fall a tree fell in my yard. This gave me the opportunity to test some some of my choppers. I was impressed with my NMFBM and B11, but when I tried my Sniper Hawk, it just bounced off the wood. The edge felt sharp, but wouldn't cut through the bark. After I cleaned the up, I tried cutting paper with it. It sliced like a razor. I find that the blades that I convex and polish, chop much better than Busse's flat ground edges. To be fair, Busse's convex edges chop like crazy also.
If the edge is rolling, contact Busse. I'm sure they will take care of it.
 
Hi Sal, welcome to Busse :thumbup:

The thing with Busse's is that you need to put in a stint like you did to realise what you want from the knife and how best to achieve it.

The grips you get from the factory can come with some deep patterns. Perhaps designed for blood work or other slippery encounters but for chopping a smooth grip works best.

I do a lot of chopping and prefer to smooth the grip rather than wear gloves. What I do is use a triangular shaped sander to take the rough edges off the grip so that I retain a uniform pattern but the feel of the grip "in hand" is smooth. I did this on a TTKZ and the pic of the gear I used is below.



Try and do this outside and allow for prevailing wind as the dust off the grips you don't want in your lungs. Use a mask if this helps.

Once you have the handle where it works for you the next thing is the edge. I sharpen my Busse's on a belt sander and take them to a 15 degree either side back bevel and 20 degree primary bevel and convex the two into a seemless curve. This edge works best on wood and I have tried many options before recommending this.

If the edge is right and the grips are right you can take down trees and section the logs no problem.

Here are a group of logs I sectioned during a review of some knives.



When chopping through the logs it is important to give yourself a "V" cut which is as wide as the log is deep. This then enables you to strike the wood at 45 degrees with the knife which will bite the deepest and enable you to continue at this angle all the way through.



If you start with a cut too narrow you will run out of width as you go deeper and then the removal of wood with each chop is a lot less because you are going too vertical.

If you get the angle of the chop right and your edge is good the depth you can get with the right Busse is considerable.



Go too steep on the angle such as the photo below will take a lot more time to cut through the log.



Take a wider cut and the job is a lot easier -



With the right Busse you can go through some thick wood with just a few chops once the technique is practised.



Try straddling the log and chopping either side for speed - but be careful on where you place yor feet - always make sure your swings are between your feet and watch out for tiredness and richocets off the log.



I cannot over emphasise being careful on how you swing and foot placement enough ! The shorter the knife the more you are likely to follow through and not hit dirt!

Once you get the hang of it though it is easy to get efficient at preparing wood for the fire.

 
Ive never bought a busse because they are too expensive for the me and most knife people. Ive used them and wouldnt pay such an inredible amount if I could. I do own swamprat and scrapyard knives because they are worth the money. Just dont like busse prices and hype, then the excuses and fanboyism. If i get infracted so should others for insults. im just telling the truth and everyone blows up. I know most people arnt looking for truth.
 
Van Damage said:
Ive never bought a busse because they are too expensive for the me and most knife people. Ive used them and wouldnt pay such an inredible amount if I could. I do own swamprat and scrapyard knives because they are worth the money. Just dont like busse prices and hype, then the excuses and fanboyism. If i get infracted so should others for insults. im just telling the truth and everyone blows up. I know most people arnt looking for truth.
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QFP.

KH has already told you what will happen if you keep trolling this room.
It wasn't that log ago you did this same thing, and now you're back today. If you don't like them I don't see why you would come here to troll.
 
There is nothing wrong with having opinions - Swamprat and Scrapyard do great knives. I have a DFLE which is a long time favourite and my Camp Tramp is my best power to weight mid size knife.

At the same time though there is nothing wrong with Busse's - you get a bit more and pay a bit more - they're all good:thumbup:
 
Van Damage,
You were warned what would happen if you continued to troll here. If you end up infracted again, it's your own fault.
You will now leave this forum and not come back. You will post here no more at all. If you do, you likely won't need to worry about infractions or posting or anything else.
Consider this your final warning.
 
Van Damage said:
Ive never bought a busse because they are too expensive for the me and most knife people. Ive used them and wouldnt pay such an inredible amount if I could. I do own swamprat and scrapyard knives because they are worth the money. Just dont like busse prices and hype, then the excuses and fanboyism. If i get infracted so should others for insults. im just telling the truth and everyone blows up. I know most people arnt looking for truth.
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So, you are a liar too. Since you said you had owned them previously and said you spoke from experience. Now, no one cares.
 
BTW, to the OP. All suggestions (other than the obvious) are good. Try what you want from them, but keep in mind that the blade is thick enough to reprofile to your satisfaction. Sometimes I need to do that anyhow.
 
Van Damage said:
Ive never bought a busse because they are too expensive for the me and most knife people.
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Were the ones you own gifts?

Karda,
Please let him post again... just to answer this question.
I gotta hear this.
 
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Grab a pic of the edge. I would like to see it.

I have had a few Busse choppers. FBMLE bit the deepest out of my big coppers. Wish I still had my customized FBMLE (hand shaped mags, clip added, and sharpened, all work by Bill Siegle). Then I convexed the edge and it was even beastlier.

I prefer a convex edge. Many of my Busse needed edge refinement to be where I liked them. The only edge damage I had with Infi was caused by other steel, stones, and heavy glass contact.

I have occasionally found small stones by accident in trees also. My edge damage, far and away, has come from hitting stones in the ground, when chopping trees and branches close to the ground.



As to blisters from the handle, I do prefer hand shaped on choppers. I like more texture on smaller knives like the BAD, GW, SS, etc, because I am not exerting as much force or torque on them.


Chopping wood can be a funny thing.

I have encountered pieces that were so hard, that 30 hits with a maul just creased the surface (even chopping with the grain!) I found one piece, with fat wood in the center that was so hard, I could not start a wedge or do much with my maul.

I was able to get the fat wood out with FBMLE! No edge damage. My old Pop saw me with the huge baton and the FBMLE and was sure I would break it!


Chopping cross grain on old hard wood is also funny. If the log has give, it will act as a shock absorber and you will have a hard time making progress.

Looks like you made it through even with a bum shoulder, and factory edge (they tend to be too obtuse for my uses). But, I can sharpen, and change the edge angle to suit my specific needs (I convex mine).
 
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